john_narsuitus

<p>I have too much invested in the Nikon system to abandon it. However, I have stopped buying Nikon lenses. The last three lenses I purchased were fast Fuji prime lenses with aperture rings. <br /><br />16mm f/1.4 Fujinon<br />23mm f/1.4 Fujinon<br />56mm f/1.2 Fujinon<br /><br />I do not like Nikon's G lenses with no aperture rings.<br /><br /> </div>

<p>The auto focus/auto exposure Nikon N70/F70 is my favorite light Nikon SLR because...<br /><br />1. It is my smallest and lightest Nikon 35mm SLR.<br /><br />2. It works well with all my manual focus and auto focus lenses. Even able to work in Shutter Priority and Programmed auto exposure modes with my Type G lenses.<br /><br />3. It makes a great available light candid camera with 50mm f/1.4 auto focus lens.<br /><br />4. It makes a great travel camera when carried with a 50mm f/1.4 auto focus lens and a 35-70mm f/2.8 auto focus lens.<br /><br />5. Its low cost makes it a great expendable camera when mounted with a low-cost and expendable Nikon 50mm f/1.8 Series E.<br /><br />6. It makes a good low-cost telephoto camera when mounted with a low-cost Nikon 75-150 f/3.5 Series E.<br /><br />7. It makes a great close-up camera for fieldwork because its built-in flash produces good fill light even at a 1:2 reproduction ratio with 105mm macro lens.<br /><br />8. Its exposure meter is very accurate.<br /><br />9. It has a rear curtain flash sync feature that is great for balancing room light with flash for large group shots. None of my other SLRs have this feature.<br /><br /> </div>

<p>I currently shoot with a Nikon 20-35mm f/2.8 that is left over from my film days. If I need to replace it, the Sigma 24-35mm f/2 will be a serious contender provided it has an aperture ring so I can use it on my Nikon film cameras.<br /><br /> <div></div>

<blockquote> <p>" I am the <a href="/nikon-camera-forum/00dL6M">manager</a> of CowboyJewelers.com and am in charge of taking pictures of the new designs as they come through. Any<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="/nikon-camera-forum/00dL6M#6541245"> suggestion</a> of lenses or settings is greatly appreciated!"</p> </blockquote> <p>This thread reminded me that for<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#10168949"> insurance<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a> purposes, I needed to take photos of two of my wife's rings.</p> <p>I could have used a 55mm Nikon f/3.5 macro but the camera/subject distance was too short for my taste. I could have used a normal lens with extension tubes but selecting the<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#91398711"> correct<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a> tubes was too difficult. I could have used a normal lens with a close-up filter but selecting the correct filter was too difficult; plus,<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#99971569"> the image<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a> quality would have suffered.</p> <p>I decided to use the 105mm Nikon f/2.8 macro with the extension tube expressly built for it to obtain images up to a 1:1 reproduction<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#8406729"> ratio<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a>.</p> <p>I tried two different methods:</p> <p>1. Image on left<br /> hand-held with one camera-mounted<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#68926781"> flash<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a><br /> 1/60 second shutter speed<br /> f/16<br /> daylight white<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#91972327"> balance<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a><br /> ISO 100<br /> reproduction<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#49891059"> ratio<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a> approximately 1:1.2</p> <p>2. Image on right<br /> camera mounted on copy stand with two<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#66134904"> continuous<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a> incandescent light sources<br /> 1 second shutter speed<br /> f/22<br /> tungsten white<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#37196430"> balance<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a><br /> ISO 800<br /> reproduction ratio approximately 1:1.5</p> <p>At some future date, I will try to use point light sources, black glass, and star burst filters to obtain images as good as the ones I saw on<a title="Click to Continue > by saferweb" href="#99370737"> your<img src="http://cdncache-a.akamaihd.net/items/it/img/arrow-10x10.png" alt="" /></a> CowboyJewelers.com website.</p> <p> <div></div>

