larrydressler
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Posts posted by larrydressler
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<p>Also check your scanner glass, Both sides. I had to take mine apart and clean the glass. And using ICE is not cheating. It is used in large batch industrial and it is a handy little Godsend for the home hobbyist.</p>
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<p>Yep, Dark Bag and a daylight tank. Chems in brown jugs I found at the recycle center for free. I even do C-41 in my kitchen sink. A good resource for all things Photo that is below most others in Cost is the FPP store.<br>
They are staffed by volunteers and sell cheap. Also a small selection of new and used oddball cameras there.<br>
http://filmphotographyproject.com/store <br>
Cameras.<br>
http://filmphotographyproject.com/store/cameras/film-cameras</p>
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<p>B&H also they are in NYC but hey everyone ships.<br>
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/browse/Cameras-Photo-Gear/ci/2871/N/4294247179</p>
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<p>You are welcome Simon. I am glad we could be of help.</p>
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<p>Yes you can still save them. As for Fixer You will get 100 different answers. So just go with what the manufacturer says. I also tend to fix a little longer than suggested and I have never had a problem.</p>
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<p>Incomplete fixing. Refix them with more agitation or get new fixer.</p>
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<p>This works fine for me. The Blix can be a pain because it gasses so when I use the blix I don't put the lid on and invert I just use the twizzle stick. As for the liquid kits I have received them already dead but never with powder kits. I prefer separate Bleach and fix but on a hobbyist's budget the Blix kits are fine.<br>
This is the kit I use.<br>
http://filmphotographyproject.com/store/unicolor-c-41-development-kit-1-liter-kit</p>
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<p>Use it or lose it I say.</p>
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<p>Well it looks like the numbers on the paper bled through. This can sometimes happen if the film get damp like in San Francisco fog.</p>
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<p>AGFA has not made any film since 2004. The Film production folded. Some older emulsions are still being made at a Belgian plant and sold under the Rollei and Lomo names. The Agfa sold today is a marketing name for Loupis.</p>
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<p>The best light meter in the world is only as good as the operator.</p>
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<p>Look at the negatives.... </p>
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<p>Looks like lint and fibers. If they are embedded in the film it is from drying them in a dirty area. That or your stabilizer is full of crud. Filter all the chems and try to dry the film in a dust free area. I will run the shower in my bathroom for a little then hang the film in there to dry.</p>
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<p>Where have you seen APS film listed for sale? </p>
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<p>Glen<br>
The AGFA films now being sold are made by others and rebadged. Their E6 films are mostly made by Fuji.</p>
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<p>hid=hit it was a one button correction.</p>
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<p>My bet there is incomplete Bleach/fixing. Blix.</p>
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<p>Glen. I believe the OP is using an improper term. Most likely they mean low contrast or unsaturated.</p>
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<p>Could we see an example of the negatives? Judging from a machine print is hard. My initial guess was under exposed and the scanner tried to pull out detail.</p>
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<p>Don't push it. Shoot at Box speed develop it normal Look up Schwarzschild effect. Acros 100 is one of the better films for this type of photography.</p>
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<p> Lex and I are Brothers so it is thank you from me at least.</p>
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<p>All those can be fixed in Post Lex. But yes getting the flash almost directly over the lens is a must.<br>
Here is a link to the camera he used.<br>
http://vintagecameralab.com/wp-content/uploads/polaroid-big-shot_021.jpg<br>
<img src="http://vintagecameralab.com/wp-content/uploads/polaroid-big-shot_021.jpg" alt="" width="980" height="600" /></p>
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<p>Yes Lex I have one of those I put a frosted piece of plastic behind it for a more even fall off. I got bot at a $ store.</p>
Favorite online resources for serviced vintage cameras?
in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
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