david_clark10

Hello all, on my Fuji GA645 zi the rear display (showing iso etc) is

slightly corrupt ie the lower parts of some digits are missing. It

doesn't prevent use of the camera but is quite annoying and setting

the date info etc is very difficult. When I open the film door the

missing bits reappear so there must be a loose connection. Any ideas

(are there any technical repair forums for this camera etc) or anyone

had a similar prob or know how to take the data back appart already

tried but doesn't seem to come appart and don't want to force it -

possibly a few more screws hidding?

The one I had seen was a really cheap Sigma 18-50mm, think I will just wait and get that one on the B&H link then I know I can use it on both film and digital, Armando any chance you could post a pic to see what is looks like on 35mm super widea angle? Cheers Dave

Hey all, I've had a 24-120VR for ages and use it with my D100 & F80.

Prob is would like something a bit wider for the D100. Seen various

Nikon/Sigma/Tamron.......DX, EX, DC variants and most say for

D100/D70/D1X/D2h etc. Are they compatible in any way with my F80 what

would happen if I used one ie a 18-35mm would there be terrible

vignetting, incomplete coverage or image loss etc?

Thanks for the feedback chaps very detailed which helps, I will suggest a dev change if poss (to Kodak maybe) and also dropping the stop and fix (although I expect he has already done this). Any other input welcome thanks!

Yes he can develope any b&w film with the same dev time next to a roll of D100 (ie 2 on 1 rack / side by side). The D100 will be streaked and the other will be fine. What is this bromide drag and is it that the ilford 120 emulsion structure and area just more prone to it? Also what is the cure? thanks for the help.

Hello all not posted for a while overseas doing some travel images.

Anyway trying to help out a friend in a pro-lab. He is having a prob

with streaks on b&w film for the last few months. The streaks aren't

water marks etc as they can't be washed off after processing even

with wetting agent. They are on the emulsion side and they are

dull/grey in colour (not light fogging). He uses ID-11 with hand

(dunk style / deep tank) aggitation and always has and it is only

present on Ilford 120 film mostly Delta 100 - no others makes 35mm or

120. He can even process Tmax 100 next to a roll of D100 and it is

fine. At the moment he is having to prewash the films in water prior

to development and this prevents the streaks completey. However it

means more handling of the film in the dark and occasional scratches

even with extreme care. So he is looking for a solution - I drew a

blank as did Ilford who have also been contacted (but weren't overly

helpful). Any suggestions would be much appreciated - has the make-up

of ID-11 changed recently? - even a site or forum worth trying - (no

offence to photo.net, its always came up tops for me on advice!)

Hello, I have a lot of 35mm slide films to process does anyone know

of a good mail order service thats cheap in Australia or somewhere

in Sydney/Canberra ie equivalent of 7dayshop.com (uk) or that sort

of idea? Cheers Dave

sorry posting that too late I am going to melrose but meant Melbourne!

thanks for the great replies and links guys unfortunately I missed them the first time round as my computer was down for a while and when it came back photo.net was down anyway cheers. Any other info keep it coming!

Ah Jay very good point about the exposure compensation - that hadn't occured to me yet - doh! What is an Orange +1 if that? Also excellent idea about using 72mm step up! Thanks for the help guys great stuff.

Hello all, I have just started to use a Fuji GA645 zi. My question is

how do you / can you....use a polarizing filter with it. As you can't

see what effect the filter is having because your not looking

throught the lens? Also what would be a good alternative filter for

more dramatic / darker skies on B&W films - a middle yellow? Cheers

Hey all this thread was lost in the big crash - I would be greatful

if you could re-reply:

I am leaving for Brisbane at the end of the month and I am taking my

Nikon SLR (+24-120mm) and a Fuji MF Rangefinder. I have never

travelled overseas with medium format before and therefore haven't

had to worry about roll film. I assume it won't like airport xray

machines so I plan to buy it in Australia, can anyone recommend any

good stores that sell roll film in Brisbane, Sydney or Melrose. Also

for the same reason I will have to get it developed out there any

good places for B&W processing? Lastly I'm hoping to take the two

cameras as carry-on will this be okay? Any other tips / info would be

appreciated. cheers Dave C

sorry pics didn't quite work, taken from my site as having probs with Adobe see more at my site www.dcppro.com

David B - I'm travelling to Australia (Sydney 1st). I normally use a Mamiya but decided to just take my Nikon and 24-120mm. Then got a Fuji GA645zi cheap on ebay which is slightly more versatile than the Mamiya. Below are 2 shots with the Mamiya both with the Red 25. It seems to suit some situations not others. Will try some filters before I leave, will I be able to test them on a D100 (digital SLR) as I'm running out of time? Will get a few books to and read up. I think my main problem is knowing what filter to use in what situation?

