chris_markiewicz

thanks for the many suggestions. i've owned a canonet giii ql17 before. fine camera to be sure, but a bit bulky for what i'm looking for. from the suggestions i've seen so far, i'm looking at the p&s cameras - olympus stylus epic and the canon z180u. i guess what i'd really like is to have is for one of these cameras to optionally allow me to set the aperture (i almost always shoot the f100 i A mode it's just what i'm used to). but i'm guessing i'm not going to find that in a p&s (or it wouldn't be called a p&s).

 

thanks again!

chris

right - will be used - that's why i'm buying on an auction site. also - post any options with a zoom lens...

thanks

chris

hello. i'm looking for a film point-and-shoot camera. (doesn't have to be a nikon.) something that's easier to

carry than my 35mm (f100). preferably something that gives me the option of some manual features (selecting the

aperture, etc). can someone recommend a few decent cameras that i might be able to find on the auction sites?

thanks

chris

good stuff. i'm looking for a 645af on the auction site now - and was wondering if i could use the non-AF lenses. this answers my question - thanks!

thanks for the responses. zeff has a decent selection of film - enough to get me through vacation anyway. picked up some 220 302tpx, some 120 125px, as well as some portra. used camera selection was minimal - all ebay'd, as mentioned above. i'll check some of the other stores on my next trip.

thanks again!

chris

hello. i like hc-110. easy to mix from the syrup, pretty easy to find, etc. i do everything as one-shot. you can re-use some stuff, but you have to re-use it pretty quickly, i believe. water makes a good stop bath. for hc-110 dilution H and tri-x at 400, i develop for somewhere around 10 or 11 minutes at 68F (i've done 11min before, but i may try 10 next time - either will give you a printable negative). note, try kodak 125px film too - i develop it for the same amt of time as tri-x, so i can do it in the same tank. for fixer, i use sprint (i use all sprint chemicals for printing - and the fixer can be used for both film and paper)

thanks

chris

hello. i'm in lexington, ma on business for a few days. anyone recommend a

good camera store? i just called zeff and they have plenty of MF film, so i'll

be heading there. any others?

 

thanks

chris

cool - makes sense. thanks.

chris

dumb question. i recently got a mamiya 7 ii. when i load 120 film into it, the

arrows on the film are consistently an inch or so beyond the markers in the

body. (the two are lined-up when the winder is pushed halfway, so i have to

push it the rest of the way, which moves the film past the markers).

 

am i doing something wrong?

 

thanks

chris

my experience here is, well, limited. i just bought one myself and i ran a few rolls through it over the weekend but i haven't been in the darkroom yet. that said...

 

all of the lenses for this camera are relatively slow - so i'm guessing that should help with focusing to some degree, right (because there's some latitude)? esp if you're going for lots of depth of field, as you say, then i would say that focusing won't be a problem at all.

 

my advice is to run a bunch of rolls through it and get used to the focusing. it's my first rangefinder and it seems pretty easy to get used to (of course i should develop my film before saying that). it's soooo hand-holdable - and the shutter is sooo quiet and smooth.

 

the only negative things i've seen about the 7II are that the minimum focus distance is fairly large (but if you're doing full-body shots, that won't be an issue), slow lenses, pricey. but you can easily find that many issues with any camera.

 

best of luck to you.

chris

is the temperature in your darkroom much warmer/colder than the temp you want for the chemicals?

chris

Cool. Keep me posted. Curious to hear what your ideal time/dilution/agitation are...

thanks

chris

Hello. Not sure why we're seeing different results. I use distilled water for the development phase to ensure consistency. Not sure how much of a difference it would make to use tap water, etc. (I've seen many posts on this, but nothing scientific.) As for agitation, i do roughly one inversion every minute. (Actually, one inversion one minute, two inversions the next minute, then back to one the following minute...)

 

Although your numbers are confusing to me. You did Dil B for 6 min and they were too dark, so you did Dil H for 19 min? Everything I've read said that if you cut the strength in half (B to H), you should double the time. So if 6 min at Dil B was too much, then 19 min in Dil H should be too much too...

 

As far as what is causing the difference in our results, I'm afraid I don't know. As you say, could certainly be the thermometer, maybe the water (again, i'm not sure on this one), maybe the agitation to some degree, but i don't think it would make our results so dramatically different.

 

All of my negatives from this process have been wonderfully printable. Generally have to go with a 3.5 contrast because they are indoor, low light, low contrast scenes.

 

thanks

chris

right, i would say that dilution B for 12 minutes is a bit long. i'd probably do 9 minutes in dilution B. (roughly half of my 19 minutes in H). Let us know how the new dev time works for you.

thanks

chris

Hello. I have done a number of rolls of tri-x @ 1600 in HC-110. I really like this combination. In my experience so far, it is much better - grain-wise - to tmax 3200 in hc-110. I use dilution H at 68 degrees - for 19 minutes. It's commonly said that you cut the time in half for dilution B, so I guess that puts you at 9:30. (I'll probably try Dil B next time...)

 

Please post your time/temp and results after you've tried this.

where are you located? i'm looking to get rid of an omega but i don't want to ship it. i'm near harrisburg, pa...

pardon my ignorance - but what is "Noname D6" in Vivek's post?

thanks

chris

dave - dumb question - i assume your times are for dilution b?

chris

ah, gotcha. you're saying you'll cut the roll into three strips, develop one part at 19 minutes, another part for less, and a third part for more? okay. you can probably save yourself some time by using dilution b - should be roughly half the time.

 

i've only done one roll of 1600 so far - i have about 4 more in the fridge waiting for me. so let me know how the negatives look. curious to know if i should tweak the exposure time.

 

i've made only one print from the roll of 1600 so far - and i was very impressed by the grain. i shot some tmax 3200 at the same event and the grain looks not so good - although maybe that's a dev issue. but the grain on the 1600 at 8x10 looks great, i think.

 

chris

i'm afraid i don't quite follow your question.

 

true - massive dev chart also only does dil B, i believe. as for the changes in exposure, i think the general rule is to add 25% for each push step (that's roughly how i got to 19min for 1600), and to subtract 20% for each pull step. but you'll want to research that. my memory is awful.

 

chris

Hello. I shoot mostly 400tx and develop exclusively in hc-110 dilution H - generally at 68f. distilled water for the dev step.

 

My time when exposed at 400 is 11 minutes. invert first 30 seconds or so, then 3 times every two minutes (roughly). i know you asked for 200, but i haven't tried that yet, so i figured i'd give you what i have.

 

everyone is going to refer you to the massive dev chart and the covingtons site. they're both fine, but they also both have a couple of issues from my experience. so you'll want to double-check any numbers against postings in the forums, etc.

 

as for tri-x at 1600 - i do dilution h for 19 minutes with good results. again, 68 F.

 

please post your findings after your first few devs...

 

chris

yikes, i'd say drop a lab after two mistakes. after the list that you have, you definitely want to try another lab. or do it yourself. i recently processed tri-x at 1600 in hc-110 dilution h at 68 degrees for 19 minutes - negs print very nicely. chris

yes, 68F. 68C is approx 150F - that wouldn't be fun...

One other note - I use the exact same time for 125px - so I develop both in the same tank. (I know that wasn't part of your question, but thought i'd add it in case you want to try a roll).

 

Also, once you try whatever times you decide on, please post your results in a new thread. I'm always looking for new info.

 

thanks

chris

hello. i have been using hc-110 dilution h almost exclusively so far. for tri-x at 400, i do 11 minutes at 68 degrees (distilled water). inversions for first 30 seconds or so, then 3 every 2 minutes (approximately - i'm not very strict with my inversions).