thomson_chan

Dear all,

I am currently using a old camera XG-9 (more than 20yrs old), the

camera seems to be working OK in normal condition (warm weather,

medium shutter speed) but how could I check if the camera has a

accurate fast shutter speed? And if it works correctly in freezing

and hot weather?

Cheers,

Thomson

Hi, I am thinking about replacing my XG-9 with X 700, but don't know

how much it would cost in the second hand market. I had check the

price on the e-bay, but the price doesn't always reflect the price of

the second hand in a shop.

Also, any advice on buying second hand cameras? Any thing to pay

special attention of?

I am currently in Bristol, UK.

Cheers,

Thomson

Dear all,

I am planning to switch to Nikon in the very near future, but I heard

that through history, Nikon had developed different types of lens

mount. Could any one give me a slight introduction on the type of

mount for Nikon SLRs?

The camera I am planning to buy is a F80, or N80 as they sold it in

US. What types of lens could it use?

Cheers,

Thomson Chan

Thanks everybody for contributing suggestions.

All I wanted to know is if a longer dipping in stop bath is needed as more prints goes through. On the bottle, it recomanded the number of prints the stop bath can handle.

I'm a bit of an environmentalist myself, I will probably use the chemical to its recomanded life.

Thanks everybody, wish you all a cheerful photo shooting year ahead.

Thomson

Dear all,

I am new in doing darkroom B/W photography. I use Ilford chemicals

and paper. When using the 'stop' chemical, it recommends how much

8"X10" it can process, but I heard that after certain amount of

prints, the time for STOP bath should be longer.

I wonder what the general rule for the time for stop bath, as the

chemical is getting older. Also, are there any rules for the fix as

well?

Cheers, wish every body a colourful year ahead,

Thomson

Dear all,

I have a Minolta XG-9. But due to ageing, the parts are not moving

as smooth as it should be.

The main problem is the aperture reading ring on the camera, it is

not turning smoothly, which in return does some damage to the camera

itself.

I am wonder if the use of lubricant is a good idea to smooth it up,

if so, which sort of lubricant should I use? I would go to a proper

repair shop if I have more money, which I really lack.

Thanks and wish you all a colourful year ahead,

Thomson

Dear all,

I have a slight problem with my XG-9.

The problem is that the aperture sensor (the turning ring on the

camera near the lens-socket), its a bit stuck, not turning as smooth

as it should be.

What should I do to smooth it up?

Thanks,

Thomson

Hi everybody,

Does anyone know that if film is scanned into computer using scanner

or neg-copier, does it lost the originality of the film? e.g. color,

distortion?

Cheers,

Thomson

Dear Douglas,

I had a look at the web, and saw the ES-E28, it is slightly too expensive in my case,

But thanks anyway for your help,

Thomson

Dear all, happy New Year to you,

My friend and I are planning a photography workshop in our old-

school. Due to funding, we are not able to buy a darkroom enlarger

nor a darkroom.

What our plan is that we use those photography bag to put the film

into a daylight developing tank, then use my digital camera to

photograph the negative.

The problem is that a neg copier is quite expensive, does anybody

know how to make a simple one? or referece to websites?

I am using Coolpix 995.

Thank you and wish you a happy year ahead,

Thomson

Dear all, happy New Year to you,

My friend and I are planning a photography workshop in our old-

school. Due to funding, we are not able to buy a darkroom enlarger

nor a darkroom.

What our plan is that we use those photography bag to put the film

into a daylight developing tank, then use my digital camera to

photograph the negative.

The problem is that a neg copier is quite expensive, does anybody

know how to make a simple one? or referece to websites?

I am using Coolpix 995.

Thank you and wish you a happy year ahead,

Thomson

I had found the following photo on the web, and I wonder how could

this photo could be done, assuming its using one frame of film, with

no afterward editing

Thanks and wish you all a happy new year,

Thomson

Dear ROKKOR FAN,

Thanks again for your sharing your knowledge, but just a small question, when you said bounce flash, do you mean bouncing off ceiling/wall, or using a reflector attatched on the flash?

Thanks again, (very nice website you created)

Thomson

Thanks ROKKOR FAN, you'll remain as a living photography-dictionary in my memory.

