chris_markiewicz

Hello. I recently developed a roll (35mm) of tri-x at 1600 in hc-110. i used dilution h, 68 degrees, 19 minutes. inversions for the first 30 seconds or so, then a few inversions every couple of minutes. The results were excellent. By contrast, I did a roll of tmax 3200 a few days later in hc-110. i've printed a shot from each roll to 8x10. the grain is much smaller with the tri-x, which was surprising to me. (In fairness, it may be that my dev time for tmax 3200 is off, i have to experiment a bit).

chris

i agree with conrad. the only reason i have a wet darkroom is because i absolutely love working in a darkroom. if you don't love it, you're never going to do it, so i'd say go digital. but if you have a strong desire to do a wet darkroom, then go for it. it's not a particularly low-maintenance hobby, but if you have space, and once you have everything you need, it's not that big of a deal to develop and print.

chris

hello. i just developed tri-x at 1600 in hc-110 dilution H at 68F the other night (Tuesday, to be specific). Unfortunately I have only developed so far - haven't tried printing yet - so i can only give you so much advice. I used a time of 19 minutes. The negatives look good (if anything maybe slightly overdeveloped, but as i said, i haven't printed ye). So i'd guess that dil B for 16 minutes will be very overdeveloped.

 

i have a few more rolls to develop (of tri-x at 1600), but i'm going to wait until i do some printing before i decide to stick with 19 minutes, or maybe try 18 next time.

 

i typically shoot tri-x at 400 and develop in dil H for 11 minutes (68F), so i came to 19 minutes by adding 25% twice, then throwing in some extra time for no good reason.

 

agitation - ennh, i'm horribly unscientific with agitation...i generally do three inversions every two minutes, sometimes with an extra throw in because hc-110 is so heavy. i want to make sure it stays mixed.

 

hope this helps.

chris

another vote for dilution H - at just a few mL per roll of film, it's very economical. very happy with the stuff so far. (sorry i can't answer you question, but i wanted to throw in my 2 cents...)

chris

Hello. I am going to develop some tmax 3200 and some tri-x (shot at 1600) in

hc-110. I typically use dilution H, but I can only find times for dilution B,

so I'll go with that for now. I'm hoping someone can confirm the times that

I've found.

 

tmax3200 in hc-110 (b) at 68 deg - both kodak and massive dev say 10.5 minutes.

 

tri-x @ 1600 in hc-110 (b) at 68 deg, kodak says 6 minutes.

 

Has anyone tried these combinations? Times sound good?

 

Thanks for your time

chris

Hello. I'm going to develop some tmax 3200 and some tmax 100 in hc-110 -

dilution H, 68 degrees F (not at the same time, of course). Can someone

recommend some times? (note, i'm familiar with the massive dev chart and the

covington's site. but i'm looking for times from people that have tried these

combinations.)

 

for what it's worth, i've done both tri-x and plus-x in hc-110 (H) at 68

degrees. both look good at about 11 minutes, although early results indicate

that tri-x might need a little more agitation than plus-x. too early to say

though... i've searched the forums here and it looks like tmax 100 is somewhere

in the 11 minute range as well?

 

thanks

chris

Hello - if anyone works with 125px in hc-110 (dilution h), please post your

times and temps (i do 68 degrees). The massive dev chart and the covingtons

site only list dilution B. i've scanned this forum and have found times for

dilution B as well. So far I've only done tri-x in hc-110 (11 mins at 68

degrees, dilution H). From what I've seen, I'm guessing that dilution H will be

around 11 minutes as well, but i was hoping to get a few times from people that

have tried this combination...

 

Thanks for your time

chris

i believe sprint chemicals have a good shelf-life too...although at the moment i'm still working my way through a bottle of hc-110.

hello. i recently started doing my own development and printing in my basement

darkroom. my standard combination at the moment is tri-x (at 400) and hc-110

(dilution H). i have to do some more printing before i decide whether i love

the combination, but that's a separate issue.

 

i have a backlog of about 30 rolls of film. mostly tri-x at 400, but i also

have four rolls to tmax 3200 (at 3200) and three rolls tri-x shot at 1600. my

question - should i try to develop these in hc-110 - or should i go with a

different developer? will i get good results in hc-110? (obviously it's all

subjective, etc - just looking for some opinions. note - i prefer liquid

developers...)

 

thanks

chris

Interesting about the agitation. That was what I learned when I was doing development with d-76. Agitate for the first minute, then every minute afterwards - and I had seen similar things in other posts here, I think. Anywho, I completed my second attempt at development - this time 11 minutes and a bit less agitation - and things seem better. I've only looked at the negatives and scans so far (no prints yet), but I think the development time was the issue with my first dev.

