thirteenthumbs

HC110 concentrate will still be good but I would be very leery of a mixed solution. Do a snip test.

I came across some TriX in a bulk film loader in a box of freebies. The date on the loader was 3/84. I had to expose the film at EI 50 to get a usable image and processing in HC110 at 65°F reduced the fog to acceptable levels. Your results will depend on how the film was stored as others have reported good results with older TriX that was frozen or kept in cool storage.

My Epson scanners run Epsonscan 3.7.7.3 In the Configuration Preview tab there is a Auto Photo Detection check box and an accompanying slider from small to large.

With this check box deselected placing the cursor on a corner of a frame,clicking and holding the marquee box can be dragged onto the frame and once the mouse button is released each side of the marquee can be moved using the double headed cursor when positioned on the side line (Windows window resize). Once the marquee is set on the image clicking on the marquee box with the secondary marquee in the preview tool bar gives a second marquee that can be dragged onto the next frame, adjusted, and the sequence repeated until all frames have been selected then click the all box in the preview tool box then click scan and all frames will be scanned in sequence at the scan settings in the main scan panel.

My XP machine sets idle. I have disposed of my 1640SU and 1650 scanners. The 4180 still does not come up on Epson US a. It only recognizes the model numbers sold here.

I vaguely remember some version of Epsonscan having an auto marquee feature that never worked well and I never used it. Again look for auto settings under the Configuration tab. The problem you're having may be due to the density of the negatives or slides you're scanning.

 

Starting a new thread is best unless the thread you're adding to is less than a month or two old.

life jensen, are you using Epsonscan or some other software? Ass u meing you're using Epsonscan which mode are you using, Full Auto, Home, Office, Professional?

In Professional mode deselect the thumbnail checkbox, in other modes find a way to turn off the auto frame finding feature (auto marquee) or its calibration and reset it to suit your needs if possible.

William, when I clicked on Epson Global Australia was not available in the country list or regions. I guess they don't think that the San Francisco peninsula needs access to the Asian region or southern continents. I realize a server may have been out to lunch.

I ass umed that the 4180 was a product number for a different region but being a stinker for technical accuracy I asked rather than guessing.

I don't know MAC.

 

Paul, What do you have these settings set to?

Epson XP610, V500, V700 all have the same settings and configuration boxes, your alien scanner should be the same.

Others, if the document background is left in the transparency lid of an Epson flatbed scanner you get an ERROR message when trying to scan.

Goodbye until one can upload files with Firefox.

1. you must be on another planet as Epson USA search does not turn up a 4180 scanner.

2. What operation system and scan software are you using?

I've never heard of turbine oil. I use TriFlow with teflon, available at hardware stores, amazon, ebay. Some old shutters never come back to intolerance regardless what you do. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tri-Flow-Bicycle-Superior-Lubricant-2fl-oz-59-ml-Bike-/221713142865?hash=item339f221451:g:aq0AAOSwNSxVAK4W

Treating the shutter blades and controller with extra fine powdered graphite may help also. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AGS-Extra-Fine-Powdered-Graphite-Dry-Lubricant-MZ-2-21-OZ-NEW-/310702344743?hash=item48574d8a27:g:VaMAAOSwMpZUq~~o

What I did when I was having some problems with Safari compatibility early on was download Google Chrome and set it up as an icon on my desktop that I could use just to access the site--that way I didn't have to change my default browser. The Firefox/Photonet combination does seem to have issues at the moment. Using an alternative browser isn't convenient, but it might be a useable short-term workaround until the problem is fixed.

I have chrome on the XPS for a special usage, tried it, it worked for the upload.

Had to switch browsers to upload images.

I wasn't able to duplicate the problem in using either Chrome or Safari, either in uploading to the portfolio or to threads. Is the problem still occurring or might it have been a temporary issue? Were you uploading to your portfolio or to a thread? And which browser were you using? (If it was Firefox, there are some others who share the problem, and there's a thread on this forum that discusses some solutions (here).

Dell Insprion and Dell XPS 8500, Windows 10 64 bit, Firefox 51.0.1 64 bit version on both machines, uBlock ad blocker on one, bluehell firewall on the other machine (browser ad on). Norton security. Only jpegs show as upload options from folders containing tiff, jpeg, and pdf files. I was trying to upload to a forum thread.

