peng_kit_wong

Hi there Canon people,

 

I would like to know if anyone has tried/used EF80-200mm f2.8L?? I

know it is a very old lens. I would love to know if there are any

reports available.

 

Thanks in advance,Kit �@

Sorry, I used the wrong word, it should be [overcast] not [undercast]..guess I had too much beer this evening!...

Roy, thanks for correcting me!

 

Many votes for Tri-X in HC-110, thanks. Actually I have more experience in HC-110 than Rodinal. But I do not have much experience in Tri-X though. My main film is Neopan 400 and Acros.Would love to try that gritty look of Tri-X in Rodinal. But I think I will soup my films in HC-110 as I have more confidence and control in HC-110.

 

Keep the comments rolling guys! Any comments are welcome!

 

Cheers, Kit

Hi there guys,

 

I will be doing an important project, shooting outdoor in undercast

condition, no sun maybe some rain. I will be shooting snapshots

(candid) of people in the street. In undercast conditions, I think

the photos will be flat.

 

I have Fuji Acros, Neopan 400,1600 and TX,TMX,TMY for films, and as

for developers I have Rodinal and HC-110.

 

I was wondering what combo would you pick for this situation and how

would you expose@develope (what dilution etc). What I want in the

final product is a bit contrasty( I can print in grade 3 or 4) , very

sharp portraits with good shadow details. Some grain is no problem

here.

If you are in my shoes, please tell me what will you do.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Regards, Kit

Hi Jean,

 

I have some Fuji super Prodol too but haven't tried it out yet. I mainly shoot Neopan Presto 400 and my soup is HC-110.

 

You are right about preparing the soup. I can read some japanese, so feel free to mail me. BTW, have you tried Fuji's HP?? I think they have an English version (??)

 

Regards,

Kit

Thanks for the prompt response guys!!

 

I have another question, does the MkI have rear focus/inner focus like MkII??

 

BTW which do you think I should get??

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Kit

Hi there Canon shooters,

 

I would like to know what is the difference between EF 200mm f/2.8L �U

USM & f/2.8L USM. I understand that the f/2.8L �UUSM is being

released in 1996 and the f/2.8L USM in 1991.

 

Both have the same lense construction, same lense group. I wonder

what is the major difference between these two. Does the II version

focus faster? Is the sharpness and contrast different? Or is it only

they have different lense hood??

 

All comments are welcome. Thanks!!

 

 

Cheers,

Kit

I am very curious of what effects/results will I get if i cross-

process slide films in C-41 chemistry. I have a few rolls of expired

Astia, Velvia and Dynax in the freezer, thinking of experimenting

them by cross processing.

 

Could you guys tell me how does these films behave if I cross-process

them in C-41. How will the colour shift be?

 

1) How do I expose? I will be using 1 hour lab for processing so

there will be no pushing or pulling.

 

2) What subject/situation is good? Portraits? Scenery? Contrasy or

overcast scene?

 

3) Can I print the negatives in normal negative print papers?

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

 

Kit

First of all congratulations to your first comming baby!!

 

There are advantages and disadvantages for each lense but one vote to the macro lense!!! It is a wonderful, very sharp with good contrast lense. But since you will be taking photos of your new baby puppy ( a moving subject), it will be an diasdvantage as it's focusing is a bit slower compared to the non-macro f2 lense. Well both are USM so it is quiet and fast focusing lense compared to non USM.

 

But I think you will not regret getting the macro lense, as it is a good portrait lens too. Moreover it could focus 0.31m-. This means you can take nice close-ups of you puppu. Another disadvantage is that it is a bit bulky and more pricey than the f2.

 

BTW I prime lense user, i don't fancy much zoom lenses.

Reala is my fave print film and I would suggest Fuji NPH is good too. Not too contrasty and it has fine grain. It will be a bit grainy if you underexpose.

Another vote for Astia, very neutral and nice smooth skin tones. Provia F might be another choice too if you are more interested in emphasising what the models are wearing and their makeup.

Steve,

 

Thanks for the prompt reply.

Do you meant that if I shoot at the speed I want, you recommend me metering with a grey card?

Hi guys,

 

I have been taking B&W all along and been thinking of doing some

colour again. I have some stock of Fuji Reala and Fuji NHP with me

hibernating in my fridge. I will be taking portraits & nudes in the

beach.