Really appreciate all you have taught me.

But I have just a small follow-up question:

If I'm taking photos in an indoor function, and need flash to fill-in, which method from the above would you recomand? Or are there some better method for such occasion?

Thanks so much and wish you a Happy New Year,

Thomson

Hi Dave,

The camera (XG-9) sets to 1/60 automatically when the flash is attatched to the hotshoe and switched on when it is in A-mode.

The thing I don't understand is the shutter speed, why doesn't the shutter taken into concern when the flash is used? How do I know what shutter shutter speed I should use?

Apologise for all the shallow question I'm asking, I had just begun shooting photos.

Cheers, and wish you a Happy New Year,

Thomson

Hi Dave,

Does it mean that I should set to A-mode, tune the aperture until the shutter speed is 1/60, then use that aperture reading on the flash? Do I turn it to a lower power for a ratio fill-in effect?

Cheers, Wish you a Happy New Year,

Thomson

Dear all,

Could anyone teach me how to use the 360PX with the non-TTL XG-9?

I am hoping to do fill-in flash. But when I want to shoot at a large

aperture and fast shutter speed, do I have to use a PC chord? Because

the X-sync is set to be 1/60, this surely will over-expose when I

shoot during day.

Could someone teach me how to do fill-in flash?

Thank you very much and wish you all a Happy New Year,

Thomson

Merry Christmas to all,

I've got a question on how to use non-TTL camera (minolta XG-9) with

flashgun (minolta auto 360PX)

Since my camera doesn't have TTL, I have to set the power on the

flash. The X-sync speed is at 1/60, and I think it automatically set

the flash to 1/60 when the camera is set at aperture mode and when

the flash is switched ON.

The question is: if the shutter is set at 1/60 when taking photo at

day, will it not over-expose?

If I use a PC chord, instead of hotshoe, can I use a faster shutter

speed? So I could use the A-mode, then set the fill-in flash

according to the sperture?

Or could anyone tell me the method to use manual fill-in flash?

Thank you and wish you all a Nappy new-year

Thomson

Frank:

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge,

Wish you a merry Christmas

Merry Christmas to all,

Just want to ask, Where in Bristol (UK) can I buy first & second hand

equipments? I am actually looking for a Minolta Flashgun, model

number is auto 360PX.

Cheers and wish you all a merry Christmas, Thomson

Merry Christmas to all,

Just want to ask,

Where in Bristol (UK) can I buy first & second hand equipments?

I am actually looking for a Minolta Flashgun, model number is auto

360PX.

Cheers and wish you all a merry Christmas,

Thomson

Thank you so much for contributing answers and suggestions.

I had really learned a lot.

Cheers and wish you a merry Christmas and a happy new-year.

Thomson Chan

Dear Photographers,

I'm about to process my first roll of film, but I still have some

uncertainties. They are as follow:

For the Stop and Fix in film developing, it only requires 300ml, but

I had mixed a liter as working volume. Do I pour the used chemical

into the bottle with the unused chemical? Does it effect the overall

chemical? How do I know when the Fix and Stop are exhausted? Any way

to test it?

Also, can anybody tell me if the following timing sounds right:

Film developing Tri-X with Ilfosol S, Ilfostop, Rapid Fix are

10:00min, 15sec, 2-5min respectively

Printing with MGRC cool tone: Multigrade, Stop, Fix, wash are 1min,

30sec, 1min, 2min respectively.

Does these time sounds right?

Thank you very much for teaching me so much, wish you all a merry

Christmas,

Thomson Chan

Thank you to all of you, its tremendous help for a begineer like me.

Many thanks again,

Thomson Chan

Hi to all,

I am a beginner in photography, and will try developing B&W film very

soon.

The problem is that I shot with Tri-X film, and only have Illford

Chemicals to use. How could I find out what the developing time is?

Is Illford-S the only chemical that could develop Tri-X? Does fixer

and stop time dependent on the type of film? Also, How do I know if

the developer, stop and fixer has become old and ineffective?

Thank you so much for your time, hope to read your professional

answer.

Thomson Chan