<blockquote> <p>"I mostly shoot b&w film in my film cameras, and was putting together a set of four filters. This is for "general purpose" outdoor photography. I'm thinking of these four: orange, red 25, green, polarizer. What would your choice be?"</p> </blockquote> <p><br />1. Polarizing filter (to darken blue skies and/or to reduce unwanted glare and reflections)<br /><br />2. Neutral density (for situations where the available light is too bright for the ISO/shutter speed/aperture combination that I want to use)<br /><br />3. Graduated neutral density (to reduce high contrast lighting when shooting landscapes)<br /><br />4. Soft focus (to soften contrast for dreamy landscapes and to reduce blemishes and skin defects in portraits)<br /><br /> </div>

<p>Also, Kodak Super-8 movie film and Kodak 120 Portrait film in 1971.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"Have any of you concert photographers gone full mirrorless?"</p> </blockquote> <p>No, but I am testing a new mirrorless kit that is smaller, faster, lighter, and quieter than my SLR kit. <br />16mm f/1.4 Fujinon<br />23mm f/1.4 Fujinon<br />56mm f/1.2 Fujinon<br />70-210mm f/3.5 Vivitar (Nikon F mount)<br />Nikon F to Fuji X Adapter<br />Fuji X-Pro1 mirrorless body<br /><br /><br /> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"What film to use in 1959 and 1971"</p> </blockquote> <p>Tri-X for 35mm in 1959 and 1971<br />Verichrome for medium format camera in 1959 and 1971<br /><br />Kodachrome slides in 1971<br />Kodacolor print film in 1971<br /><br />X-ray film in 1971<br />6556 Kodalith Ortho Graphic Arts sheet film in 1971<br> <br /> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"Looking back to 1959, what camera would you buy?"</p> </blockquote> <p>Argus C3<br /><br /> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"Which camera would you select in 1971?"</p> </blockquote> <p>In 1971, when Nikon introduced the F2, I replaced my F body with an F2 body. The F2 was a new and improved version of the 20-year old Nikon F. Minor improvements included a top shutter speed of 1/2000th of a second compared to 1/1000th of a second; a top flash synchronization speed of 1/80th of a second compared to 1/60th of a second; an improved metering system; and a better ergonomic design. One major improvement was the F2 motor drive that was interchangeable with any F2 body whereas each Nikon F motor drive had to be custom fitted to each F body.<br /><br />Today, I still use that same Nikon F2.<br /><br /> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"I invite your comments."</p> </blockquote> <p>I started with an SLR camera that had an M42 screw mount and a bayonet mount (Miranda Sensorex). When the camera proved to be unreliable, I got rid of it and replaced it with an Asahi Pentax Spotmatic that used the M42 screw mount and a Nikon F that used a bayonet mount.<br /><br />Today, I still use the Spotmatics and the following three Takumar lenses:<br />a) 50mm f/1.4, <br />b) 28mm f/3.5, and <br />c) 135mm f/3.5<br /><br />Each lens is permanently mounted on a body so I do not waste time changing lenses.<br /><br />I also use a large number of Nikon bodies, lenses, viewfinders, backs, motor drives, view screens, and other accessories. <br /><br />The Spotmatic and Nikon cameras have been meeting my needs for many years.</p> <p> </div>

<blockquote> <p>"Don't need two 28mm lenses so I'm going to sell the PC."</p> </blockquote> <p>Nonsense!<br /><br />The 28mm f/2 you need for fast shooting and the 28mm PC you need for architecture. Therefore, keep both.<br /><br /></p>

<blockquote> <p>"What are peoples' opinions regarding using Canon's well-regarded close up filter, Canon 500D, versus an extension tube eg Nikon's PK series versus spending more money for Nikon's micro lenses eg 60/2.8 or 105/2.8?"</p> </blockquote> <p>I have used various close-up options.<br /><br />Based on what you described, my first choice is a 60mm f/2.8 macro lens.<br /><br />My second choice is a 105mm f/2.8 macro lens.<br /><br />My third choice is an extension tube on a 60mm or a 105mm macro lens.<br /><br /> </div>

<p>The 14-24mm f/2.8 is one of the three wide-angle zoom lenses I use and I highly recommend it.</p> <p> <div></div>