Hey all, I'am about to go travelling shortly and I'm having

difficulty with filters. I mostly use Fuji Acros 100 or Ilford Delta

100 (using 120 roll film). I'm trying to achieve a good tonal range,

contrast and dark blue skies. I'm not very sure what filter(s) to

use. I've tried red but made the negs very contrasty and hard to

print. Someone advised yellow to incease definition, any suggestions.

I saw some posts afew threads down saying yellow had little affect on

some films?

I would call Nikon, I don't think there is a "fault" so to speak with either, its more likely that the D100 doesn't support a 2GB CF card. The Nikon service centre is the best route to go their pretty honest, anyone else will just say they don't know or it won't work! It maybe the D100's pcb heatsink can't cope with the heat coming off from the card as it will generate more heat than a 1GB drive (due to the moving parts that are not present in type 1 cf cards). Has anyone succesfully used a 2GB with D100?

All Nikon Lenses here:

 

http://home.aut.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon.html

I had both a D1 and D100 (only just sold the D1). I think what a few people are getting at is, although the D1 gets you from A to B better/quicker than the D100 it has limitations when it gets there ie the resolution. I found that profesionally fewer and fewer places (media wise ie papers) accept the quality from the D1 output even on Raw. I was quite often having good images turned down because they couldn't crop or blow the photos up, big enough without serious pixelation. Magazines won't even touch the D1 for file size now. A used D100 won't be much more on ebay and will be so worth it, if your having to shot a 36exp in 9secs or whatever the F5 does then get one, at the end of the day the buffer will still limit you on any Dslr's my advice get a D100 and improve you timing!

not quite so close up........

If you've jumped from an S-50 to that kit then I'm not surprised your disappointed with the results. It took me several weeks to get used to the D100 and I have had other Dslr's, let alone mixing it with the SB-800. People have noted a few basic pointers......such as what is wrong more specifically? But the main points are: don't use the auto white balance (its awful) set it to the lighting conditions you are in, set the sharpening to normal in the menu and sharpen images via photoshop or similar software, add +0.3 (or as mentioned +0.7) exposure compensation this will improve the images tonal range a bit, set a reasonable iso such as 400. If it is the print that looks bad (not the monitor image) you may have to consider a better printer, if you print at home. If none of that makes sense then you better do some deep reading on digital photography and slr's

Richard on glass plate idea.....certain Canons are less prone to obvious dust marks because they have a said screen/filter several mm infront of the main CCD. Can't remember what its for, possibly anti-moire but it definitely makes the same amount of dust less visable than the D100 and D1 not sure on other models (as I don't own them). Nikon CCD's use the same / similar screen but it is actually attached to the CCD or there is no gap between, hence the dust is often more visable.

Hey all, I picked this up from a friend and don't claim to have

thought it up but seems like a good idea........When changing lenses

on a digital SLR change them inside a clear plastic bag (like those

new hifi's etc come in). It means the static in the bag will attract

the dust and in theory reduce the amount going into the camera

shutter area and in turn onto the CCD. More help indoors in a dusty

environment but I've been doing it and will soon know if it works. I

get the CCD cleaned frequently at the moment on my D100 nd D1X and

find this expensive so always looking for ways around the problem.

Any other hint appreciated...........

would better just to do a no words here but......I have a few examples on my site (below) all the car movement shots (4) were done with a D100 (on a rig) as were the last 2 shots on the gallery page. Very versatile camera and love it, use it instead of polaroid on mf & 5x4 and reckon its paid for iteself already! www.dcppro.com (sorry seems a bit slow tonight must be the server.) If you wanting more specific shots ie people just say.............

well I had a D1 on a worldwide warranty and the Uk service centre wouldn't touch it. Might just be my experience and other people have been ok.

well as a brit and with over 5 years in the photographic equip industry I would like to be able to disagree with what you are saying but unfortunately I can't. I only really noticed a big difference when I turned to taking photos professionally and the need for fast expensive lenses became, well, expensive. There is a definite market but their is a reason it hasn't already been filled and thats because of the warranty situation and how a worldwide warranty isn't really worth the paper its written on. In the mean time all I can do is wait for my next trip to NY and fill my pockets with kit, which customs don't seem to like for some reason. The first person that can import cheaply and have a genuine warranty to show for it will make a lot of money! Mean time just have to watch ebay. ;-)