david_clark10

Natalie the D1 and the F90x has the same (well similar as with a few other Nikons) aperature recognition system. This usually fails when the tab on the ring that sits behind the metal lens plate is snapped off. This means that when the lens is engaged it won't read the aperature. It is often broken off when someone not used to the reverse lock on Nikon lenses forces a lens on at the wron angle / direction. The tab is exactly the same as the one seen on the D1 in the picture, (sorry can't be bothered taking one of my F90x, but will if it helps) so check if the tab is present. If it is there then the problem is deeper. If its not there then basically you can forget about changing the aperature till it is fixed. However you say the camera seems fine when its on Shutter priority - unfortunately it probably won't be. Because the lens moves this tab about 5mm when it is engaged so that it recognises the lens. The cure for this is to mark where the lens would move the tab to(say at f5.6) and the move it manually then lock it with blue tack this mean the camera will now work on Shutter priority or on Aperature priority at f5.6 at least do for next week. Sounds quite complicated but its a quick cure and should work - will post more if you want be see the photos for more info. Cheers PS it wasn't too bad to fix price wise!

Yes I would go for daylight to. Or alternatively bounce the flash (off a low white ceiling or piece or card) to try to soften the light. Using harsh flash straight onto the bags will mean that it will be hard to see anything inside past the harsh reflections of the flash. If you are getting an off camera flash cord, then take the flash to one side and bounce it - otherwise either way you will be too close. The reason the flash has a minimum distance is because - it is quite high on the camera so the closer you get to the subject the less area the flash will cover. Normally you would use a ring flash for this type of situation. I don't really understand the set up as normally this would be done in a lab environment in dishes (the bags make it near impossible to avoid the reflections you are getting) with a macro lens and ring flash this way any abnormalities would be clearly seen. With this work slide film is always used to keep colours constant. Good luck

try again.....28-80mmD Mk2

That was the last version of the 28-80mm before the G series came in. Appart from the build you don't actually say whats wrong with it. Unless something has broken or is faulty then its unlikely the buyer will give you your money back - or unless he has mis-represented the lenses spec or condition. I have both this and the older version lens and an F90X. I would say the quality of the equivalent G lens is actually worse than this - especially opticaly its awful. Also worth noting (although you may already know) is that the F90x won't work fully with G lenses. You will loose out on aperature priority and fully manual (as well as other functions). Give it a try I have very expensive ED lenses and although it can't really match the fast aperatures, its by no means the worst lens I have used and gives acceptable results.

You will probably have to buy the complete pcb if you get it from Nikon Spares Centre. Otherwise you might get the individual component from radio shack or maplin etc

This is what I wasn't sure about so to get any TTL I have to get the DX? I hadn't even condsidered the S2 - I used an S1 for a while but was very dissapointed with the huge amount of noise on longer exposures, this followed by the fact I was caught out when the 2x cr123a's ran out leaving the camera powerless on a shoot(seemed crazy to use to different sets of batteries). Hence went for the D1. How does Auto vary from TTL is it just loss of balanced fill-in?

Hello All, I have a D1 and I am planning on getting a D100 soon. At

the moment when I put my Sigma flash on it just makes the flash

symbol blink and will only fire in manual mode (manual shutter and

aperature). I have a lot of flashes (none suitable unfortunately) and

at the moment can't budget a huge amount for a SB28(DX) or SB80DX. I

have seen all the others at reasonable prices what would you

recommend, I was mainly looking at a 24, 25 or SB26. I have already

ruled out the 50DX as it uses CR123a's which are expensive. Any help

much appreciated. cheers

having spent the last 4 years on the other side of the counter.....I know exactly what these salesmen are like but it takes two to tango. The worst customers are the ones that walk in thinking they know more than you - admitedly some do. However on the point that why are salesmen not practising pro photography instead of selling it well - it funded me through 4 years of uni.

The F90x is definitely taking its age better than the Eos 5. Just today I had another 5 come in with the mode dial fault and 2 weeks ago one with a wind transport problem. They don't stand up to semi-pro use nearly as well as the F90x. However the Eos 3 is a much better camera with better build but possibly with too many gadgets?

Hello, I have one. I use it with both my F90x and my D1 (on manual) as a back up to my Nikon speedlight. It is very, very easy to use and fully automatic which is why I got it. It has a power zoom and only 4 settings on the back: off, ttl, manual high and manual low. I have good results with it, unfortunately it won't work ttl on Nikon digital slrs. It can't be controlled as manually as the sb-26. But has a good guide number for most subjects. The zoom is 28-80mm.

