james_ogara1

Russ, also I think the SB-28 being more advanced than the 24-25-26 models, has certain features that are designed to be controlled from the camera (e.g., F-5) and which the F-4 thus can't control.

Just put in a big film order from Adorama. Normally I use B&H but

Adorama was a little cheaper on the films I was buying, some 120 side

TMY, a 50-pack of XP-2, and some Fuji Press 800.

 

Now that I have placed my order I get an email saying that the TMY and

XP-2 are back ordered.

 

Note than the B&H web site tells you all that up front.

 

Nice.

Sample variation is soooooo frustrating.

Are NPH, NPZ more forgiving of tungsten correction (i.e., for skin tones) than basic Fuji Press?

Sorry no idea -- ebay maybe.

Second the diopet thing -- I just had mine in for service and they turned the dioper thing for some reason -- took me a few minutes to figure out why everything was blurry.

I bet you a roll of short-dated KR 64 that Ron Mowrey has.

It's fine unless it was left in an oven.

Richard, I know the F-4 has a counter but it's only viewable (downloadable?) by service personnel. I had mine checkecd last CLA. I'm assuming that photo valet software might do the trick.

You poor dears. All inflamed by NPR, living in the freest country in the world, and now you don't even have the "specter" of the NYC subway "ban" to jabber about.

 

I live in D.C. -- yes, one of the 9/11 targets, home to 39 count 'em police departments -- and have *never* had trouble taking a picture *anywhere*. But I'm sure life is much rougher in, uh, Dayton.

Tom,

 

And so they are. Thanks.

 

P.S. What would Oliver Stone say?

Just getting ready to buy some more bricks of Press 800 when I noticed

Adorama has a phenemonal deal on Superia 800 -- $2.29 per 36 exp roll.

 

Anyone have any thoughts on which is better for general purposes? (I

shoot a lot in tungsten light with a Nikon B2 filter.)

Pretty please?

Fwiw, I was trying to be ironic.

"I find people who started with the pro models such as the F or F2 like the F4 very much. If you started with one of the consumer models FMx, FT, FE, etc. it doesn't make as much difference."

 

This is an important and often overlooked point.

Jeffrey makes a strong point. You wouldn't want to end up with a forum with the vitriol of the Leica forum, for instance.

Gan the 1.4 AFD is a joy to use manually.

"That is simply not true as a general rule."

 

But it's a pretty helpful shortcut when you're shooting a wedding and htings are hectic.

"I saw that ICE degrades sharpness on the LS-4000 but in the LS-5000, I scan with ICE on normal and the results are very sharp, I think sharper than they were with ICE off on the older unit."

 

Ilkka, I thought the only difference between the 4000 and 5000 was in the realm of the processing speed, but same optics, same LED array etc.

Is the Goldilocks solution to use 160 VC?

Heavens yes, my young man. That film will be good in 2010 for that matter. Just don't leave it in direct sunlight.

Mr. Danis, thanks for saving me the trouble.

I just have a question for people: Have you ever had a gallery show and heard some guy in a herringbone jacket with leather elbow pads saying to the woman he's making time with that your stuff sucks?

 

Who cares

 

Even more so, who cares what some robot in Thailand "thinks"?

 

Who cares!

Mr. Konica to you.

I stick mine down in the botom of the bag and slide the 28 1.4 on top of it. Perfect fit.