zenit_zepplin

good job! so, is the XE article next?

that's because the pins on nikon and Pentax are spaced pretty much the same way, as far as promaster strobes go does yours have a CN module that you can take off and replace with one designed for Pentax? or is it all one piece? If that fails you can always slave it up (e.g. get a cheap optical one: it's fairly unreliable but very safe) or at least use open flash :)

</br> also, there's a site which lists trigger voltages for various strobes...I don't have it here with me, but you can google it up

I recall you posted earlier asking for somebody to "assist" you with their own equipment on their own time and expence and for free and then give you all their pics. I wonder if there were any takers?

thanks, but this eskoufos website only has a user manual, not the repair manual, probably will just have to use my Weston meter as I do with most other cameras anyway or perhaps I'd take it apart as far as it goes wothout any heroic irreversible steps to see if I can locate the resistor.

btw I shot two rolls with it today, about half way through the 1st roll the meter came to life and it's great now, but I'm sure it'd be acting up again tomorrow.

I was wondering if anyone has saved a .pdf file of the repair manual for XE (I

recall that it was postd on some kind of Minolta fan site which I can no longer

locate, but I'm sure I've seen it). <p> Anyway, the problemme I am having is

that after a period of inactivity, say a week or even a few days, the meter

needle of my XE-7 is either not moving or not showing the correct reading. All

speeds test ok in the manual mode, so it's not the electronics, but rather, as

I suspect the aperture resistor. When I move the aperture actuator back and

forth a dozen times or so the needle becomes a lot more agile. So it's probably

oxidation of contacts of some sort. I took the lens mount off to see if I can

find it but it looks like the whole front assembly needs to come off, hence the

question. Thanks.

the logo is not weird ,if you look on the back cover of Pentax manuals you'll see it there too. What is weird (assuming tha it's made in 1994) is that it has the word ASAHI stamped above PENTAX, I thought that by 1994 the production was moved to China.

so, why is it claiming that an AF lens can't be used on a zx-30 body...?

x-ray?

in addition to the things already mentioned, your Pentax ME has 3 mechanical speeds B, 125 and 2000 (no batts needed)

I think the story is that a photog dropped the camera into the surf while getting off, so they put the camera into a bucket of fresh water and took it film and all to the repair shop in London... it's in Matanle's book as I recall

.<div></div>

?This is the best show that has been at the University of Kentucky art museum in the 20 years I've been here (though the Rodin collection was nice too)?

<p>Wow, I would not go that far now. These (yes, very historic) snapshots are but digital prints, sort of like Rodin stuff you mention that was cast in vast quantities decades after his death. Now that Landscape Impressionism exhibit that they had a few months ago was much more interesting, hope you had a change to see it too.

vivtars have fixed prisms, but even the low-res picture shows that that's not the case. The camera is most likely a Nikon with whicheveritis metering head... now of course perhaps they really did use a vivtar in the scene where the camera gets snatched by a vietnamese on a scooter :)

looks like it's not just a leg, but a cast, don't you think

I also looked at the large file and it seems that it suffers from shacky hands overall, but there is also a considerable chromatic aberration at the corners. Perhaps shielding the front with at least your hand would have helped, and probably stopping down to f/8 or so would too. So try it with a hood/tripod/release cable/MLU before you decide.

strange, I've expected to be somekind of weird feedback via the actuator lever...I'd really love to know what's causing it though...the only other thing to try is to take the batts out, switch to 1/125 or B mode and see if the same thing persists (maybe something is shorting out)

suppose the vivitar is mounted and the camera is not cocked, turn the aperture ring to any setting other than 2.8 while looking into the lens, can you see the diaphragm blades closing? <p>another question: let's say you try the vivitar lens ... the camera fires as you've described, then without cocking the shutter you take the vivitar off and put some other lens (which is known to work normally on), and then cock the camera. What happens?

take the lens off and look inside: is the mirror up? Meanwhile, don't force anything and don't try the self-timer

my new fed-2 has so many pinholes in the 2nd shutter curtain that it resembles

cheesecloth. I tried patching it up with some liquid electical tape (which did

not really fix the problemme), but now, about a month later I see that it's

peeling off (see the photo below). The LET was applied directly to the silk.

Any suggestions as to how to fix it please. BTW I tried some kind og silicone

gasket crap (which I applied to the film side) but it just would not set, it's

still sticky and the thickness has changed enough for the camera to loose

1/500. Thanks<div></div>

if you do get an FG pack as Douglas suggested, you would not even have to take it off, just pop its battery compartment door open (or better still cut in a switch), that'd disconnect the power. As far as the actual fix, this sounds like a short, not sure if it'd be easy to locate and fix yourself.

the writer claims that <p>"When Eisenstadt took that famous shot of the sailor and nurse in Times Square ﾖ he couldnﾒt

ﾓchimpﾔﾅbut he didnﾒt need to ﾖ he knew the minute he clicked the shutter he got the shot."</p> <p> but that's not the case, I've seen a reproduction of the contact sheet from this roll in some book somewhere, and there's at least half a dozen shots, maybe more. So chimping (and shooting raw) is just a modern day equivalent of bracketing.

ok, this beeing the Classic Camera forum here's a lens for you: Fujinon 43-75 f/3.5-4.5maybe5.6?? can't remember, saw one about two years ago at a yard sale but did not buy it on account of its apparent crappiness

"Nothing will move. I tried to pull the film out and it wont budge. "

<p> take the batts out, (just popping the battery compartment door will do the trick), go into a dark closet at night, open the back take out the film cassette and gently but firmly pull on it. After a certain force is exerted the film will begin unrolling, spool it in and you're set.

<p> zx's follow a stupid protocol of always advancing the film (or just running the motor dry if there's no film in the camera) once the back's been opened/closed and the camera's turned on for the first time thereafter, so you can't just slap the door and use the rewind button, which is a real pity.

best

I see, thanks for the input. found some info on arista kit, but it's also a liquid one. I see what you mean about the solvent, would not be a problemme for me, but clearly it would not very marketable in general

the mirror was probably a symptom rather then the cause, maybe the shutter blades are stuck on a film chip or something like that(you might not be able to see it), although as they warn us one must never touch these, so I'm definitely not saying that you should move them ever so gently with a pin...zx's too much electronics