steven_palmer1

Thanks for the suggestions. I have checked the USB ports and cables and they do work. I have re-installed the software (many) times and this does not help. I'm at a loss to understand what is going on. Any other ideas?

 

Thanks again.

 

Steve

I've been using my Nikon coolscan IV with XP Pro with no problems but now I am

using a computer running XP Home and after installing Nikon Scan software it

cant detect the scanner. I've checked all cables and am sure the problem is

not there. I do notice that when I plug the scanner USB cable into the computer

I get one of those "this is not right" sounds from the computer but no status

box appears on the screen so I dont know what it's trying to tell me. I've

tried all the USB ports and different cables and am sure they're all fine. If

anyone has any ideas of where the problem might be or at least where to start

looking, it would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

Oh, the message I get when trying to open Nikon Scan is "Nikon Scan was unable

to find any active devices".

 

Steve

Thanks everyone for the input. I didn't know about Agfa 160 but will look out for it. I think I'll try Portra NC and see what my scanner does with it.

 

Steve

For those out there who have used both films, I would simply like to know which

has the least contrast and saturation. I am looking for low saturation and

contrast. I have used Reala before and like it (although it is a bit stronger

in colour and saturation than I would like) but have never used any of the

Portra films and dont want to buy a box of 5 if it is "stronger" than Reala.

If there is a film lower in saturation and contrast than these two I would

appreciate knowing about it.

 

Thanks

 

Steve

The "SS" version is an old style emulsion, like Plus-X compared to T-Max. I have used it but not enough to offer any definate conclusions. Of the 2 I would choose Acros.

 

Steve

Jimee,

 

One recommendation I have is that, if possible, you choose a camera other than the N65. It's a good camera (I have one) but it does not allow you to select the ISO of the film you load, preventing you from up or down rating the film. This, as you will very quickly realize, is an essential aspect of working with black and white film. It's a shame because the N65 is a small, light, inexpensive and capable camera.

Akira, thanks very much for the info. I got lucky finding someone living in Sapporo. Since you have local knowlegde, if you can think of any places that are worth visiting during that time of year, it would be appreciated. I will be traveling around Hokkaido taking mostly landscape stuff. Also, what can I expect from the quality of the light at that time of year? I am yet to decide on what type of film to take so this will help me decide.

 

Regarding the Ilford film, I would have thought Yodobashi or Bic would stock it too but they dont list it on their website.

 

I've been to Honshu 3 times but this will be my first visit to Hokkaido. There is a good chance I will return during Winter as well. I am looking forward to it.

 

Thanks again.

 

Steve

I'm going to Sapporo in about 4 weeks and would like to know if someone can

point me in the direction of a good camera store to buy film. I'll be looking

for Velvia, Astia, Reala and UC 400, in 120.

 

Secondly, does anyone know if I can easily get Delta 100 in Japan. I've

checked a couple of the big camera stores (Bic and Yodobashi) and they dont list

Ilford film. I'm just wondering if I will need to take the supply with me.

 

And lastly, does anyone have any experience with the weather conditions in

Hokkaido during late June/early July?

 

Thanks.

 

Steve

Mine is to sacrifice the first two frames of a roll of 135 and then load it onto the reel in daylight then go into the darkroom and wind on the rest.

I developed some HP5+ shot at 800 last night in LC-29: (1+19 9.5 mins) I haven't printed the negs yet but they are higher in contrast than I would have expected from the conditions when taken. So, 9.5 mins appears to be a bit long. Next time I will reduce the time a bit. I will second what Frank said about Rodinal. I like Rodinal but not with HP5+.

Thanks Natasha and Jeff. I think I will go with the D-76 as anything else is unavailable. I am sorry to hear about the Paterson products as I really liked what I got from FX-39.