 

I have read forums on these two films, most rate Reala at 80 and NPH

at 320. I have a few questions:

 

(1) How do I meter/expose?

Do I expose for shadows and print for highlights (like in B&W)??

 

(2) If the scene is too sunny do I rate it at the recommeded ISO as

what the box says? If it is cloudy do I overexpose more to get

more saturated colours??

 

Please advice and any comments are most welcome!!

 

 

Cheers,

 

Kit

Hi

 

I know I am asking a very basic and silly question, but I was

wondering what aperture will you guys use for street photography/

portrait for 100mm macro f2.8 USM. I know this is a very sharp lens.

I have enjoyed shooting still life with this lens and have good

results. I normally use f8-11 for my still life/macro.

 

Could you guys tell me what aperture will you use for portraits?? I

want the 'bokeh' for my portraits. I understand that the aperture for

a macro lens like 100mm behaves a bit different from normal lenses.

I guess I need to load a reel of film to see for myself.

 

Any comments and all comments will be fully appreciated.

Also is there any site regarding this lens for portrait photography??

 

 

Cheers!!

 

 

Kit

I only use liquid developers like HC-110(Kodak) & Rodinal. It so easy to mix, unlike powder developers, it is too much of a hassle and messy. Different dilution give different looks, but I am still in the dark searching and trying hard to get the look I want.

 

I am looking for very grainy effect with high acutance and high contrast. Can you veterans out there give me some advice pls. I shoot 135, I have Neopan 400, Acros,TX, TMX, TMY, TMZ hybernating in my fridge.

 

BTW I was wondering how much do you guys pay for a bottle of Rodinal?? Right here in Tokyo I pay about US$8 for a small bottle( 125ml). I can hardly find a big bottle!! How I wish Rodinal will be cheaper here. Over here Fuji's stuff is cheap!!

 

Good Luck!!

 

 

Kit

Hi

 

I am very interested in this discussion. I would love to try to develope C-41 films in B&W soup. I have rolls of Kodak Gold 100, 200, Fuji Pro-400, etc. My main soup for my B&W is HC-110 and sometimes Rodinal.

 

It was stated that a contrasty developer is good, but I was wondering how should I develope in HC-110?? Could someone give me a hint how long I should develope in HC-110?? Btw I use a condenser enlarger, 135 film.

 

Also it was stated that it takes time to develope, is it a good idea to pull the film down ie to give the film more exposure so the developing time will be shorten??

 

Please give me a clue and I would really like to experiment!!!

 

Thanks,

 

Kit

I own a 50 F1.4 and a 100 F2.8 Macro USM. I love both lenses, as

both are really sharp, contrast and 'bokeh' is really beautiful.

Now I am looking for a wide prime lens. I was wondering what do you

guys recommend. My main is street photography and portraits. I am

thinking of using a wide lens to do street snapshots of people. With

a wide lens I know that I have to get close to the subject but I want

impact in my photos. So instead of using a tele I want to try using a

wide lens, communicate and get closer to the subject. Close up of

portraits with a wide lens (??) is what I have in mind.

 

There are so many choices of wide primes. 24mm, 28mm and 35mm. I was

wondering which is good for street photography and what suits me.

 

BTW I only shoot film and it is a EOS 1V.

 

Thanks for any advice in advance..

 

Cheers, Kit

Hi there

 

I use HC-110 as my main soup ,so far I have been only using dil.B. I

mainly shoot Neopan 400 and the dev time is 5min, 20C for IE 400 as

recomended.

 

I would like to try different dilutions, but unfortunately there are

no data available (even the massive dev chart doesn't have data other

than dil.B)

 

Could some one tell me what is the maths like for the time for

different dilutions. Also the more diluted HC-110 is, how does it

behave? I understand that the longer the dev time is, the higher the

contrast will be and the grain gets more obvious.

 

Btw I would also love to know the maths for the dev time for

pulling . How much time do I have to decrease when I pull by certain

IE??

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

KiT

Hi,

 

I use both Neopan 400 and 1600.

 

My main soup is HC-110 dil.B. I have tried D-76, the results are sharp, but I find it more grainy than HC-110. HC-110 is a bit more contrasty but I like the effect. The grain is fine to my eyes.

 

Right now I am perfecting Neopan 400 in a new soup, Rodinal.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me their experience with Rodinal with these films, how you rate them, the dev time and dilutions.

