jrileystewart

Scanner focus is one of my most-asked-about problems from film shooters. Usually, the asker is new to film scanning, having recently delved into film after shooting digital for a long time. Here's a way to check to see if the film holder is placing the film at the best distance from the lens: Easily verify the focus on your flatbed scanner Every other way I've used is too subjective; comparing an scanned image to "..what I think is a sharp picture.." Keep this in mind: 1) Film will rarely give you those razor-sharp edges you're accustomed to seeing from your digital camera. In fact, that's what many of us film shooters LIKE about film. It's more organic; less 'plastic' If you are hoping to get razor-edged images from a 35mm film, I think you may be disappointed. 2) Looking at a scanned image at 1:1 and comparing it to a digital image at 1:1 ? Be sure to compare apples to apples. A scanned 35 mm can have much greater pixel dimensions, so 1:1 view of an image that is 6000x4000 is not the same as a digital image that is half that. You need to compare such a scanned image at 1:2 while viewing the digital image at 1:1 in order to compare them. 3) By far, most scanners are set to the appropriate focal distance; they're engineered that way. But return to 1) above and check it if you think you need to. 4) Most 'scanner out of focus' issues are due to 2) above and 'out of focus shooting' in camera. Final tip: Before spending hours and hours fretting over that damned scanner, evaluate your prints, not just the digital image. Are they great? (probably so). If not, focus your attention on camera skills. (believe me... I've been there). I'd be glad to entertain your questions on scanning. I've scanned (and printed) thousands of negatives on flatbed and drum scanners and have seen just about every scenario. jim@jrileystewart.com www.jrileystewart.com

The "Hippocratic Oath..." ends with (paraphrased here for simplicity): "I won't take any more pictures" I don't think that's where any of us want to go. I know first hand that getting too wrapped up with being uniquely original, or bound to "the higher order of art" or even an obsessive obedience to someone's definition of ethics is a real creativity killer. Reject such BS and be happy doing what you're doing. What we know is that when people push the envelope, magic happens. J. Riley Stewart

<p>Some may not understand the full effects of front tilt and swing. Depending on the lens circle of coverage, you can (and will) defocus the image on the ground glass. Excessive tilt will defocus everything (subject or not) beginning at the left and right edges of the frame. The more tilt, the more of the frame affected. Front swing has the same effect, but defocus comes in starting at the top and bottom of the frame. Commercial photographers shooting LF used this effect to completely isolate a subject in its field, regardless of its orientation in the field. So, don't get too heavy handed with front swings or tilts if you want everything in focus. </p>

<p>Would still like to hear thoughts about my original post, i.e., the developing capacity of PC-TEA, especially 1:75. How many 4x5 sheets of TMY or FP4 should I expect to get out of a liter of this mix? Thanks in advance. I have some experience under my belt, and it suggests about 10 or so sheets, then I should toss it. I'm wondering though if this is what others are seeing. Thoughts?</p>

<p>Reference Gainer's phenidone:asc acid: triethanolamine developer diluted at 1:75 (or other).<br> Does anyone know what the capacity of this final solution is? I tray develop 4x5 films and tank develope 120 rolls. Wondering if it has weak capacity, making me use it as a one-time developer, or can I reuse it for over 4-5 120 rolls / liter without worry?<br> Thanks!<br> J. Riley Stewart</p>