 

Steve

I have several rolls of Tri-X (400 TX) rated at 1600 and the only

developers I have are FX-39, Rodinal, D-76 and Microdol-X. I used

FX-39 today for the first time with Tri-X rated at 400 and liked the

results but I am not sure if it can be used for Tri-X at 1600. I

would appreciate advice on which of the developers above would be most

suitable for what I need. Times and dilutions would be a great help

also. I know there are other developers more suitable to pushing but

I cant buy them where I live so I am restricted to those mentioned.

 

One more thing. I have used Rodinal with Tri-X at 1600 before and

know what to expect. I like the result sometimes but am looking to

recover a little more shadow detail and less contrast. Thanks

 

Steve

Aaron, sometimes I create a "greycard" in photoshop by creating new document and filling it with a neutral grey (RGB 128, 128, 128) and then placing it in the image I am editing with the move tool. I make it small, about 1 inch x 1 inch, and then use the colour picker in curves to click on it and use it as a sample. It is on a separate layer so it is then easily turned off. It seemed to work ok the few times that I did it but I am not sure if there are situations where it would not work. Each time I have done it the image I was trying to correct showed an evenly and well lit scene so I dont know how it would go in different lighting conditions. It sounds too simple to be effective in all situations so therefore probably is.

 

Steve

Luca, I have the R210 which I believe is the same printer and there is no provision for black only printing. There is a greyscale option but that uses the colour inks.

 

Steve

Lilly, if 24mm at the wide end is what you want then search no more...there are only 3. The Nikon 8400 (already mentioned), the Sony R1 and the Kodak P880. You can check them all out at DPReview.

 

Steve

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

Steve

Regarding archival qualities of DVD's, I've read a few reviews and

recommendations but not all of those are available in Australia. So,

comparing the following which I have access to, can anyone recommend

one of the following brands for long life and stability?

 

Sony, TDK, Imation, Verbatim.

 

I have read good reviews on Mitsui and the new Fuji DVD's but I have

not seen these in Australia.

 

Thanks.

 

Steve

Thanks Ilkka.

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to do "Black Only" printing on

the Epson R800? I know with some Epson printers the driver does not

allow the option of selecting black ink only. For those that have

tried it, what do you think of the results?

 

Also, can the the R800 print on canvas?

 

Thanks.

 

Steve

Thanks guys. Just what I needed. I think I'll try and get some mylar tape and see how that goes.

 

Steve

I seem to remember reading somewhere that one could buy ISO Bar Code

stickers to place on film canisters without bar codes to enable the

DX function of the camera. Does anyone know where I could get some

of these as I am hoping to be able to over-ride the bar code on say,

an ISO 100 canister to make it read as ISO 50. (my camera does not

allow for manual setting of the ISO)

 

Thanks.

 

Steve

Once again, thanks for the tips. I have a few things to try now which is what I was hoping for.

 

John, thanks for the link. I'm going to try that and see how I go.

 

Steve

Well thanks for the suggestions and advice, everyone. Yes, I have practiced in daylight but still seem to have trouble. The suggestion of "easyload" reels is a good one and I will look for those. Also, the idea of pushing the the film on instead of winding had not occured to me so I'll give that a try as well. And finally, Mark, yes, I did extend the reel to 120 size. I had to laugh at that one, very good. I guess more practice is in order. Thanks again.

 

Steve

I have recently moved up to medium format and want to develop my B&W

film but I'm having a really difficult time getting the film onto the

developing reel. I have developed my own 35mm film for some time

now but the 120 is getting the better of me at the moment. It seems

to flex more easily than 135 and just pops out of the grooves of the

developing reel. Any suggestions or tips on getting the film to load

easily would be appreciated. As I said, I have developed 135 before

so I know how it goes but I just cant get the 120 onto the reel.

I'm using the plastic type of reel but would the metal reels be

better. Thanks.

 

Steve

Steve, I think what you are looking for can be found under File/Automate/Contact Sheet II, in PSCS. Very easy and automatic.

 

Steve