enrico__

If you are not too bad with a screwdriver and a little patience then you can probably fix this yourself. Take the bottom casing off. (There isnt much in there) Then take a look at why the arm isnt connecting properly. The actual arm post has a screw in its side. This 'screw' post connects with another 'arm' that triggers teh mechanism for the shutter to be released..

Sometimes these little screws are missing or have been broken off.

Its an easy fix.

So Howard, I guess that was: "bill maxwell on 404-244-0095"...

Dont forget to compensate when the bellows is all the way out when shooting close-ups.

 

Also, cold weather and an RZ is not always a good thing.

The 65mm lens is under-rated in my opinion. Both chrome and black versions are superb. (ofcourse chrome shutters are the older, try doing some research about chrome/black mamiya TLR shutters).

 

Try to get one with the chrome keeper rings still on it.

 

The Biggest pain with this lens is trying to use a lens hood and/or filters.

 

I came up with my own version of hood/filter contraption - You will find it here: http://www.scotece.com.au/review%20mamiya%20tlr.htm

Hi George, John was right.. the enlarger he used was built around a large format (11x14?) camera. The book (ie: "the print") also talks of the lighting source/s used for the enlarger.

why would you think that, jeff?

Brian, thanks nice going.. Seems as though this is a good kit. Im in Australia and have never purchased internationally via ebay but I guess it shouldnt be too problematic. The kit seems like a lifesaver.

 

Bueh, the geeky fix is a lifesaver too (at the best/worst of times) but its got to the point where Im using more duct tape than film!

Forgot to mention... check the archives, there are many questions that will eventually come to mind. Some great informative answers too!!

Good notes from the above peoples so far.

 

I purchased my first Mamiya TLR years ago and have been hooked on them since - trying to always find accessories etc.. sometimes this is not so easy!

 

Do a search via google and you will find some information, especially Graham Patterson's mamiya pages at: http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/

 

I have some of my own experiences outlined here, along with some modifications I have made to help me using this system more comfortably:

 

http://www.scotece.com.au/review%20mamiya%20tlr.htm

Hi all,

Has anyone attempted to fix the light seals in an RZ67 120 Roll Film

Holder??

The thin grooves seem a little difficult to get an alternative fix in

there. Im good at repairing things but this RFH may be a little

painful!

The unit is in great condition otherwise.

 

Anyone got any advice??

Richard, C4 Argus - never seen one let alone heard it...

Very good point made by Mark! - once you buy your first TLR.. you tend to want to buy everyone else's too!!

Dont get addicted!

David, that recording sounded like a machete swing gone wrong...!! Impressive..

I'll leave the light meter debate to someone else...

I personally only use handheld meters.

 

If you are serious about getting some sort of decency in quality then go for a rollei or a mamiya tlr. Depends on your budget ofcourse but these can be picked up for rather good prices.

 

Read through the Archives about these outfits, there is much to look out for however they are very simple to use.

http://www.ne.jp/asahi/japan/manual-camera/shutter1.htm

 

the above link by David Goldfarb - scroll down and listen to the canon ef...

scary shit man...

"to many it would simply mean more frames" - I was refering to 645

Michael Matsil... clear as mud.. sort of. But you raised a point that got me thinking - well I was actually thinking about this yesterday whilst photographing out on the street with my Mamiya TLR (6x6). I dont usually rattle off a roll too quickly - I like to take the time to observe however sometimes I get to frame 12 too quickly and I wonder what this system (TLR) would be like if it were 645 (landscape format). This brings me to your line:

 

"it is entirely understandable why a TLR or any waist level camera is square framed: because of the impracticality of rotating such a camera."

 

To many it would simply mean 'more frames'. However I quickly thought about how different the use of the camera would be. How much smaller the camera would be. And in turn how differently one would 'assume' to be using it. Wouldnt the user be using in much the same fashion? And still not be able to turn it on its side? And still not be square, And still have a waist level finder... In other words I think a given format dictates the way a user will initially approach 'ways of seeing' - after that the user can bend this vision all he or she wants.

Azim, we're with you...! My favourites would have to be my large format shutters. Then after that comes my TLR Mamiya shutters. Pavel, I know what you mean by the 135 - it snaps loud as the blades shut.

 

My 'problem' is that i tend to frequently pull out my lenses and compare all the '1 second' settings... try it!

 

-e.

Vegemite - Australian. It does not taste alright...

Metered finders - dont know because I dont use them!

 

Porrofinder (viewing opening on left side of the back) - well actually of four porr's that Ive had only one I have kept, and this was the one that cosmetically outside was the worst looking. But viewing was clear. The others were just all shit for some reason.

 

Prismfinder - (viewer in the middle back) - this isnt too bad but is heavier. Clearer and brighter but more expensive.

 

Of all the finders the best experiences Ive had is with the general waist level finder... perfect...!

I second Frank, I'd only really go for Diafine if the lighting situation is of high contrast. Get the extra speed, yes, grain not overly apparent, true... but - If your lighting is fairly even then things can look a little deadbeat with this combinaton.

dont think of '5 secs' of inversions. Do an inversion count.

If you are not over developing then try 3 inversions 'gentle with rotation' every 30 secs.

 

Dont aim for a washing machine type of affect...

everyone seems to do this.. i tooke me a good hour to figure it out...

Pull the film by a stop. Meter normally (shadows). Process accordingly.

Probably the last thing I do is post them online. Ive shot quite a bit of b+w over the years (thats pretty much just about all I shoot) and I let it sit at proof sheet stage.

 

I often revisit places at different times of day, on different days, different times of year.

 

My body of work is just that - a body of work in a given space in time, usually contributing to a larger or broader project.

 

Funny you ask this question - I was looking at about 10 contact sheets of 35mm shot in 2000 / 2001 that I hadnt looked at since then...

 

I do photograph with an aim however it is nice to go out and photograph without any inhibitions, its almost a cruel way to relax ones mind.