Killin (Scotland) January. F90x + 28-80 + Kodak Elitechrome 200<div></div>

cheers for the info B&H seems very highly regarded will pay them a visit, but have checked their website and it is definitely out of stock. Not sure whats going on with this lens. One company in the UK have got loads of them and they were at a very good price last month and I should have grabbed one. But all of a sudden its gone up by over £200 which makes me wonder if there original price was wrong? Another company (the biggest in the UK - almost, has never heard of it?? Sorry really don't want to start another long thread but would the old 24-120D be just as good?

Calling all New Yorkers - Hello, I need a really big favour... I am

going to New York for a couple of days next week and want to know

where the best / cheapest place to go for a Nikon 24-120 VR ED G is?

I have been told that I can get it a lot cheaper than in the UK where

it retails for about £450.00. Is this true and if so where should I

go. Would greatly appreciate the help.

Cheers David C

this shows the tab at the lens aperture dial.

I had this problem when - the little tab that recognises the aperatue on non G (ie D) lenses was broken off its collar. And the camera won't work otherwise using D lenses. Its very hard to see where its broken off from without looking hard so see picture (you should see 5mm of fresh metal on the collar edge). The way around this if your are on holiday, in the field etc.... Is to put the D lens on the camera and set it to f22 then mark where the lens should rotate the tab to (again see picture). Take the lens off and manually rotate the collar (difficult as there is little to hold) to the marked position and lock it with blue tack etc. It happened to me when a non nikon user didn't know about the reverse lock on nikon lenses and crunched one on breaking the tab off!

See picture it explains it better...or ask for more info. PS was quickly and easily fixed not to expensive either (in Nikon terms haha)

Hello all, I am planning a trip to America after August. I am looking

for contacts with photographers ideally assisting. But can do

anything I have just finished a 4 year course in proffessional

photography and imaging (covered digital & all formats up to 5x4

etc). Also I can operate, mantain and service processing labs. I will

work in any medium but I am particularly interested in Car

photography. Any help would be much appreciated as the person I was

planning on going with has pulled out and will need . And also if I

am planning on working I must state that before I leave. Also anyone

who has travelled from the UK to the US recently for more than a

month I would like to hear from.

Had this problem with an Eos 3 and the Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 EX. Symptoms were very similar worked on any camera without fault except on the Eos 3 then it had unpredictable focussing. Got rid of the lens pretty quickly no time to waste with it being away for repair/checked etc.

The fact is as good as aftermarket lenses are (and the EX range are great) at the end of the day they just aren't as good as the real thing mainly because they are made to work essentially with such a wide range of brands with only minor changes.

Just seen the D2H it looks more F100 chasis based than F5? PS sticking with my D1 as I'm waiting for at least a high speed 6mp before changing.

Do you have a cheap filter uv / skylight / polariser etc on the lens?

Re David Blackburn, not sure what you mean about the polygonal lines at the bottom please explain. This is a lens 80-200 f2.8 ED MK1 I use for sport etc I have never taken much close-up images it just happened while I was sitting on a verge waiting for two hot air balloons to go over I started shooting the bees landing on flowers. It was wide open with no lens hood uv filter shooting into the setting sun.

Nikon D1 80-200 f2.8 (at iso 400, 1/2000sec, f2.8)

Painting with light; Nikon F90x, 50mm f1.8 at F22, 30sec exposure, lit with light brush and coloured filters.

close up here

Thanks David H,

Had a look under the base plate turns out there is a small black disk with a lever which has worn meaning it does not lock after winding on. Don't know if I can get the part anywhere (UK). But would like to fix it. Photos attached. PS yes did try to tighten those little screws but they were fine (and made of very soft metal).

Thanks for the help all, any suggestions on the part location would be good.<div></div>

Hi put a message on a couple of days back saying I had picked up a

cheap FM2. Anyway just got the first film back and pretty happy with

the results the meter is spot on. However looking at the negs I

notice that the spacing of a few frames approx 8 out of 36 touch with

no gap. There is no regularity like every 3rd frame etc. So I was

playing about with it with no film. I found that when you wind on and

let the lever spring back it locks and gives a further 1/3 cock or

less. Before you fire the shutter. However when you allow the lever

to return gently each time after winding on you seem to be able to

wind on 6 or more times as if something isn't returning or locking in

place. Any ideas. I'm not that bothered as it was just a bit of cheap

fun for the summer evenings when I'm out and about. I'm fairly

technically minded so if their is maybe something that can be

adjusted or loosened or pushed then let me know (such as under the

base plate).