Suggestions in the provided link failed to help.

 

Other photo sites that did an upgrade worked quickly without much fanfare. This is the only site I have trouble with.

unable to upload a jpeg. unable to upload a pdf.

time to cancel my membership.

UNABLE TO UPLOAD ANY FILE!

contact me via the site if any of that still works and i'll send you the ENGLISH instructions from the 1990's when I purchased my 2521's.

"I also got the Uniroller but it only rotates one direction,"

The Beseler motorized base came in two versions, a mono rotation and a reversing rotation models.

Do your 2509 reels have the end pieces that snap in once the film is loaded?

The instructions say to use standard development times.

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ for HC110.

I just posted in the Medium Format section on a Copal SVX shutter problem. C o c k, a standard term for readying a shutter phrase was character out as was Trip a standard term for releasing the for exposure.

Cock the shutter.

Trip the shutter.

Standard camera repair terminology that should not be treated as obscene language.

The whole delay mechanism moves, the green arrow end is the pallet end, adjust it if possible for 1 second, the regulator end (the other end) is adjusted for 1/30.

I have not had the opportunity to work on Copal shutters. There may not be any adjustment room in the delay mount.

A microphone next to the case will not be accurate for speed timing. The shutter speed tester I referenced produces a spike at shutter opening and another at shutter closing. If the time line is expanded the spike becomes a curved ramp. Speed measurement is from start of rise to start of fall. I have tested speeds of 1/1000 with it.

My laser pointer failed so I put a piece of dark red light filter over the sensor and use standard AA maglight for leaf shutters and a CFL for focal plane shutters.

The red filter is close to a Wratten 25. The LED sensor is placed at the center of the shutter opening.

 

Hold the shutter so you can see the shutter blades and the second hand of a clock or watch. (http://download.cnet.com/ClocX/3000-2350_4-10714893.html puts one on your desktop.) Set the shutter , release the shutter just as the second hand reaches a second mark. The shutter should fully open within .0001 to .0003 second and fully close just as the second hand reaches the next second mark. Set the speed to 1/2 second and repeat. The shutter should close just as the second hand reaches the mid point between the starting and next second marks. A sweep second hand movement works better than a quartz step movement for 1/2 second. The second hand width either side of the desired position on shutter close is in tolerance.

http://www.flutotscamerarepair.com/Shutterspeed.htm

I don't know what you mean "Using the microphone on my computer I timed the shutter speeds." There use to be a good thread on this site before the "overhaul" about using a photo transistor tester to test shutter speeds. I had updated it to currently available (2012) infrared led photo transistor but that thread is now ancient history and the current "we think you're looking for this" POS search engine is a complete waste of time. The tester can still be found at https://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6105

 

 

A drop of clock oil or similar light weight machine oil about the size of a straight pin point on the gear shafts of the timing delay and other movements may help. Too much lube acts like glue. Servicing guides say to "wipe off the excess leaving a light sheen of oil".

Some shutters have an adjustable delay gearing. The closer the pallet end (furthest from the cocking lever) is to the center of the shutter the faster the slow speeds, set for correct 1 second. The release end (closest to the cocking lever) is fastest when closer to the outer side of the case.

 

 

The delay timing control speeds from 1 second to 1/125, faster speeds are achieved with booster speeds.

The shutter may nor run correct speeds until fully assembled.

Looking at this manual http://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_67-b&w.pdf

the 67 has two flash sync sockets, one marked X for electronic flash and one marked FP for focal plane flash bulbs.

Page 32 says to use X on the shutter speed dial or any speed slower than 1/60 for electronic flash. I would assume that 1/60 of faster will not sync with electronic flash.

No problem with the cog lid other than it may be rougher on your hands to handle. Adjust the roller base rollers to fit behind the lid and before the last inch of the bottom of the tank.

2500 Multi Tank 2 is newest version

2521 magnet base

2523 cog lid

All the same tank, the cog lid or magnet base was for use in the Jobo processors in production at the time they were current.

