peter_kim2

Correct me if Im wrong but I think its 15% for every stop push, not 50%....

I saw a used Canon EF 28mm 2.8 at the local camera shop the other

day. I needed a wide angles lens I was just wondering what people

thought of it. It seemed in good condition but I noticed that when

the AF was on the manual focus ring was really loose. Is this

normal? It doesnt turn by itself but it has almost no tension. When

I click it to manuial it seems to focus ok but the focus ring is a

little looser than I am used to...

 

Lens elements were clear and otherwise good, the price was $135. Is

this a decent deal?

I'm traveling to Asia next week and I wanted to try and get some

nice night shots. City views and street shots of lit up buildings at

night. I was wondering if any one has any advice for good

photography in this situation?

 

I was thinking about either Porta UC400 or Provia. I dont think my

shots will be over 10 seconds so I dont anticipate any reciprocity

failure.

 

Any advice on metering? Or should I just bracket like crazy and hope

for the best? I think I will be using either a Canon A-1 with a 28mm

or a Canon Elan 7e with the 28-105. (I havent decided if I want to

lug the Elan 7e everywhere in addition to my other camera equipment)

But I will have a decent Manfrotto tripod.

 

Any advice on special filters? I imagine there may be some cases

with a lot of sodium or tungstun lights that may make everything

yellow, or a lot of neon or florescent when doing the street.

 

Thank You!

Sorry, No and none. Same with regular EOS slrs.

Thanks Scott. Actually I think I asked the wrong question. I didnt mean regardless of shutter speed but rather focusing point.

 

Since the T3 is an autofocus camera. If I set it at f/8 should everything within that range (say 2.33 meters to infinity again) be in focus no matter what its focused on?

Hi I wanted to try some street photography with my Contax T3 but I'm

not sure if I can zone focus with it like on a traditional SLR.

 

In the manual there is a chart which gives focusing ranges but I'm

not too sure if I understand it. The manual states that at f/8 it

gives an optimal focus at 5 meters and a zone of 2.33 meters to

infinity.

 

Does this mean everything from 2.33 to infinity should be in focus

regardless of the shutter speed?

I know about tulip shades for zooms but I noticed some lens hood

have flared ends that have slits in them anyone know what these are

for? I have seen them on the new lenses for the Bessa cameras and

some leicas. I'm guessing maybe its cause the lens hood blocks the

rangefinder and the slits gives you at least some view of the

blocked image?

 

Just curious...

I;m kinda confused. I thought the 18-55mm only came as a kit with

the Digital rebel. But I was looking on B&H and it not only lists

the 18-55mm sold seperatly but says it is USM (and its USA not grey)

 

So is this lens USM or not or are there 2 versions of it?

 

Pete

Put them in contact sheets and weigh them down. I use volumes 8 and 9 of my now useless Encyclopedia Brittanica...Curl is gone in a few days.

Just from memory isnt the top row what determines the iso rating and the bottom row has something to do with the exposure latitude range as well as the number of exposures on the roll? I think most cameras ignore this bottom row...anyone have any insights?

I was reading about the Ikon in a UK mag here in the US I think its

called amateur photographer. It mentioned that the Ikon will have

the same shutter as the 2 new Bessas. Does anyone know what kind of

shutter it is? I held off on buying the older Bessa for a couple

reasons one of which was shutter noise. I wonder what the shutter

sounds like on the new cameras.

 

I thought conventional wisdom said that 1/1000 was the fastest speed

on leicas cause it was a cloth focal plane shutter. I wonder if the

1/2000 on the new ikon/bessas indicates a metal shutter...

Look 26 posts down...

I've always put the cover on and inverted my tank twice (a plastic

Patterson) but I was thinking it'd be easier and less messy to use

the supplied plastic stick to twirl or twist the reels in the tank

instead of putting on the cover and inverting it like most people

seem to do.

 

Are there any advantages or disadvantages to doing this? How much

and how fast shoudl you do this to correlates to twisting and

inverting the tank about 2 times for 5 seconds every minute like I

do now? I use Xtol and diafine mostly...

I think it looks the same as well but I looked at the edge markings and theres nothing there. No Fuji RA or other identifiers...Otherwise it looks fine.

 

I wonder how long I can expect to use this. I have 10 year old tri-x thats going strong but I dont know much about slide films...

Thank you all for the nice input, after reading it all I went ahead and did an exposure test shooting from 800 to 1600. As predicted I didnt find too much difference in exposures. Seems like I can quite easily switch between 800 and 1600 and in between depending on the contrast situation as some of you have suggested.

 

My only remaining question is, when you 'push' with regular developers you get a contrast and grain increase. Seems like many of you are saying that with Diafine you get this contrast increase but do you get a grain increase as well?

There are litterally dozens of posts on this that you could have found by yourself. Its not a hard question. In short it is Fuji Astia not Astra.

Secondly Velvia and Astia are at the opposite ends of the saturation and contrast spectrum. Velvia is higher in both, Astia is lesser in both.

As for which colors these intensify all fuji films have similar color characteristics as opposed to Kodaks color palette. Shoot ans see which you like better.

Heres an interesting bit to add I found on Dante Stella's site. I didnt read it in depth but it looks like NIKON once sued Ikon over the name...

 

http://www.dantestella.com/technical/nikonikon.html

The 24 is also more expensive. I got a 28 in good condition for $25 on ebay the going rate for the 24 is around 150

Thomas, in that case I have no idea. Proably something screwy with the electronics. As Scott suggested its probably cheaper to buy another used one then go through the hassle and cost of finding someone to repair it.

Thanks to this forum I went ahead and special ordered some diafine

to try out! I just had some questions before I get my hands wet so

to speak. Can anyone share their experiences?

 

I read on some backposts that people expose Tri-x at 1250 instead of

the 1600 reccomended on the box, can I ask why?

 

Also I noticed some people saying they are getting slightly low

contrast results. Ive been trying to think why this is so. Normally

when you push film dont they come out more contrasty that flat?

Although I know diafine isnt techniclly pushing the film.

 

Anyways any obervation or tips are appreciated! Thank you!

Does it rotate only when the batteries are put in or only when you mount it to the camera? If it does it when you mount it, the winder is reading that the camera needs to be advanced.

What was on the half frame? Was there an image? If so I would complain, if not probably means the begining or the end of the roll was light fogged from rolling, although this shouldnt be the case with factory rolled film.

Or for that matter why not just shoot 35 exposures? Nothing saying you cant 'waste' 1 exposure. Last time I checked you can make a 8x10 contact sheet with a 7x5 sheet if youre not anal about having the top with the label showing.

Why dont you just get a 6x6 negative sheet and just negs in strips of 6.

I disagree Xtol keeps very well. I mixed up a 5 liter batch in January and still have half left and it is fine 10 months later. I keep it in small glass bottles. Just a tip. Grolsch makes 16 ounce glass beer with a old fashion rubber snap top, perfect for a 2 roll development tank like the Patterson I use. The beer isnt bad either, it tastes very much like Heiniken.