stephen_komp

I know this is a long shot, but here goes...

So I bought this adapter a while back that allows me to use P6 mount lenses on my Mamiya 645. The adapter is now stuck to the lens and it seems there is no possible way to get it off. I've tried EVERYTHING. It has the slightest bit of give to it, but that's it. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what did you do?

Thanks in advance - Steve

Is there any 'feeling' in the shutter button before cocking?

It kind of feels the way it always has. There is definitely tension.

Hi Everyone -

I have owned the same Nikon F3 for years and never had a problem. The other day it started doing something really strange. Whenever I cock the shutter, it fires (without me pressing the button) immediately. I have never had this happen with any camera and I can't figure out what is going on. Has this ever happened to anyone else? I hope it's just something I'm doing wrong.

Thanks in advance - Steve

Steve's Camera Service in LA is very very good. He is really backed up so it may take a month or so but he does great job. You should also ask Precision Camera if they would work on it - not sure but excellent work as well!

Thanks. I'll shoot them an e-mail.

Try Mark Hansen camera repair. He fixed and cla my Rolleiflex 2.8E last year and did a very nice job. He is usually backed up and it may take a while but he is very responsive and lets you know what your camera will need and the cost.

Thanks Robert. I have an e-mail in to him but I have not heard anything back yet.

Just wondering if anyone knows of a repair person who will service older Rolleicords? Harry Fleanor does not work on the Rolleicord III so, I need to find someone else. The slow speeds on the shutter are way too slow and I need to get it adjusted.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

That can happen if someone's been fiddling with the mirror stop, or the screen isn't seated properly.

 

You need to open the back with the shutter locked open on 'B' (I can't remember if the F4 has a T setting, that ugly lump is my least favourite Nikon). Then check the focus on the film plane with a makeshift ground glass - Scotch 'magic' tape on a microscope slide makes an excellent focussing screen.

 

If all's good on the film plane, then you need to look elsewhere, but it obviously pays to check that the viewfinder screen is properly seated first, with no crud trapped under it.

Thanks Joe.

Hi Everyone -

I recently noticed that my F4, when focused to infinity with a manual focus 50mm f1.8 lens, displays the farthest points as out of focus. I have never experienced this. Has anyone else?

Just for future reference, this is what the filter setup for the 50mm and 60mm "Series 63" size Distagons looks like. Top pic shows the 50mm with unthreaded drop-in Series VIII (aka 63) filter and retaining ring that comes with the lens. Bottom pic shows the filter in place on a 50mm lens with the retaining ring screwed over it (you can also use the round black screw in hood instead of the retaining ring). Alternatively, standard 67mm threaded filters can be partially screwed directly onto the lens front threads (remove the retaining ring first, it isn't used with 67mm filters).

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Thanks for the information and the photos. Much appreciated.

I recently bought a Hasselblad 50mm Distagon f4 C T* Lens and I would like to use filters. I think it uses Series 63 filters, from what I've read ??? Not sure. Is there an adapter where I can use regular filters - 67mm perhaps?

I can't find any definitive information. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks - Steve

I have a Mamiya 80mm f2.8 N 645 Lens that has a very loose focusing ring.

Has anyone ever had this happen and we're you able to fix it? I really don't want to send it off for repair.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Hi All -

I recently purchased a Pentax 6x7 and I have found that it is very difficult to put the lenses on and take them off. You really have to apply a lot of pressure when turning them on the lens mount. Has anyone else experienced this? Any fixes? Thanks in advance.

Steve

I once had a back that refused to communicate the film speed to the camera. It took several vigorous contact-cleaning attempts before it came right.

 

Another possibility is that the darkslide or its detector switch is faulty. Try swapping darkslides between backs.

 

Never had a moment's problem with my old metal M645s BTW. In fact they're still working. Whereas all my plastic 645s gave endless trouble. It seems they were in for repair more than they were in use!

Thanks Joe. I'll try that. I agree 100% about the older Mamiya 645s vs. the newer ones.

Try cleaning the electrical contacts on the back.

I forgot to mention that I did try that. Did not work.

Hi Everyone -

One of the backs for my Mamiya 645 Pro TL just stopped working the other day. When you load the film, it advances to the first frame (with the power grip) but when you press the button to take the first shot it does nothing. It's not the camera because it fires with the back off and it fires with my other back.

Has anyone ever experienced this?

Thanks - Steve

FWIW, I just pulled my C330 off the shelf and checked various lenses. They all stay open when the lever is held down, both old chrome and newer black shutters. That's with the lens in hand, not on the camera. I didn't check using the body release. More importantly, I've found the inner surface(s) of the rear group on these lenses are made of a glass that's like candy to fungus. Seriously, they are the most fungus-prone lenses I've ever seen. The old chrome ones are the worst. Black shutters less so. Keep a close eye on them (use a penlight) and clean or get them cleaned at the first sign of haze, speckles, roughness or threads.

Have you tried it with a cable release screwed in?

 

IIRC, the manual release lever only flicks the internal firing pin momentarily on those Seiko shutters.

rodeo_joe: That did the trick. I really thought something was wrong with the lens. Thanks for the advice.

Have you tried it with a cable release screwed in?

 

IIRC, the manual release lever only flicks the internal firing pin momentarily on those Seiko shutters.

I'll try that. Thanks !!!

Just to be clear, bulb only stays open so long as the lever is held down. Time (T) will stay open until you press the lever again.

Yes, I should have been more clear. I do hold it down but it closes right away.

I recently purchased a Mamiya c330 with an EX+ condition 80mm f2.8 Sekor lens. The lens works great and is accurate at all speeds. However, when I switch it to BULB, it won't stay open. It closes immediately. Am I doing something wrong? This is my first experience with a Mamiya TLR.

Thanks - Steve

Hi Everyone -

I have two Rolleicords. The threaded hole where the cable release screws in (sorry, don't know the technical term) has broken off on both of them. As I understand it, this is a common issue. Does anyone have any advice for fixing it without having to send it off?

Thanks in advance - Steve

What's the serial number on your camera?

4136867