New Jobo http://www.freestylephoto.biz/search?q=jobo

is the only U.S. source for new Jobo products.

Developer will kill Blix; Blix will kill developer. I do not know how much of one is needed to kill the other but Blix in the developer is far more critical than developer in the Blix.

 

What camera are you using? Operate the camera with the back open on a slow shutter speed and verify the shutter is operating. Starting with the F4 Nikon says not to operate the shutter with the back open to prevent damage to the shutter. If your camera has such a warning put a piece of white paper the same thickness over the image plane, close the back, shine a bright light into the lens and operate the camera on slow shutter speeds. If you see white, even a quick flash, the shutter is working, if not the shutter is not opening and the camera needs servicing.

wrong form thread

new f______ interface.

If you scroll down the posts in your reference link there is a Tessar lens diagram posted. The lens front is on the left. An exact diagram will match the curvature of the lens cells exactly, a generic diagram will show the general curvature of the lens cells but the actual lens will vary somewhat but the number of cells and their placement will remain the same. Unscrewing the front and checking all 4 surfaces of the lens (2 front, 2 rear) will tell if its assembled correctly. Looking at the service manual I cannot tell for certain that the focus mechanism drives both sides of the front standard or not but appears to. The focus mechanism may have slipped and is putting one side of the front standard slightly ahead of the other. This type of error would be easy to see with the measurement you preformed.

I had the paragraphs separated in post #8 but the so called upgrade jumbled it into one large mess. I'm surprised it didn't eliminate the periods at the end of sentences and spaces between words as well.

Still unable to upload the lens diagram.

Upload a file fails repeatedly, trying to upload a lens diagram to a focus problem troubleshooting response, 2-16-17 00:30-00:45 AM PDT.

It seems to me that if the film was not loaded correctly one would experience difficulty advancing the film, film advance would require a lot of pressure/force, the backing paper would be damaged/folded, or there would be scratches on the film or a combination of these.

 

 

It is a pain to get birds, insects, wildlife to be still when trying to photograph them.:)

 

 

The attached photo is the lens diagram. Light travels the direction of the arrow. The aperture and shutter blades are between the front and rear cells. The front cell is an air spaced pair of elements and the rear is a cemented pair. The front cell should unscrew from the shutter, the front should be convex with the rear of the front cell concave. With the front cell removed open the shutter either on B or T. The front of the rear cell should be flat to a slight concave. The outside of the rear cell can be checked with the back open, it should be convex. If the surfaces match the lens is likely assembled correctly, if they do not match it is assembled incorrectly.

 

There is a Rolleiflex repair manual for download here: http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairmanuals.html

 

 

Other possibilities is the view screen is installed incorrectly, the view lens and focusing lens are out of sync, the shutter is incorrectly mounted causing it to be cocked slightly, lens barrel bent from being dropped or banged into something, or a combination. A .001 inch variation will show a focus error.

 

 

With the camera on a tripod and 22° to a fence or wall with a tape measure or similar distinguishing features focus on a feature/inch mark in the center of the frame and make an exposure with the aperture wide open. With the camera on a tripod and the film plane parallel to a textured wall make an exposure with the aperture wide open.

The negative of the angled exposure should be sharpest at the point focused on, the textured wall should have equal sharpness across the frame.

 

 

Upload of image failed!

I just looked at the geese photo at 100%, there is a slight camera shake on the sharpest goose.

Take a breath, let it half out, hold/trip shutter, breath normal. This is when you are most stable.

 

Now take a fine graduation rule and measure the distance from the case to the lens standard at all 4 corners of the camera with the focus set to 10 to 15 feet. The distance should be the same at each corner. A caliper will work better if you have one.

Next check that the trim ring of the taking lens is square to the side of the camera.

Is this a "new to you" camera?

Are these lab scans?

Does the softness exists in the negatives? Does it match the scans?

Its possible that someone had the taking lens apart and assembled it incorrectly. The depth of field should be greater than that at f4.

Use the flip up magnifier in the view hood for focusing, you will be surprised what a difference it will make on your selected point of focus.

Shooting at 1/100 second or slower can result in camera shake. Camera shake can make accurately focused images soft if it is very minor.