 

Thanks for all of the help.

chris

john - right - i searched the web and found a wide range of numbers for hc-110 dilution h and tri-x...for whatever reason, i started with the low end, and i'm guessing it's much too low as you and another poster suggest. I'll add a few minutes for the next batch.

 

thanks

chris

Great - thanks for the responses. I was pretty careful with temperature - but i'll continue to watch it. I'm hoping to try the first round of printing tomorrow - so that should answer my questions. i'll develop my next roll shortly as well. Depending on the printing results, i may adjust my developing slightly.

 

thanks

chris

Detail of kid's hat<div></div>

Two additions - I scanned with my negative scanner and they look okay. I'm seeing some issues with highlights though. Below are two scans, the lower is the detail of a kid's hat that is totally blown out. I noticed similar stuff on other negatives as well. As always, I appreciate your time.

Chris<div></div>

It's me again - wouldn't let me post with an img src tag...<div></div>

Hello. I just developed my first roll of film in HC-110 (i've used d-76

before). Issue is that my negatives seem too thin. Perhaps more importantly,

even the numbering/lettering on the edge of the film is thin.

 

<br/>Process: (all at 68 degrees F) tri-x at 400, HC-110 dilution H (something

short of 5mL of syrup to make 300mL total) - with distilled water - 9.5 minutes.

Agitate for first 45s or so - then once every minute. stop with water (3

refills with agitation). then 1 part kodafix and 3 parts water for 4.5 minutes

- with more frequent agitation than the developer. then wash thoroughly with

water (ilford method). final wash with distilled - and 2 drops of photo flo.

 

<br/>the scan below (flatbed) has two negative strips. the top is from one

today (hc-110) and the bottom is a good negative from before (d-76 neg that i've

printed from). the scan itself is awful, but notice the numbers on the edge -

much darker on the bottom strip.

 

<br/>Could this be from over-fixing? I tested the fixer last night and at

working strength it cleared the film in just over a minute, but I went with the

4+ minute fix based on other posts and the instructions on the bottle.

 

<br/>Thanks for your time

chris

 

<br/>

as an aside, i think this is the first time i've seen a III referred to as a point and shoot.

These forums never disappoint! Thanks for all of the responses. I'll consider the CLA - it is a beautiful camera and seems to be in perfect shape otherwise.

 

Thanks again

chris

Hello. I happened upon a Ansco Super Regent in excellent condition. Everything

seems to function perfectly - except I can't focus it. Am I doing something

wrong? The focus dial simply won't spin in either direction. Not sure if

something has to be set a certain way...

 

Thanks for your time.

Chris

Hello. I'm going to a ballroom dance competition and plan to take a bunch of

photos. I expect I'll be at the floor level and I'll be able to get relatively

close to the person I'm shooting.

 

First, my question. I'm hoping someone can provide ideas/instructions for

unique-ish shots. Blurred motion, tricks with the flash, etc. (Please feel

free to post any examples.) Generally, left to my own devices in these

situations, I don't plan beforehand, so I mostly just point and shoot.

 

No clue about lighting, etc - don't know anything about the room, windows,

lights. (Also, I'm just doing this for fun - a friend is in the competition and

I enjoy photography.)

 

I will have a bunch of rolls of tri-x (400) and tmax 3200 - i will choose at the

time depending on the lighting. Nikon f100, sb-80 flash, 50/1.8, 105/2.8, and

70-300/(something high). (I assume flash photography is allowed, but not certain.)

 

Thanks so much for your time.

Chris

mitch - that is a tremendous shot.

it's a hike, i know, but metrophoto in hershey is a small/independent shop that will develop/print 120 b&w. or, i'll have my darkroom sink soon - so go a mile beyond metrophoto and i'll develop and print it for you :)

Right - the winder issue - I've seen a few references to that. So as far as anyone knows there's nobody that can fix that?

Thanks

Chris

Hello. I'm shopping for a mamiya 6. I recently came across a 6MF - and it is

advertised as being "without mask." What is the mask? Is that what allows it

to take photos in different formats (6x4.5, etc)? I'm interested in the MF for

the additional lines in the viewfinder. I've done a bit of reading through the

forums about this camera recently. Please feel free to write any additional

info about it (6, 6mf, 7, etc). I've been looking at the bronica sq, but the

mamiya 6 appeals to me as it seems to be much more portable. I'll miss the

ability to do close-ups though...

 

thanks for your time.

chris

Hello. Labs will see the 3200 and, unless you tell them differently, use times for 3200. This film is a blast, I think. Esp for me because I haven't yet mastered the use of a flash. So I use fast lenses and film for some occasions.

 

I can also second the previous resopnse - developing film is fun (printing is even more fun), although it's a bit more high-maintenance than that. And be careful not to get popcorn-grease all over your negatives.

 

Chris<div></div>