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I purchased a refurbished Nikon V (LS-50) scanner as a back up/ addition to my Nikon IV (LS-40) scanner. The V works well but turns out it’s scanning at a lower resolution than the IV, when it should be the opposite. In the short term, this is actually a blessing in disguise, since I’ll print few of the scans anyway and it saves storage space. But at some point I’ll want to take advantage of the V’s greater resolution for a print. I’m using an old version of VueScan - 9.5.32. The Coolscan IV scans with it at the resolution it’s supposed to. VueScan recognizes Coolscan V, so there should be no problem there. The seller suggests scan at lower resolution with the V is probably something to do with the old version of VueScan, but why would that be if it works as it should with the IV? The seller does maintenance on these scanners and sold the V with a 6 month warranty, so I’m figuring the scanner *should* be fine. Thanks in advance for possible answers to this mystery!

Hey all, I have rolls of Tri-X, Portra, and Astia slide film that I’ve stored in the freezer for 4 or 5 years. All or most of it has an expiration date Oct 2013. I shot and developed a roll of the Portra, and it seems fine. If I take a roll out for a shoot but don’t end up using it for a few days or weeks, should I stick it back in the freezer or just put it in the fridge for that time? Most of it is 120 film. Thanks in advance

I had Nikon’s FH-869g glass carrier and never had any issues with newton rings. Just pop the film in and go.

I guess I’m weird because I love scanning film. It’s like waiting for the image to show itself in the darkroom to me. It’s a step in the process of delayed gratification that is part of what makes shooting film enjoyable.

... just wondering too if there’s any advantage with the PME over the NC2 other than the meter. Is the PME lighter?

Isn’t an issue with the NC-2 though that you can’t see the whole frame at once with that magnification?

Thanks for getting into all that. That's a monster of a lens up top. I have an F2 as well and a Nikon diopter for it. The NC-2 I see for sale look pretty beat up. I think ideally a PM45 would do well, but they're pretty expensive, so for now maybe I'll just hang with the waist level. Sure is good to get back to Hasselblad. The sample/test roll I shot looks great.

What are your thoughts on using the Acute Matte D 44204 with a meterless prism finder as far as focusing? Better to use a microprism or split screen to focus since it's not possible to verify focus with a magnifier? Also, from a quick search, specific diopter correction lenses for the prism finders appear to be hard to find. Do you know if any of the finders are useable for someone wearing glasses? I don't really want a chimney finder, since part of my objective would be to raise viewpoint level.

I only use the 80 Planar and may get the 60 Distagon as I had before. Maybe I'll pick up a 42161 to see how it compares to the Acute Matte. Thanks for the rundown. What do people use a 250mm lens for on a Hasselblad? Portraiture?

Yes, it's the bottom pic, Acute Matte D. Think I'll work with it and it'll be fine. I just saw a comment that center focus aids start to black out at f/5.6 or f/8. Is that so?

Apparently my new blad has the same focusing screen as the old one I had- according to the person I sold it to. OK, so maybe I'm just having a mental block with this screen. I'll work with it with renewed confidence and I'll probably get used to it. If not I'll try a split image screen later. Thanks again for your input on this, orsetto.

Ha. I just sent an email to the guy I sold my 500cm to, to see if he can tell me which screen is in it. It's a bit painful to say it but I sold the body, waist level finder, 2 backs, 80 & 60mm lenses- all in excellent condition for $1600 US. It's going to be hilarious if he tells me it has a 42215 Acute Matte focusing screen as well!

Hmm, since I have other cameras to shoot indoors with on the rare occasions I do, maybe I'm misjudging the need for Acute Matte then. Do the standard screens work well in overcast or late afternoon toward evening? I'm wondering now if the 500cm I had before even had an Acute Matte screen. Maybe it was just a standard split screen. I do remember it being an impressive viewfinder- one of the things I enjoyed most about the camera.

What is the difference with an acute matte screen as opposed to the standard Hasselblad screens? Brighter, easier to focus, more 3 dimensional view?

I’m not sure but the screen is probably D. I didn’t know there was a 1st gen. I think KEH sells it for $328 and they go for $130 minimum on eBay. I noticed the grid screens are a bit less than the 42215 split screen acute matte without the grid. I’d prefer without. Is there a ‘non-D’ equivalent to the 42215 split screen micro prism acute matte? That’s the one I’ve been expecting to just suck it up and go ahead and pay $500 for.

