john_narsuitus

<p>When you remove the Nikon F2 viewfinder and view screen while the camera is loaded with film. your film is safe.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Question 1: Which particular automated features of theirs, if any, did you definitely <strong><em>not</em></strong> care for?<br />Question 2: Which two or three models, if any, were your favorites? (And do care to say why?)</p> </blockquote> <p>The Canon Sure Shot and the Nikon L35AF are my favorite 35mm point and shoot cameras. Both are motorized, auto-focus, auto-exposure cameras. The only feature I disliked was the Canon not being as reliable as the Nikon.</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"Are you the only wedding photographer not just using a 24-70 f2.8 zoom?"</p> </blockquote> <p>No, I also do not use the 24-70mm f/2.8. I use the older 35-70mm f/2.8 instead. I never upgraded because the 24-70 is a G lens that lacks the aperture ring that I need for proper exposure control on my older Nikon film cameras. In addition to the 35-70mm, I also use the older 20-35mm f/2.8 Nikon zoom.</p> <p>I do, however, carry the 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, and 105mm prime lenses as backup lenses for my backup body. </p>

<blockquote> <p>"What are your recommendations for other lenses to purchase that work well with portrait photography, and close ups on faces, like eyes, lips, etc?"<br /><br /></p> </blockquote> <p>The 105mm f/2.8 Nikon micro lens is my first choice and the 55mm f/3.5 is my second choice. Both are older manual focus lenses.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"John, apart from the size and weight difference, do you see any advantage IQ-wise in the prime 14mm f/2.8?"</p> </blockquote> <p>Rodeo Joe,</p> <p>During controlled tests, I noticed a significant difference in image quality between the zoom and two of my older Nikon prime lenses (18mm f/3.5 and 24mm f/2). I was surprised to discover that at the same focal length, the zoom had better image quality than my old primes.</p> <p>I have not performed any controlled tests to compare the image quality of the zoom and the 14mm; however, during routine usage, I have noticed no significant differences in image quality. They both produce high quality images.</p> <p>The significant difference for me between the zoom and the 14mm is that the 14mm has the aperture ring that my older Nikon F2 film cameras need for proper exposure control. The zoom lacks this important feature.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"Actually, who does use a 14mm and 50mm lens (or for that matter a 14-24mm and 50mm) ?"</p> </blockquote> <p>I own and use 14-24mm f/2.8, 14mm f/2.8, 24mm f/2, 28mm f/2.8, and 50mm f/1.4 Nikon lenses. However, I rarely pair the 14mm with the 50mm or the 14-24mm with the 50mm.<br /><br /> </div>

<p>When I shot weddings with film, I used a medium format camera with a normal lens that was similar in angle-of-view to the 50mm on an FX body. I also used a wide angle lens that was similar in angle-of-view to the 28mm on an FX bodyl</p>

<p>Andrew & Eric,</p> <p>Sorry about the misinformation. I remember looking at a fast wide-angle lens that I thought was a Sigma and remember it as my first encounter with a clutch lens.</p> <p>I stand corrected.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"With bird photography, the dilemma is always getting more reach, especially when photographing birds of prey or slightly shy birds..."</p> </blockquote> <p>I would love to have some of the lenses mentioned in this thread. However, I do not shoot birds that often and I too must use what I have. I have and use the following manual focus lenses on a sturdy tripod with a gimbal head:</p> <p>Nikon 1000mm f/11 mirror -- this lens has only one slow f/stop and displays donut holes in the out-of-focus areas. However, the 1000mm reach and relatively small size sometimes offsets its deficiencies.</p> <p>Nikon 500mm f/4 IF-ED P -- the fast f/stop and 500mm reach make this my lens-of-choice for bird shooting.</p> <p>Nikon 400mm f/5.6 IF-ED -- its smaller size and lighter weight occasionally makes this lens a decent substitute for the 500mm.</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <h1>"Would you be interested in some light travel primes?"</h1> </blockquote> <p>No, not for my full frame SLR bodies.</p> <p>The SLR is my workhorse. I use it because it is well-built, reliable, dependable, rugged, flexible, and precise. I do not care how big or how heavy it is as long as I can count on it to capture the images I need.</p> <p>The Nikon N70/F70 is my smallest and lightest Nikon SLR. I can carry it with a 50mm f/1.8 Series E, a 75-150mm f/3.5 Series E, and a 28mm f/2.8 Vivitar when I need to travel with a small, light, expendable Nikon SLR.</p> <p>However, when I really need to travel with a light photographic load, I carry a compact camera with only one, two, or a maximum of three lenses.</p> <p>If the compact is too heavy, I just carry a cell phone camera.</p> <p> </p>

<p>The Sigma 35mm f/1.4 auto focus Art lens is a well built lens with excellent image quality. Once, I considered replacing my 35mm manual focus Nikon lens with the Art lens but decided against it for the following reasons that are important to me:</p> <p>1. The Art lens does not have an aperture ring. I need an aperture ring so I can use the lens on my older cameras that require one for exposure control.</p> <p>2. I have two non-Nikon lenses that use a clutch to switch between manual focus and auto focus. I am not a big fan of clutch focus lenses. The Art lens is a clutch focus lens.</p> <p>3. The manual focus ring of the Art lens rotates in the opposite direction as my Nikon lenses. I prefer all my lenses to rotate in the same direction.</p>

