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chris_markiewicz

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Posts posted by chris_markiewicz

  1. Hello. I recently took some scans (Nikon Coolscan V -> Photoshop CS -> JPEG) to

    my local photo store and requested prints. They printed them, and they came out

    fine, but the tech noted that my image files were hard to work with. She said

    they had a strong magenta cast that was hard to remove - and suggested that I

    set my Photoshop to sRGB - because that's what they use.

     

    First, I freely admit to knowing little about Photoshop. Now, my questions.

     

    1) Does that sound right? RGB vs sRGB would cause the magenta cast?

     

    2) How do I change? I went into Photoshop, then to Image|Mode|ConvertToProfile.

    But there I see a bunch of options, and I'm not sure which I want. I see:

    1) sRGB61966....

    2) e-sRGB

    3) a Nikon sRGB also is floating around, but not on this particular menu.

     

    Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Chris

  2. personally, i don't consider the advantages of one over the other. i use film because i love the whole process - choosing the appropriate film, shooting, developing, printing, etc. for me, it's as much about the process as it is the final image. and the digital process doesn't interest me as much. i always think people get too hung-up on which one is "better."<div>00G1I3-29381184.jpg.8e637345c4cc5357582b982c1a82f7b9.jpg</div>
  3. hello. just finished a roll of tmax 3200. generally, i use tri-x,

    and the darkroom that i use (local community college) uses d-76

    (stock) which i dilute 1+1.

     

    i've done a bunch of reading in this forum, and the general concensus

    is that i should not use d-76 with tmax 3200. although there are a

    handful of posts that say that they get very good results with it. my

    first question - what can i expect? what are the bad results that

    most people talk about?

     

    second question - the massive dev chart lists tmax 3200 with d-76 -

    but only the stock solution. if i'm going to try this, should i use

    stock and their time, or should i find a time for 1+1?

     

    thrid question. i plan to build my own darkroom as soon as i move

    (mid-may), and i plan to use hc-110 as my general purpose developer.

    would hc-110 be a better choice for tmax 3200?

     

    thanks for your time.

    chris<div>00FneQ-29061884.jpg.370a19299399240b9326cf2a9d19721a.jpg</div>

  4. i do website stuff for one of the local photo shops - and i get paid

    in merchandise/services (free/discounted film, paper, etc). today he

    gave me an mb-15 and a "focusing screen type e" - both for my f100

    (both have been in the case for a while - nobody is buying). i'm

    familiar with the mb-15 - but what's up with the focusing screen? is

    it an improvement over the one that is currently in my camera? or is

    it just a replacement?

     

    thanks for your time.

    chris

  5. hello. i just recently started developing/printing my own stuff as well - and i absoltely love it. funny - i'd read so many posts about how you have so much more control and you can do so many different things - especially in the printing process. i always thought these claims were at least slightly exaggerated. but from my first prints - i was amazed. all of a sudden, my blacks are black, my whites are white, and my prints and no longer dull, flat and grey.

    chris

  6. hello. i've just started developing/printing at the local community college. i'm moving to a new house shortly, and i'll be building a darkroom. in class, we use tri-x and d-76 (1:1). for my home darkroom, i planned to use hc-110 and tri-x. but i've seen a bunch of "don't use hc-110 with tri-x" in this post. can anyone elaborate? people just don't like the results very much?

    thanks

    chris

  7. in january i signed up for a class at the local community college so that i could learn b&w dev and printing (and use their darkroom). i think it's just fantastic. like a previous poster, digital is fine, i'm just not into it. for me, it's as much of a journey as it is a destination. just bought a new house with space for a darkroom - VERY excited about that. i could spend all day in the darkroom printing.

     

    attached is a scan from the frist roll i developed. very original - candid of a friend's baby.<div>00FPhm-28435984.jpg.e85e0f59808de032f15d1d096a68a2ca.jpg</div>

  8. hello. i'm heading to northern california (bay area) in may of 2006

    with my girlfriend. i'll be spending a few days with a relative

    (sunnyvale), a few days in monterey, and i'm trying to pick one other

    spot. looking for a place with a few bed and breakfasts to choose

    from, as well as a lot of options for photography (and obviously

    something that the gf would like).

     

    i know this question is much too open - you don't know what i want to

    shoot and you don't know my gf. but i don't have any very specific

    thoughts about it. fine with photographing nature, cities/towns,

    landscapes, whatever. ideally it would be within two hours of the

    sunnyvale area.

     

    shooting mostly b/w 35mm - although i'll have color too if it's

    appropriate.

     

    thanks for your time.

    chris

  9. i'm sure someone will prove me wrong, but i can't imagine that anyone ever made a ttl tlr. one of the many cool things about a tlr is that there's no mirror in front of the film (so no mirror slap/shake/noise). in order to have a ttl meter, i would think some mirror assembly would be required.

     

    chris

  10. hello. i'm looking at bronica lenses on ebay. there's a significant

    difference in price between the ps (the newer lenses) and all others

    (the s, specifically). i did some research and learned that the

    coating on the new lenses is better. but other than that i didn't

    find much. am i going to notice much of a difference if i get one

    instead of the other? i'm trying to determine if the newer lenses are

    worth the difference in price. (i'm not a professional or anything,

    just someone that likes taking pictures.)

     

    thanks

    chris

  11. Hello Scott. I have a tlr - and the WLF does take some getting used to - or at least it did for me. If I just stare at the finder, I always seem to move the camera in the wrong direction when I'm trying to compose. But that just means that it takes and extra couple of seconds - not usually an issue. Also, the WLF screen is generally not as bright as the image through a prism. But it really doesn't cause me any problems - like anything else, it's just a matter of getting used to it.

     

    chris

  12. Please make some comments about the SQ after you've shot a bit with it. I'm debating about buying one myself (see adjacent thread) and I'm looking for comments about how it is to handhold. Does your SQ have the speedgrip?

     

    thanks

    chris

  13. hello. i shoot mostly 35mm - i also have a tlr which i'm beginning to

    use more since i finally have access to a b&w darkroom. now i'm

    debating about picking up a medium format slr. i'm very happy with

    the square format, but i suppose i'm flexible there. one requirement

    is that i be able to handhold it - for reasonable situations. i've

    read through old threads on this forum and have seen mixed reviews.

    so i guessing i'm just look for a few more mixed reviews. the bronica

    is attractive to me because is rated well, but seems significantly

    less expensive than a comparable hasselblad - or say a pentax 67 (not

    square, obviously).

     

    so i'm sorry for the repeat and thanks for the feedback.

     

    chris

  14. agreed - i always chuckle when i see people claim that you can't get a decent photo without the finest camera/lens combination that money can buy. while an expensive camera/lens might make a great photo slightly better, i don't think it has much to do with making the great photo in the first place. (although that may just be sour grapes on my part...)

    chris<div>00Ee8z-27166584.jpg.fb25d3d41d6044f7012761e139f401cf.jpg</div>

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