walter_strong3
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Posts posted by walter_strong3
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Work with the camera awhile and then come back here with specific questions and I'm sure you'll get lots of support. And remember RTFM (refers to reading the manual).
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Whut Dominic sed, except I'd suggest you get a decent hand held meter and learn how to use it. You'll learn a lot more about photography that way.
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I don't use my real name. I'm actually a multibillianoire international business man..........no wait.........make that business woman who has a great deal of influence over the price of oil........no, GOLD! In addition I've got my paintings........uh, no, PHOTOGRAPHS! hanging in galleries all over the US......, no, Europe. I stole my name from some bozo living in Cambridge...........no, Modesto, CA and from time to time drop around and sleep with his wi.....no, mistress! Does it REALLY matter whether or not somebody uses an alias? Let's move on.
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That's always ben the problem with spot meters as I see it. How in the name of heaven do you know you are putting the spot on a "Zone 5". I guess that you could always take a reading off an 18% relectance card but that gives you the exact same exposure as an incident reading. Why waste time taking spot readings when the incident reading is much quicker and easier?
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After the results of the latest election I'm wondering if you'll be able to buy ANY KIND of insurance in Ireland!
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I've got the Canon 50mm macro and it serves mighty fine. That and the 3 set Kenko extension tube plus a tripod ought to set you up right good.
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Isen't there a problem using non-Canon flash units with EOS cameras? I was told that my Norman flash would not work with my EOS 3 because there is a considerable voltage difference between the Canon flash guns and the Norman. I stopped trying tto use the Norman, fearing that I damage the camera.
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I bought one of the early EOS 3 bodies and it never did expose accurately. I was too lazy to box it up and ship it back for calibration so I used a hand held meter. My style of shooting makes that very feasible so it was not a really big deal with me. This is the standard way that Canon does business. I think its called the "shoot-aim-shoot" method (as opposed to the "aim-shoot-aim" approach).
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Well................stick to LARGE birds!
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On the 10D that 85mm lens is the equivalent of a 136mm on a 35mm camera. If that's your idea of good portrait lens then go for it. For my money, I think you're money ahead to get a 50mm 1.4 that becomes an 80mm on the 10D.
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I'm looking at "The Photosho Book for Digital Photographers" by Scott
Kelby ($23.99), and "Complete Digital Photography" by Ben Long
($39.950. If anybody here has actually read these books I'd like
some feedback, thanks.
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I'm looking at "The Photo Shop Book for Digital Photographers" by
Scott Kelby ($23.990, and "Complete Digital Photography" by ben Long
($39.95). If anybody has read either of these books, I'd appreciate
some feedback.
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I own the 24-85 and in my very humble opinion it cannot be called a crack sharp lens.
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Suggestion: Post in the Medium Format forum.
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Omar, that was it!! Thanks, Dude!
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The AF on my 10D went south except for full auto mode. I tried
changing lenses but that didn't solve the problem. The owner's
manual wasn't much help. Any suggestions?
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Bill, both of the flashes would have to be set on "Manual" in order for that to work that way. If one is set on "Auto" then the distance does not matter (as long as it is within the range of the flash).
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Graflex bit the dust because of the emergence of 35mm and improved films that were developed for it.
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Were they nice young men in clean white coats who dressed him in a dinner jacket with wrap around sleeves?
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Yeah, I bought a 14mm Sigma and use it on my 10D, so far so good. When the front lens element drops out onto the sidewalk I guess I'll just have to kiss $700 good-bye and poney up about $1700 for the Canon! The point is, as long as the lens holds together then I'm only out $700 but when it pukes out a lens element it becomes a $2400 lens! I've been a victem of this kind of "economy" before, maybe I'll get to skate by on this one.
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Shot this butterfly this week using a Canon 300mm F/4 on a 10D. Is comes in really handy.
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I either have to rearrange things at the scene or do it with my software. I'm not all that good with the software!
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Hey Dave, these issues have been gone over pretty thoroughly in this venue. How about you do a search for specific issues with the 10D and see what pops up.
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Hey, these things happen, especially when you are not paying attention to what's going on around you. It could happen anywhere, and it does!
A good point & shoot?
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