david_clark10

We can only speculate on the F6 and it is entertaining. The problem with the F5 is it has everything anyone needs feature wise but its getting dated now. So I reckon within the next year or so we will hear whether Nikon will replace it, cease production or continue. maybe even the release of the FD6 multi medium. I like the idea of digi chips for any SLR. The main problem seems to be producing a CCD and processor that will fit into the film chamber. A couple of years back I read in a digital magazine a company were designing a unit that would fit without modifying the film door. It looked like a film cassette with 4 inches of film hanging out, the film was about 4mm deep and housed the CCD. Only problem was it had no image preview however it benefitted that its power source was much smaller. . Its battery pack went onto the base of the camera and was the same size as a MB10 (grip) etc, connected to the chip via a thin ribbon cable. Obviously never worked or would have heard by now. . I supposse this is what the the Kodak Dsc / dcs? backs for the F90x eos 1n etc were. But they were to big adding a good 5 inches onto the camera height making it heavier too. The digi backs for medium format are easier because there is more room to play with. Hence the Hasselblad newest multi media mentioned above

Silly me never thought of that.... camera will be useless if I can't use it on manual. Whats the going US price for the lens (high street)

Hello I have been offered the Nikon 24-120mm VR ED G at £399.99 /

$658.90 New which I think is quite a good price, I really want it or

similar for travelling. However I want to avoid changing my F90x,

especially down grading to the F80. So don't suggest that..... I know

there will be a lot of people saying it won't be down grading because

of...etc etc, but I don't think its as well built as the F90. Anyway

what I want to know is; what is it like in comparison to the older 24-

120mm and is anyone using it on a F90x. can you put up without being

able to use the aperture ring or is it annoying?

Was getting carryed away with the whole digital thing when I managed

to pick a an FM2 body. I love it, its really making me think again!

Anyway is there anywhere instructions can be downloaded from. Also

been using my 80-200 2.8ed and 50 1.8 on it this won't cause any

problrms will it?. Cheers

Hello Ed, it is not possible for a user to recalibrate the meter themselves as expensive software is needed. It is usually bench tested and adjusted after maunufacturing using special equipment by Nikon. Obviously with such a large number of cameras produced it is to be expected that a couple are slightly out even with Nikons high quality control. I would have thought that recalibration would not be too costly as no parts are required assuming it has not been dropped etc. I assume your monitor, printer and software are all set up correctly. They can often be one of the main causes of poor output.

Cheers

A bit bigger car<div></div>

One of the biggest problems is when you are travelling alone if there is the slightest question of security; either just take one lens or make sure someone else is with you ideally a guide. They can carry a lens or two, to split up the equipment. You are most vaunerable when you are looking through the camera to take a photo, you can't see what is going on behind you, unless someone else is with you. I bet not many people have seen a camera stolen by a monkey but it happened to one of my friends in a busy market! The biggest give-away are the camera bags. Avoid any with trade names on them if they do, take the lable off. Crumpler make a good range of bags that don't really look like camera bags but in some international regions are still a bit of a give away. One of my well travelled friends now covers his cameras in varying camouflage to try to make it look cheap or old such as duck tape etc. Tape over the camera name etc. Doesn't look good but it can be removed and you not going there to pose. The people I know that have had equipment stolen it tended to be they themselves that drew attention to the equipment, rather than the actual equipment itself. Try to blend in with your evironment. Anyway hope you have a good trip when you go.

The Sigma lens will give (break) before the D100. Had an F5 in last week that had been dropped 8ft with a Sigma 28-70 2.8ED on it. The lens gave & the mount still looks new and unbent. I don't want want to say what the correct repair technique is for a jammed aftermarket lens is because I don't know. However just send it away (don't be tempted to force it or add oil to loosen it) that only works when you have a cooking pot stuck on your head lol. There is too much expensive parts that can be damaged, forcing it could damage the shutter blades or worse the ccd behind. The repair centre will know what to do. They may go in from the back taking out parts.

How long is a piece of string........ This camera will easily out live 22 years. Send it away for a service and it will do another twenty! Servicing is the only way of finding out if the shutter if firing correctly through the range of speeds.

After great help with my previous question on travel equipment, plus

seeing Roberto's question. I have decided to keep the F90x and SB-22.

However I still only want to take one lens. So I pose the question

you are stranded with one lens.....what would it be?

PS (the Natives seem quite friendly)

Thanks for the feedback - keep it coming.

Thing is when I get back I hope to get a D100 or maybe on the way home. The whole G lens thing is really annoying me because they won't let me control the apertures on the F90x. Don't get me wrong I like my F90 just thought it was time to change, especially as I think Nikon are slowly phasing out the aperture ring? The 50mm f1.8 is probably my favorite lens, the cheapest lens Nikon sells new now and still beats the quality of the low quality zooms. They should go back to selling the 50mm as part of the kit instead of the cheap 28-105G (it would make people think more as well!).

I have just finished uni (in the uk) and I am planning on travelling

for 6 months to a year mainly around the US. I currently have a D1,

and F90x with a SB-22s, 28-200mm Sigma, 28-80mm f4-5.6, 80-200mm

f2.8ed & 50mm f1.8 Nikon. I intend to replace all of the kit appart

from the D1 and 80-200mm which I will keep for when I come home (they

are too bulky to take with me and are to expensive to replace at the

moment).