Thanks orsetto. $1079 + tax with waist level finder & acute matte screen. My mistake was not thinking about which acute matte it was. Once I focused with it I realized the 500cm I had a few years ago had a split screen acute matte; this one is just the cross hairs type. I don’t know that a 500cm goes for half the price. I might be able to trade this for a 500 in same condition with a standard screen and save a few hundred dollars, but then there’s the hassle and cost of return shipping, and as you say, ‘bird in the hand’. Monday they are supposed to get back to me so I can see if they’ll give me any more than their standard buy price for the screen. I’m a day or two past the 14 day return but I’ve been a regular customer for years. Of course I figure a little overpay with them for the 6 month warranty. David Odess has a 12-14 week wait time for repairs- another incentive for not buying elsewhere. I had a very clean 80mm Planar from a private party but it needed repair, so I returned it and went back to KEH for a lens as well.

Btw the cosmetics of the body otherwise look pretty clean. The front where the lens connects has some wear, but seems reasonable.

I've always had good luck with KEH, so wanting another Hasselblad, I picked up this 501cm body, along with a back and 80mm CF Planar. Everything was listed in EX condition. I shot a roll and although I haven't been able to scan it, the negs seem to look fine, with no light leaks, and even spacing between frames. However, I'm wondering if I could have done better considering the wear on the back of the body, or if 'EX' seems a reasonable assessment. If I run my finger over the inner ridge where black has worn off, it's a little bit rough. The back (which has less wear than the body) seems not to be 100% tight with the body if you twist on it. Maybe this is normal for a 22 year old Hasselblad. Should I just go with it and figure this body will last fine for another 20 years or so? Thanks

KEH just sent me a different cap. This one seems to work OK with the hood. As to the comment from Silent Street- I'm not sure why you would want to spend $800 or more for a lens and not have a cap for it— unless you keep a protective filter on it. Thanks everyone.

Just received a Hasselblad 80mm CF lens from KEH with lens hood and cap- (all EX condition). The hood and cap aren't working well together. Hood is the 60/80 and works great alone. The 51643 front lens cap that also has '60' in raised letters on the inside does OK as well by itself. Getting the two to work together is a different story. If the cap is on first and I put the hood on, the 2 pieces get stuck together, the hood only screws on the lens half way, the cap is hard to budge, and it takes quite an effort to get them off the lens. Both times I have done this they come off together with the cap sort of screwed into the hood, and then it pops out. If I have the hood on first the cap doesn't get stuck, but it kind of skates around trying to find fit and never seems to do a sufficient turn and seat normally. It kind of works, but not easy and sure like it should. I had a Hasselblad 80 CF lens before and never had this issue. The cap looks more worn than the hood. I kind of think this cap, while it might be the proper cap for the lens(?), wasn't the same cap that originally came with this lens, judging by the wear it has. It actually looks more like 'Bargain' condition than EX. Should I just ask KEH for a cap in better condition or could it be the wrong cap? Thanks in advance...

I just turned the lock on the bottom plate of my M7 and started to remove the plate with film inside. I didn’t pull the opposite end of the plate more than 1/4, maybe 1/3 of the height of the plate that seats to the bottom of the body, so not close to actually opened on that end. I had never done this in 35 years using a Leica, but have done it twice now in a week! This film is at frame 5. I caught myself and immediately pushed it back and re-tightened the lock. What are the chances I leaked light to the film? Should I advance a couple frames and keep shooting?

Since there are a lot of reviews complaining about bugs with the newest GoPro, I’m considering the Yi 4K camera, and a gimbal. On this thread if anyone can suggest a gimbal and mounting strategy for car and/or bike, I’d appreciate it. Thanks

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Hi folks I've been looking at reviews of GoPro and apparently the biggest supposed difference between GoPro Hero 6 and the newest model Hero 7 is that the latter has better stabilization, almost as if the camera had a built in gimbal. I'm not sure though if this is relevant unless you are shooting at 4K and/or highest frame rate. Others have suggested that Hero 6 is just as good with stabilization if you're not shooting at the highest frame rate. (I'm mostly a beginner with video, so this factor is mostly new to me). It's also been suggested that the improved stabilization might be just a matter of updating firmware for the Hero 6. Anyone have knowledge or opinion on these issues, or if spending $120 more for the Hero 7 is worth it? I would be using the camera for motion situations on bicycle or shooting from my car, so good stabilization is something I definitely want. Thanks in advance...

Glenn, I did all the Sierra upgrades and so far I don't see any difference with CS4 using Mojave, but I've only had it up since yesterday. One thing it does do that was also true with Sierra or High Sierra for the past several months is that when turning on the computer and opening photoshop sometimes files I had open in the previous session open on the screen for some unexplained reason. As for printing, I can't answer to that because I haven't printed anything for at least a year. I'll try when I have time and post here. In the meantime maybe a search would turn up info on it.