dglickstein

"I can't imagine any normal person actually buying a H system"

Sorry you can't.

dG

I can answer the H2 part of this question since I just invested in one.

The H2 is a dual platform camera that supports film and digital (the H1 did too but the H2 improves on it). I invested in it with the notion that eventually I will switch to a digital back (when I can afford one) but until then I will shoot with film.

dG

I just ordered 60 rolls of 220 from B&H and they ship UPS and Fedx so I do not think so. I've always had film shipped to me and never noticed any problems.

It's a good question.

dG

I recommend LTI at 34 East 30 Street 212-685-6871.

dG

Thanks for the link and I will review it.

Here is what I am doing with my gray card:

1. Fill EOS3 frame with gray card and get meter reading

2. Spot meter with Sekonic 558

3. Fill H2 frame with gray card and get meter reading

4. Take incident meter with Sekonic in front of gray card towards camera lens

With ISO 100 set, #1, #2 and #4 I get the same but #3 is 2/3 to 1 1/3 stops different.

Maybe I will try this outdoors later today.

dG

When I first purchased the Nikon 5000 I had a hard time with what needed to be done to get results close to the way my slides looked. I found this article link extremely helpful and I recommend you read it:

http://www.photosafari.com/Articles/ScanningImagesWithNikonScan.asp

After some time I got familiar with how the scanner worked and comfortable with what needed to be done--it's will take some time. I do very little in PS. Good luck.

dG

Thanks for the response. Yes, I am happy with the exposure results I am getting, obviously I am learning how to work with MF. I was able to apply everything I learned with 35mm metering and methods and apply to the H2 -- which sometimes feels like a 35mm on steroids.

dG

I'm getting used to the H2 that I got. I shoot spot meter and often

use my Sekonic light meter to confirm my metering.

My 35mm gear (2 EOS3 bodies) and the Sekonic were dead on spot and

with gray card the same readings.

My H2 seems to be off 2/3 to 1 1/3 stops in spot mode as compared

with the Sekonic and EOS3s using gray card (same light obviously).

I've shot about 40-50 rolls with the H2 so far with excellent

metering results. I do bracket.

Should my H2 metering match the Sekonic and EOS3s?

dG

I use the Nikon 9000 to scan 120 and I am very pleased. Someone here recommended that I get a glass holder--they were right.

Good luck.

dG

Several months ago I switched to MF and purchased an H2 and I am

very happy with it. I've shot about 40-50 rolls so far.

Here's the question: It seems that every 4th or 5th roll of film

(it's consistent), the film back doesn't auto wind the film to the

first shot unless I remove the back and re-attach it. It's a bit

annoying and I can't think of any logical reason for this, but I'm

asking before I call Hasselblad.

Thank you in advance.

dG

Most certainly. Before switching to MF and the Nikon 9000, I'd load the 5000's slide feeder, let it run and come back 20 to 30 minutes later. Once you are comfortable with the Nikon 5000 settings, the slide feeder can save you a great deal of time.

As for the quality of the Nikon 5000: what you are trying to do with the digital image? Print, view on screen, what? I found it exceptional with color and quality and it was convincing enough to purchase a 9000.

Lastly, I found this article link extremely helpful and I recommend you read it:

http://www.photosafari.com/Articles/ScanningImagesWithNikonScan.asp

Good luck.

dG

My 35mm film goes to:

Kodak Mail In Processing

10501 Rhode Island Avenue

Beltsville, MD 20705-2317

It's the address I was given when the Fairlawn location closed. I had 140 slide rolls developed this past October. I now use a lab in Manhattan.

dG

The MTA strike from last week could have also caused delays. Many shipments were delayed.

dG

The Fairlawn location closed quite some time ago. My processing goes to Beltsville Maryland and they haven't been too bad. From what I have read here online, Kodak hasn't done the developing in a long time.

I have 30 rolls/mailers left before I'm done with Kodak--since I've moved to 645, use Fuji and have my developing done by a lab in NYC.

Have you noticed the price of the mailers more than doubled in a couple of months this year? Used to be $4 each, now they are about $8 or $9.

dG

Thanks guys!

It seems that I need to check the Minimize Margins option in the Epson print dialogue box--which is strange but understandable.

I'm going to have to explore this more.

dG

Thanks guys. This is wierd. It must be some margin somewhere.

Playing with the borderless option doesn't alter it.

When I check Sale To Fit Media it scales down my 11x14 to 95% (10.457x13.33). In Page Setup I have selected 11x14 so this doesn't make sense.

Anyone know why scale to media shrinks an 11x14 when printing on an 11x14 sheet? Thanks in advance.

dG

Having the following problem:

I have a TIF that's 11"x14" with my name in the lower right corner

I print it through CS2 to my Epson 2200 onto 11x14, displays fine in

CS2 preview but when I print my name is cut off as if the image is

larger than the paper (but they are both 11x14).

I tried it with borderless checked and unchecked--no difference. What

am I missing?

Thanks in advance.

dG

I believe Kodak farms developing out to a few labs accross the country. My slides go to a lab in Maryland for developing.

dG

I just switched from 35mm to 645. I am very happy. My advice: Rent a 6x6 or 645 and see how you like it. Good Luck!

dG

What Scott said plus Photoshop CS or CS2 is a great tool but you may need a PhD.

I also have a Nikon Coolscan and I spent a lot of time reading books and trial and error. This forum helped a lot too. Good luck.

dG

I have to echo what David said. I just got my Nikon 9000 last night, set it up and scanned transparencies shot with an H1 (645). Just amazing! 8000x6500 16bit beats any digital sensor, period.

As David said, I am now content too.

dG

Andy,

Since you are already digital (not you, your camera) then I can understand going back to film is tough. However, you don't need to do MF and film, digital backs are a solution--albeit very very expensive.

I just came back from my camera store and purchased a Nikon Coolscan 9000 (actually traded in my 5000 for it and paid the difference). I did so to be able to scan 645 transparencies. Think about it, 645 at 4000 dpi--you're not going to get better with any digital camera or digital back, that's like 8000+ pixels!

It directly equates to print size. Plus with Canon and Nikon digital gear--you'll always be replacing the entire body about every 2 years (since every year a new body will be developed).

An important point was made above, MF slows you down and that's a good thing--a very good thing. Think more, shoot less, achieve better results.

This was a tough decision for me but I'm looking forward to the switch. Keep us posted!

dG

Andy,

I will also add (as someone did above), that when I rented an H1 to get the feel of it, it was a great benefit and learning experience--I recommend it too.

Here are my posts if you want to read what others told me:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Doog

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Ds8k

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Dt2A

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Dq3Y

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Dx2x

Good luck.

dG

Andy,

I just spent several weeks going through this decision process and so many people in this forum have helped. I own many L lenses and 2 EOS3 bodies and I just ordered an H2 with several lenses and film back. I will purchase a digital back when I replenish my savings. I am keeping my Canon gear too. There were a lot of other factors in my decision.

But there are many other great MF cameras out there with digital back options that will blow the Canon gear away because of the frame size alone.

Good luck.

dG

Will do and thanks.

dG