I would like suggestions as to what kit I should take travelling. My

budget is about £1000 / $1800 (new or used). I was personally

considering an F100 and 24-85mm GSED. I am very critical when it

comes to sharpness and have been dissappointed with my Sigma 28-200mm

(you get what you pay for I suppose). Any feedback on people who

travel frequently would be good. I don't like juggling a lot of kit;

a body, lens and flash is really all I want. Also I think the F5 is a

bit big but maybe you can prove me wrong? I originally wanted to take

my medium format as well but have been warned against this, incase it

gets stolen.

Yes this is true you can clean the CCD yourself it is best done with a blower occasionally and the CCD swabs are ok for seldom use with larger dust particles. The best way to do it is a couple of strokes in one direction (longways , horizontally) gently to much can put fine scratches on the CCD glass. Another thing some people seem to ignore when working with digital SLR's is that they can't be left with the lens off like traditional film SLR's. This is when the dust enters the CCD chamber so you should really always have a lens or body cap on all the time. Also Nikon recommends that the lens is best changed with the front of the camera facing down or at a low downward angle, again preventing dust getting in.

Don't get into the habit of over regular CCD cleaning.

No problem Armando, I've just finished uni and I am spending the end of this year and most of next in the US anywhere you would highly recommend for sports images??

Thanks Lex, just curious!

I know it no words etc....... but I don't get the subtle under-tones of this is I because I'm from the UK? or aren't there any?

Hello I have recently come across two older metered Nikon prisms.

Firstly I am trying to find out what batteries they take and secondly

how to test them.

The first is a Photomic T finder, the second a Photomic FTn finder.

Any information would be of use, because if they work I may consider

buying a body for one of them as I have always fancied one of the

older F series. Also what is their approximate value, they are in

good condition boxed.

I had just finished charging my battery and disconnected it from the

charger. The orange "power" light stayed illuminated for a couple of

seconds then it clicked off. Now the unit will not power up?

Hello Andrew, we've been stocking the F/ N75 for a short time but are getting

good feedback on it. However I would say that have a good hold of one

before you buy it, it has quite a small grip which can be a bit ackward. Not in

reference to this camera but............I have seen people on a few occasions

buying cameras purely on spec and functions and coming back with it a week

later saying they don't like the way it feels. All modern cameras are very

ergonomical and some suit people better than others choose the right one for

you. If you are wanting to save money and weight also consider the F/ N65

which is sort of being phased out and is avaliable at very competitive prices, it

may be all you need. The 50mm f1.8 (newest AFd that is) is a lovely lens, I

think very under-rated mine is my favourite lens and funnily it is the cheapest

lens I have, you can get them very cheap new. Sorry can't say much about

"quantaray" I'm in the uk and have never heard of them. However I would say

keep the lens you are being offered and buy a better Nikon prime ie the

50mm later.

Nice Joseph- I wil be using that at the next board meeting!

 

So when is one stupid, when one is ignorant in all areas?

My personal moto is to never keep a bad image or show one to anybody! Out of 36exp you may have up to 10 or less good images, the rest middle ground and bad. Ditch the bad staight away then you can sort through the middle groung getting rid of others that may have slight camera shake, poor exposure and focusing softness. There is no harm in keeping the rest as well as the good, because you never know when you might need it for reference etc.

Any info regarding the Quantum X2's would be helpful. I have just

borrowed 2 and a 400 powerpack but they don't seem to be sync-ing

with each other.

Sergije I had a similar prob with product shots the great advantage of the D100 is you can rattle off the shots very quickly without the cost of polaroid. However i have found that as soon as you need better quality it cannot touch the quality of the Linhof when you want to enlarge above 10x8 for sharpness. I get the best results from the RB67 and Nikon 8000 scanner. I Considered digital scanning backs for the medium format and the Sinar but they are completely non cost effective even renting. Also the scanning / digital backs have a bit to go technology wise yet, there are to many other options to explore before I would buy one.

So basically the D100 won't be sharp enough also with boxes / packaging any converging verticals etc will be excentuated more so than with the Linhof.

Here here William, the techno speak can be quite intimidating to some and well, technical! A few photos break it up nicely I love the little title topics followed by people interpretations, reflections etc. Even better if its been taken on a Nikon.

How new is your D100? Obviously if it is still under warranty get it back asap. Otherwise take it to a Nikon Dealer (or where you bought it) and plead your case. They are as Carl says usually due to a manufacturing defect and not time (not on a newer camera like this anyway). For this reason Nikon may replace it at a reduced charge maybe even free. Don't phone because they can fob you of more easily. If you can't afford to lose it for a week or more and you can put up with PSing images then you'll have to put up with it. Your CCD needs cleaned anyway for that dust.

Getting dust on the CCD's is a pain and is best avoided by having ideally a lens (or cap) on the camera body all the time, I had to get into this habit as I used to go from job to job with a couple of 35mm bodies in my bag with the mirrors exposed.