 

Maybe for the finest grain, you should try the 'ultra fine grain developer'(??) by Fuji called Microfine but I think it will be difficult to find it outside Japan. It is available in powder form to make 1L. Actually I have some Microfine with me but I am just too lazy to mix them up. I prefer HC-110 because it is a one shot dev and it is so easy to use.

 

How large will you be enlarging your prints??

 

Good luck!!!

Hi James,

 

I am now experimenting with TMY for street photography, but I do not get the results I want. I was wondering if you could do me a favour by telling me how you rate TMY for street photograhy, the dev time and temp. By the way I also use HC-110 as my main soup, dil.B.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Cheers,

 

Kit

Hi there guys,

 

I have posted this question before, but I would like to know a bit

more precise. Right now I have TMX, TMY, TX, Fuji Neopan 400, Fuji

Across 100, Forte 100, Forte 400 (all 135) sleeping in my fridge, and

HC-110, Rodinal as my main soup.

 

 

I was wondering what will you guys choose to use; film, soup and the

IE for the film I have above for studio portrait photography. I know

that everyone has their own preferences but I would like to know as a

reference, what to begin with. I am just an amateur, still searching

blindly and experimenting for the right film and soup for the

situation and the effect I want.

 

 

I will be doing a session in this weekend , any comments are most

welcome. Thank you in advance guys!!

 

 

Kit

Nathan,

 

Thanks for the prompt reply. Right now, my main soup is HC110 dil.B. My next soup for Tri-X will be Rodinal because I want it to be grainy (for certain effects). Actually I have been shooting Fortepan and Fuji Acros and Presto 400. So, Tri-X is still very new to me.

 

Will try Xtol, but it is a bit expensive here in Tokyo.

Btw, Rodinal is expensive too. A small bottle of 125ml Rodinal cost me US$7. I was wondering how much is the price is the States and Europe.

 

Regards,

 

Kit

>Nathan Dandar , jan 03, 2004; 08:39 p.m.

>I use Tri-X at 320, 35mm and 120. Its tones on skin is the main >reason I love it.

 

Hi Nathan,

 

I recently begin to shoot Tri-X at 320, 35mm, I was wondering what soup & time you use to develope your film. BTW do you shoot outdoor or indoor???

 

Thanks in advance!!

 

Kit

Hi guys,

 

I would like to know which film do you recommend for studio flash

photography(portrait,nude). I am using Forte400 and Fuji Neopan400

but I don't like the blown up highlights and I find very few shadow

details. Maybe it is due to the lightings. BTW I am using HC-110

(dil.B).

 

Do you think I should try pulling to get more shadow details??

 

What film is recommended for studio lighting and could you pls tell

me the soup for it as well (time and temp).

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Kit

Hi Mike,

 

I would personally suggest Fuji Neopan 400 or Tri-X. Do you consider shooting C-41 process films?? I would highly recommend XP-2 to you. What I usually do is I sometimes shoot XP-2 besides conventional b&w and get the local lab to dev for me. I can see the results on the spot. C-41 process is available everywhere and it is standard, therefore no worries about over or underdeveloping, unlike developing b&w where you get different results from different labs. Also it is cheap too to dev in SE Asia, I guess less than US$1.50 or so. With XP-2 you can shoot from ASA 200-800, and no worries about blown highlights due to the strong sunlights there. You can change the ASA too while you shoot, you can have 200-800 in the same roll of film.

 

Have fun and enjoy the yummy food too!!

Hymmm, reminding me about the food over there, it makes me hungry now!!

 

 

Kit

 

 

p/s; For you info, Thailand only allows 5 rolls of films per person. During my last visit there, I didn't know about it. Knowing it after I read the inflight mag and it was too late! I had about 40 rolls with me!! But thank god that the custom did not check on me and I was safe!!

 

 

 

 

Lorenzo: I love your shot. Could you please tell me what film and dev you used? Is it Tri-X?? I just love the grains....Thanks!

Arnad,

 

I would recommend Fuji Acros. As you are taking nature macros, I think ISO 50 will be difficult considering that winds will make your subject to move a little. Acros is ISO 100 and it is a very fine grained film. Good black and white tones and it has the modern look. It is one of my best loved films besides Presto 400.

 

I have tried some C-41 films and I find T400CN is not I am looking for. Try to give XP-2 a try. It is great.

 

 

Good Luck!!

 

 

Kit