<p>I had recommended B&H, Adorama, Amazon, and KEH to a new photographer. During a recent trip to New York, she went shopping at B&H. When she return to Chicago, she reported to me that she was very pleased with her new purchases and the personal service she received at B&H.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"Sandeha Lynch makes bellows for the Ansco Speedex."<br> <br /> <a href="http://www.sandehalynch.com/isolette.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.sandehalynch.com/isolette.htm</a></p> </blockquote> <p>Thanks for the link.</p> <p>I was able to use it to get high-quality replacement bellows for my Ansco Standard Speedex 90mm f/4.5 120 rollfilm medium format film camera.<br /><br /> /><br />***</p><div></div>

<p>Keep in mind that not only is the 17-55mm a DX lens that will not work well on FX bodies but it is also a "G" lens that does not work well on Nikon film cameras that need an aperture ring for exposure control. </p>

<blockquote> <p>"So, what I'd do if I were in your shoes is wait until I get the DX camera. Then try out the lenses you have and decide what you want to do. I'd also recommend that you consider a kit when you buy your DX camera. These little kit 18-55mm lenses are usually excellent performers, and you may find that its zoom range encompasses what you need. If nothing else, you can use it to zero in on the focal length you like the best, and then buy a prime that comes closest to meeting this setting on the kit lens."</p> </blockquote> <p>I agree!</p>

<blockquote> <p>"is it a good idea? or maybe i should save the money and stick to my tamron?"</p> </blockquote> <p>No, it is not a good idea. If you do not use the 28-75mm Tamron lens much, why replace it with a lens that has an identical f-stop and a similar zoom range.</p> <p>I recommend saving the money and sticking with the Tamron.</p> <p>I make this recommendation even though I own, use, and love the 20-35mm (see lens on right in attached photo).</p> <p> <div></div>

<p>Fuji X-Pro1<br />3:2<br />16:9<br />1:1</p> <p>Olympus E-p3 and E-P1<br />4:3<br />3:2<br />1:1<br />19:9</p> <p>Canon G15<br />4:3<br />3:2<br />1:1<br />16:9<br />5:4</p> <p>Canon G11<br />4:3<br />16:9</p> <p>Canon G5<br />4:3<br> <br />For still shots, I use the aspect ratio that does not involve in-camera cropping.<br> For the Olympus and Canon, that is the 4:3 ratio.<br> For the X-Pro1, that is the 3:2 ratio.<br> For video, I use whatever is available.</p>

<p>If I were in your position, I would buy the body and an older version of the 18-55mm VR lens that cost less than USD 100. After about six months of using this lens, I would know if I needed more lenses. Knowing my shooting style, I know I would also need the following additional lenses:</p> <p>a. zoom with longer focal lengths such as the 55-200mm</p> <p>b. faster lens for low-light photos. Based on analysis of the images shot with the 18-55mm lens, I know that I tend to favor the 24mm focal length. Therefore, I would get a 24mm f/1.4 lens.</p> <p>c. macro lens for shooting close-ups of small objects.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"Better to just buy camera body and choose good lens?"</p> </blockquote> <p>It is good to buy a camera body and then choose a good lens; or you can buy the good lens and then choose the camera body.</p> <p>When I needed to assemble a photo kit for shooting general subjects, I had purchased the normal and wide-angle lenses before I had even decided on the digital body.</p>

<blockquote> <p>"Looking for opinions related to lens for a DX camera vs. a FX camera."</p> </blockquote> <p>I shoot DX digital and FX analog Nikon cameras. My philosophy has been to buy only FX lenses because I want my lenses to work on my DX and FX bodies.<br> The only DX lens I own is the 18-55mm f/3.5 to f/5.6 because it produces high quality images for a very low price.<br> <br /> <div></div>

<p>Once I shot a lot of landscapes and cityscapes with a 4x5 camera that had shift/swing/tilt features that allowed depth-of-field and perspective control. I purchased a Nikon 28mm f/4 perspective control lens to give me some of the perspective control I lost when I sold my large format system.</p> <p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>The closest focusing distance of a non-macro lens may be all you need to capture the images you want. However, a macro lens is designed especially for close-up work. When compared to a non-macro lens of the same focal length and at the same close-focusing distance, the macro lens displays maximum image quality.</p> <p> </div>