brambor

Maybe my math is a little off but I thought he had 1500 for lenses. If he only got the 135mm then he would have $700 in addition to the 10d budget. That would give him slightly over $2000.00 and for that a used 1D could be purchased.

I would get a used Eos 1d and Canon EF135/2.0 this lense will be fast and close enough for poor indoor light as well as outdoor. In addition it is a very fine portrait lens.

Thanks for your help Askin. When I typed the message up on my internet phone it looked ok at first but lousy after it was posted.

It comes down to personal decision. All the banter aside here is my practical take on this issue:Take a look at these 2 pictures:http://www.photo.net/photo/1984786http://www.photo.net/photo/1655725Both pictures were taken around 10am, no tripod and no preparation. 10 years ago I took the first picture with my zoom around 35mm. I love the picture dearly.The second picture was taken this year with 35mm prime lense. I also love the picture very much. If you look closer at both of them you will notice great deal of discrepancy in quality that could be traced to the zoom. (I have done inspection of other photos of mine).Bottom Line: I'm sure glad and grateful I had a camera 10 years ago to take the picture but I also wish I could see the same picture taken with a prime lense.

I don't know about the Leica but I can tell photos from my Hexanon 85 1.8 and my canon ef 85 1.8Lenses have personality to them to that is evident outside of the sharpness issue.

Yeah. I'm betting on 1x as well ;-)

IMHO anything other than a full frame sensor would give a signal of stagnation. Let's call a spade a spade. A 50mm lens should result in a a 50mm field of view. Conversion factors clutter the pompany's prosumer image. I might be old school but any lens wider than 20mm feels like an aberration.

Anna, I had same things on my mind bu I really love my 35/2 I think it's an awesome lens.

No need to 'GO BACK' to film and shun Digital.

 

I have D30 with bunch of lenses and also a back up body in EOS650. I shoot digital with D30 but I also shoot film with Konica Autoreflex as well as Medium Format with Yashicamat. All three processes are wonderful and provide tons of enjoyment. I do agree though that the most pleasure I get from shooting film with my 40 year old Konica and Hexanon lenses.

for those with high speed access here is a link to the first image as it came off the camera

 

http://www.widereach.net/images/orig.jpg

another...<div></div>

Ok. First a disclaimer:. The pictures are just point and shoots.

 

What is wrong with ISO 800 or 1600? In my experience on D30 anything beyond 400 is a little bad for my taste.

 

Tweaking the curves out of photoshop works fine but it is never the same as obtaining decent exposure in the first place. Plus at higher ISO the tweaking starts showing more grain than I would want to have. This is all at the expense of getting washed out pictures of moving kids when shooting at 1/30 and 1/15. I got plenty of those but in my mind I wanted to get 1 or 2 keepers out of this. I took about 21 photos of which I'm keeping 3 while about 8 of them were hit by moving kids too much and the remainder wasn't too interesting.<div></div>

I'm posting this after I saw some unfavorable posts to purchasing L

primes in wide focal lengths:

 

Today at St.Nicholas party I tried to take some pictures of my son.

Being a person who dislikes flash i took my D30 with 20/2.8,24/1.4

and 50/1.4 I tried to use the 20/2.8 at ISO 400 but the room was too

dim and the pictures were too dark. I was bumming because the 20mm

was a perfect focal length for the party. I put on my 24/1.4 L and

opened the aperture to 1.4. The pictures looked great. I'm sure I'll

see some softness and DOF might affect the images but at least they

are usable. I find a lot of needs for a L lens in wide format

because I do not use flash. I really like the digital pictures from

indoor settings without the use of a flash. They have this pleasant

softness that appeals to me.

Could anyone explain to me the Kenko extension tubes? Could I attach

them to any EF lens and get an instant macro lens? That would sound

too good to be true...

I have the 24 L 1.4, 35/2 and the 20/2.8The most practical lens is the 35/2 It is light to carry around, sharp, wide enough in most situations and you aren't as much afraid to carry it in situations where it might get stolen. The 24 1.4 is very cool. I threw away my flashes and switched to available light photography. For 'sandwich shop' shots and other low light situations you might like the 24mm better but it is more obtrusive and heavy. It offers better performance than the 35mm but the question is will you take better pictures with it?The 20/2.8 is good but I hardly ever need to go this wide.

Could anyone explain to me the Kenko extension tubes? Could I attach them to any EF lens and get an instant macro lens? That would sound too good to be true...

Thanks for the link. I read through the descriptions and concluded that I have a Yashicamat with Lumaxar lenses. My model only takes 120 but does not seem to have a meter. That is the only thing that puzzles me. The camera fits one description precisely except that it is supposed to have a meter and I don't think mine has a meter.

I have just picked up a Yashicamat on ebay and have a few questions.

 

I'm having trouble identifying the model. The unit does not seem to

have a model number. The box it came in has a word Yashicamat with a

large M in the background. Does it mean that my Yashica is model M? I

was trying to add the camera to the list on this web site but the

only close models were LM and EM. I have not seen anything saying M.

 

My second question is that when I pressed the shutter button on the

Yashicamat it was so quiet that I thought there might be something

wrong with the camera. I'm used to hearing the mirror slap.

I have been using Konica T1 Cameras and Hexanon Lenses for only about a year but I absolutely love the T1 Cameras and the sharpness of the lenses. At first my meter was out of whack but then I bought a nice lightmeter and voila! The photos are great. I have also since had the built in meter repaired but continue to use the handheld meter. The 85mm lens is probably the best lens Konica made. Look at my folder of Konica Autoreflex photos and judge for your self.

I use Hoya filters but if I had the $choice$ I would have BW filters. My D30 sems to have a slight blue cast so I use 81A filters on most of my lenses eos lenses. On my Hexanons a skylight seems to be my choice. I also have polarizers and split screen ND filters for my wide angle lenses. I do own a blue and a red filter but don't use them much at all.

I kept my first EF lenses for over 10 years before I upgraded them. Do you know how much change occurs in 10 years?! We'll be riding Jetson cars or something like that. We will certainly have a full frame digital by then. I would go with option 2 because that is the best lens selection in terms of performance and resale value. If you buy the 17mm zoom and everyone switches to full frame in a few years then the resale value will plummet. You can still use it or a coffee book material: The Life of my Goldfish.

Don't buy anything wider than 20mm and the rest is moot point.

35/2 is really great lens. It is small enough to give you a low profile for street photography. It is a great lens optically as well.

I have just checked my previous post and must apologize for the grammar farts. I'm writing the responses on my cell phone and things get out of hand sometimes.

My first suggestion, although a bit snotty one, would be to make a contract with one of your relatives to take all of your lenses but the 50mm 1.4 Tell them to sign and promise they would give them back to you in no less than three months. Then get out there and shoot a lot of pictures with the 50mm lens. You will be surprised how flexible you much you can get done wit a lightweight lens and by moving closer or farther respective to your subject. You will also use your brain more and that has positive results most of the time. My second suggestion would be to sell the 200mm lens because it is a bit too close for a portrait a or a landscape shot. For the money you earn get a nice wide angle prime or if you must a nice wide angle zoom. My third suggestion is to sell the 200mm to me because I'm looking for one right now to get closer to my hockey subjects when I need to.Your faithfull servant and future customer. Rb