<blockquote> <p>" And, what do you think? Would you rather have a 50 ?"</p> </blockquote> <p>I have a Nikon 50mm f/1.4 auto focus and a Nikon 50mm f/1.8 manual focus.</p> <p>However, I prefer the angle-of-view of the 35mm f/1.4 because it is a better fit with my shooting style.</p> <p>I also have the Nikon 35-70mm f/2.8 auto focus but I keep it in reserve on my backup camera because I prefer shooting with smaller and 2-stop faster 35mm f/1.4.</p> <p> <div></div>

<p>I use the Nikon 35mm f/1.4 between a Nikon 24mm f/2 and a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 on an FX body.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"Most modern 35mm SLR without a light meter?"</p> </blockquote> <p>Nikon F2</p> <div></div>

<blockquote> <p>"What would you want from a Nikon FX mirrorless?"</p> </blockquote> <p> Nothing!</p> <p>I invested in a Fuji mirrorless system because I could not wait for Nikon.</p>

<p>Years ago, I stopped reading the Wall Street Journal and now I am glad I did.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"So I mainly use Fuji Mirrorless. Like it a lot. However, for soccer, which I have to shoot a fair amount of, it's simply insufficient. I have a 70-200 VR II on the way. Need a body to use it on. I am pretty sure I am going to want to use the TC-20E III with it." </p> </blockquote> <p>I too use Fuji Mirrorless and like it a lot.</p> <p>I do not have a 70-200 VR II but I do have a Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 which has auto focus but not vibration reduction. I also use a TC-17E II when I need an auto focus teleconverter.</p> <p>If I had to get a new body for shooting soccer, I would get the Nikon D810.</p> <p> </p>

<blockquote> <p>"Which would you suggest and why?"</p> </blockquote> <p>To better help you in your decision making process, I suggest that you first answer a few questions such as:</p> <p>Exactly what is the relationship between your travel and your photography?</p> <p>Other than the convenience of a digital, what made you decide on a mirrorless instead of some other type?</p> <p>What camera features to you need or prefer? </p> <p>What type of photography do you shoot now or what type of photography do you want to shoot?</p> <p>How do you now or how do you plan on presenting your photographic images?</p> <p> </p>

<p>Arthur Plumpton,</p> <p>What do you think of shooting in color and using editing software to convert the different colors to the desired B&W tone?</p> <p> </p>

<p>I have a complete set of Nikon view screens (22 total) and a couple of Beattie screens for the Nikon F and F2.</p> <p>When I was young with good eyesight, the best screen for me was the "B" screen for general shooting. As my eyesight failed, I found it easier to accurately focus with the “A” screen.</p> <p>I use other screens when the circumstances warrant. For example, if I am doing a lot of 35mm architectural work, I will use the grid lines on the “E” or “R” screens.</p> <p>For astrophotography, I prefer the “M” screen.</p> <p> </div>

<p>18-55 + 55-300</p>

<p>In the 1960s, my first SLR was a Miranda Sensorex.</p> <p>If the Canon F1, Olympus OM1, or Pentax 645 had been in existence in the 1960s, I would have considered using them. Instead, I chose the Miranda Sensorex as my first SLR. When I started working for a newspaper, the other photographers were using Nikon F, Leica, and Rolleiflex. I traded my Sensorex for a Nikon F so I could borrow their lenses.</p> <p>In the 1970s, I traded my Nikon F for a Nikon F2. I normally carried the Nikon F2 with a 35mm f/2, an 85mm f/1.8, and a 180mm f/2.8. I carried these items plus a Vivitar 283 flash, a handheld light meter, and a few rolls of b&w film in a small army surplus bag on a 650cc BSA motorcycle.</p> <p>The F2 body and the 85 and 180mm lenses shown in this photo have survived years of use and abuse. The 85mm f/1.8 was the second Nikon lens I purchased and the 180mm was the third. Both were originally pre-AI lenses that I had AI’d by Nikon.</p> <p>The 35mm f/2 lens was the first Nikon lens I purchased. It too was AI’d by Nikon. However, since it was the lens I used the most, it received a lot more wear and tear than the other equipment. I had to replace it twice – once with another 35mm f/2 and eventually with the 35mm f/1.4 shown in this photo.</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <h1>Traveling light - what to take for a mid-range tele?</h1> </blockquote> <p>Of the mid-range telephoto lenses I own, I would choose one of these two:<br />(A) Tamron 28-200mm f/3.8 - f/5.6<br />(B) Nikkor 75-150mm Series E Zoom f/3.5</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <h1>DSLR vs P&S</h1> </blockquote> <p>I recommend that your friend try a true point & shoot camera for less than $100 until he has a good idea of what his photographic needs and preferences are.</p> <p> </div>

<p>Glad you were able to make a decision.<br /><br />When you decide to dive into medium format, in addition to 645, also keep other medium format sizes in mind. I use 6x6cm, 6x7cm, and 6x9cm medium format cameras in addition to my 35mm small format cameras.</p>