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peter_kim2

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Posts posted by peter_kim2

    1:1 vs full strength

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Hey Jim and Al wow this is a really great thread. What I posted was by no means information found out totally on my own. Just personal observations supported by more learned members than I on photo.net

     

    To address Jim, Yeah I agree increaseing development time generally increases contrast. But I think that reducing the solvent action of the devloper by diluting reduces contrast more than extending devlopment time increases it. But now that you mention it I also wonder if this is as much an action of the extended development time as it is the natural tendancy for increased contrast when underexposing and overdeveloping in general.

     

    Al I find your bottom line very interesting as it seems to run opposite to what I always 'naturally' accepted as dogma. That being that diluting the developer is better for pushing...Now I AM confused! :)

    1:1 vs full strength

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Diluting a developer like D-76 or Xtol as opposed to using it striaght reduces contrast and enhances sharpness at the expense of slightly more grain.

     

    As to the topic of pushing, but you may find results when pushing at 1:1 better than with undiluted developer as pushing film (deliberatly underexposing and overdeveloping) naturally increases contrast. But the sharpness gained is, in my opinion, a good trade off for a little bit of grain when pushing anyway.

    More on the Zeiss Ikon

    in Accessories

    Posted

    I found this info on a Korean Leica site from someone who was at

    photokina.

     

    Top shutter speed is 1/2000 and IS a film camera and it says it

    comes with a 'standard mount that can be used with many

    rangefinders' which to me is saying it is an M mount leica.

    Measuring basis .75mm and is 30 percent brighter than the M7.

     

    Also come with these new lenses:

     

    50mm F2 Planar ZM,

    35mm F2 Biogon ZM,

    28mm F2.8 Biogon ZM

    25mm F2.8 Biogon ZM

    21mm F2.8 Biogon ZM

    15mm F2.8 Distagon ZM

    85mm F2 Sonnar ZM

     

     

    Heres the new press release:

     

    http://www.zeiss.de/C1256A770030BCE0/WebViewTopNewsAllE/1A30F92F41D05

    AB4C1256F1C002E544A?OpenDocument

    Best point and shoot...?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I think you can give Al the benefit of the doubt. Oriental is and has been considered an offensive term for many many years. Al, if you know any 'asian' people I suggest you ask them or call them Oriental as opposed to Asian and see how they react, then you will see why Andrew is making such a fuss..

     

    No its not as offensive as the 'n' word but its kinda akin to calling a black person a 'negro' which was an accetable term a long time ago but not now...

     

    Anyways back to the topic at hand...I also would reccoemnd a T3, shutter lag is not that bad especailly if you prefocus and the lens quality is very excellent indeed. Although they have a couple known issuses, sometimes the lens sticks half way open while retracting. Just tap it or turn the dail to get it to retract all the way. Also the tooth that catchs the film sprokets have been known to wear down.

    R3A and R2A

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    I beleive its 35 not 25...ie (25, 50, 75,90) vs. (40, 50, 75, 90)

     

    A 1.0 viewfinder is 1:1 perspective and produces what people call the floating frame cause it frames the same as you see.

     

    My only question is, is there really that much difference between the 40 and 50mm perspective to jusitify it being on the same camera?

    Thoughts on Bogen 718SHB Digi Tripod?

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Jon the 724B is an excellent tripod I got one last year. I can use it at eye level without even extending all the way up and I'm 6 feet tall. ITs very stable and pretty lightwieght. And the ballhead is nice and big. Ive used heavy medium format gear on it with no problems. I highly reccomend that you test one out.

    Camera meter exposure test question (70's rangefinder)

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Now this is wierd. I have a Minolta Hi-matic F. Its a fully

    automatic 70's era range finder with ASA settings from 25 to an

    oddball 500.

     

    So anyways I am using 1.4 volt zinc-air hearing aid batteries and

    did an exposure test to see how it would work out. Sensia 100 with

    consecutive shots set at the following:

     

    160, 125, 100, 80, 60, 50, 40, 30.

     

    This is the weird part. The first 3 exposures (at 160, 125 and 100)

    were virtually identical. I cant tell any difference. And the

    exposure 'seemed' perfectly on, but none of the shots were

    overexposed so I coulnt compare.

     

    The next 3 (80, 60, 50) are also almost identical but ever so

    slightly darker than the first set of three.,

     

    Heres the wierd part the last 2 at 40 and 30 are really, really

    dark, definitly underexposed with almost no detail.

     

    Now, if I down rate the ASA from the film's rated 100 to 40 or 30

    (effectivily puposely overexposing the film) Shouldnt the ones at 40

    and 30 be bright and blown out instead of dark? This is really

    wired...I even tore out the slide holders to make sure the lab didnt

    mess up the order of the frames but they didnt...

     

    Any ideas on this wierd situation? Maybe my first mistake was using

    a film with such a wide exposure latitude...But this is normally the

    only slide film I shoot when I do shoot slides.

    Pro Processed Black and White SO much cleaner than my home processed - Tips?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    If you're talking about the negative's physical qualities then you can easily replicate them. After developing dip them in photo flo to resist water spots and hang them to dry overnight in a dust free area. Most self repecting photlabs make at least the effort to be dust free. As to the film being flat, theyve had 10 years to flatten out!

     

    If you want flat negs I suggest you sleve them in pages and place a heavy book or other flat object on top of it for a couple days and they should be flat as a board.

     

    Never send out BW negs out to be processed. You dont know what devloper they use and you cant control the characterisitcs of the film. Its more often miss than hit.

    Minolta CLE-a few beginer questions

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Hope this is the appropriate forum, I figured Leica people would

    know more about this camera that the Minotla thread people. I had a

    couple questions about the Minolta CLE which I am very interested in

    seeing if I can find used since I cant yet afford to buy a M6 which

    I really would like.

     

    Firstly can it use a commonly available battery? I hope its not

    mercury. I read on Steve Gandy;s site that it uses a D76 battery.

    Never heard of this one. The only D76 I know is the devloper!

     

    Secondly how is the shutter sound? Is it much louder than a

    comparable Leica? Im sure it must be much quieter than my Canon A-1

    maybe its quieter than my EOS Elan 7?

     

    Lastly, how much is the going price nowadays for the body or the

    body with the 40mm rokkor? Assuming I can find one that is!

     

    Thank you!

    Mercury battery replacement options...

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Hey J. I heard that they have a faster and uneven discharge slope. I rememebr seeing a chart somewhere before but I dont know where now. In any case I only use BW films like Tri-x with my camera (a minolta himatic) so variable dischrage doesnt seem to be a big deal for me. Slide film is another matter all together!

     

    Gerald, Know any place specific we can get Mercury batteries? I tried a google seach but was unable to find anything except abotu replacement batteries not the real deal.

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