peter_kim2

Hi Ross actually I did look up polaroid transfers and almost nothing came up and when it did it was in reference to more pro oriented sheet film and medium format backs. I was looking for interesting things to do with my amateurish Ploaroid 600 film camera.

I see a lot of people have been doing some interesting things with

SX-70 Poloroid film, like manipulating the print to make a pastelic

impressionist like picture.

 

Anyone know if you can do anything interesting with a cheap Poloarid

600 camera? You know the boxy type camera where you flip up the

cover that contains a flash?

 

Or maybe do a poloraoid transfer kind thing on regular photo paper?

What happens if you cut away the backing and border?

 

Ive just been wanting to get creative with my photography lately.

Hi Lex this post is 4 years old but I think I have the same lens as you. Its a canon FD 35mm breech lock. Black lens (very heavy) with a chrome colored mounting ring.

 

Do you really think this is a good quality lens at 3.5 wide open? I tend not to use it because I like having a fast lens even though I dont always use it. I guess I have a habit of liking fast lenes just so I can stop down a couple stops to maximixze quality and speed.

Lots of great input here! I'm gonna try a test of both when I get the chance in xtol.

 

Lex I'd like to test out microphen...Its a speed increasing developer but you say it has noticable grain on 6x6? I wonder what that would mean on 35mm!

 

Is tri-x or Hp5's 'true speed' in microphen 800? I find that in Xtol I get around 1/3 to 1/2 a stop more with tri-x...I guess that would be about 500 and 640.

Hi Andre actually I dont use a bulk loader. I just sit in a dark closet and measure it out against an old piece of film taped to the wall. I had the Alden too but I found it innaccurate and as you said the begining of the film leader as well as the end are always fogged.

Anyone know how much shorter to roll bulk film to get 35 frames instead of 36? Just the size of 1 frame I venture? I guess that would be approx 1 and a half inches?

 

Although...sometimes I get 37-38 exposures on a 36 factory roll if I am carefull about loading.

You would think this would be a common topic but I searched through

the back posts and havent really found that much on them. With the

discontinuation of grey market Tri-X I was thinking about switching

over to HP5+. I gather from posts that both are closer to a true

speed of 200 but at 400 HP5+ gives slightly sharper and less grainy

results than Tri-x...although barely noticable seems to be the

concensous.

 

I have also read that Tri-x pushes better than HP5 at 1200 and 1600

and above...but strangly not much on how they compare at 800...

 

Can anyone share their experiences? I usually use Xtol at 1:1.

Whatever lens suits you, there no right answer. I would suggest a nice wide angle prime lens like a 24mm or a 28mm but the lens you have now is fine.

 

When you take a picture stop down to 5.6 or 8 for the sharpest pictures.

 

Also there is a saying...The sharpest lens in the world has three legs..meaning a tripod...

sounds like its in AI servo mode.

I wonder why 3 day UPS at BH is $4 and Adorama is $8 plus (for me at least)...Anyone know? They are shipping to the same place (for me in DC) from NYC and only 15 blocks from each other from what I can remember...

If I click on one of the online sellers on the main page does that

mean that if I make a purchase from that seller that photo.net gets

some money? If so how much? I'm not a donator but I'd like to help

if I can...

Eric I once used a bulk loader, the highly regarded Alden 74. But I found it frustrating and inacurate. The better way is to sacrifice a roll of old film and pull it all out. Then you can match the length of the bulk film and match it up to this stardard roll and you have the perfect length of a 24 or 36 exposure roll. (Do this in a dark closet or a changing bag of course.)

 

Another tip, reloadable snap cap canisters are notorious for breaking or poping open. Go to the photo store and ask for a handful of used film rolls. Then just tape the bulk film to the bit of film left sticking out of the used canister and roll it up.

I once found a bunch of Tmax rolls from my high school days and they turned out perfect. They were at least 10 years old and stuffed in a counter drawer next to a hot refidgerator. I think the concensous is that slower speed BW films can last decades if frozen.

Are you sure John Its 9:50pm less than an hour after you posted, BH are out of bulk grey Tri-X and back ordered on rolls...

I beleive all new BW filters have MRC on it to indicate multicoated.

I think HC-110 is the obvious answer, easy to mix and keeps a long time. Very short developing times...Tri-x is like 6 minutes I think.

 

HP5 is also a good cheap alternative to Tri-x...At BandH its $2.50 but I like Tri-x better its $3...

 

Also as Scott suggested bulk rolling is very cheap too...a 100 ft roll of HP5 is $25 which will give you 18 rolls of 36 exposures for about $1.36 a roll.

Hi Marcos that you, that second one was exactly what I was speaking of! Unfortunatly they both seem very expensive...I was kinda looking for a way to do it on PS 7.

I wanted to get creative and try making a border on my prints that

approximate a polaroid mask. The picture having a rough black

border. I tried looking around but I coudnt really find anything.

 

Does anyone know what I am talking about? It seems kinda hard to

explain. If I were making prints in a darkroom I guess I could

acheive a similar effect by taking a file and filing around the

neagtive carrier so that when it projected the negative on the paper

the borders would be ragged?

the Start albums are pretty good and cheap. Look at the BH site.

Dont know about the T-90 but this is common with the A-1. To get rid of it you press the double exposure swich and press the shutter a couple times.

Sepia toned would lead me to think it was underexposed. Were they grainy too?

BandH is selling outdated and relabled Sensia for $1.49 I think thats a pretty good deal. ITs relabeled Porst Chrome.

This probably seems like a very elementary question but I was

thinking about getting a Bessa and trying to decide between the R

and R2.

 

The question I had was, it seems that you can use Leica screw mount

lenses on M mount cameras with an adapter. But can you do the

reverse and use M mount lenses on a Screw mount body?

 

The kind of mount seems to be the only big difference between the

two, although I was thinking about jsut getting Voitlander lenses to

start with.

I agree with Jeff, if you have a camera you will eventually be noticed, its not the camera but the person holding that people respond to. Having something like black tape on your camera will probably make it stand out more because its so unusual and make you look suspicious.

Opps sorry this was in the wrong thread.