enrico__

Easy done. Get the stuff from teh ebay guy. I used it mainly for RFH of RZ and RB's.

The stufff I used for the TLR's is fussy side of velcro. cut it into thin strips and apply. easy.

read more here. - scroll down to where the images are.

http://www.scotece.com.au/review%20mamiya%20tlr.htm

Does anyone have any experiences with using efke 50 and 100 iso films

in 4x5 or 120 roll film with HC110??

The only data I can find is mainly RO9 and Rodinal related. Rodinal

and HC110 are the only dev's I use and from yesterday - no more

rodinal at my supplier.

So what do you expose these at and process it at when using HC110??

Is there a general rule of thumb when exposing out of date film?

(in this case some 4x5 and 120 Plus X older emulsion - about 2

years out of date).

I have always used MamiyaRB/RZ67 gear. I wish to purchase a

Hasselblad. Im looking at some secondhand gear and its all black,

silver, cm,c,cx,elm etc etc... I know the silver lenses are the

earlier, but thats about it. Can anyone direct me to a website that

outlines the history of the Hasselblad 6x6 MF line up/? Or anyone

care to give me a brief headstart. I will probably be purchasing used

cameras. What do you own/use, and why?

Can anyone direct me to decent photo supply stores in San Francisco

that stock b+w films (especially tri-x).

Thanks!

Hi all, thanks for the replies. I shot some more tests and the exposure seems just a wee little bit off (on film). It could do with a third stop more density.

Thanks again!

Ok this is what Ive done..:

I have a 90mm Angulon and the sutter died (dead, zip, gone,

finito..).

I needed a replacement shutter.

The front and rear glass of the 90mm Angulon fit exact into a

(chrome) series shutter from an 80mm Mamiya TLR lens. The focus is

perfect, Flash sync works, however Im concerned about how the

aperture has/is translated.

Maybe Im just confusing myself but Im wondering if there is any

translation between an 80mm lens designed for Medium Format, and a

90mm Lens designed for a Large/r Format when aperture/shutter is

interchanged between the two?

I thought the best way to find out would be to make a negative and

judge the exposure. However, I think the thing that confused me is

that I took a light reading and set the aperture/shutter according to

the reading and the exposure was fine. So Is the focal length,

regardless of lens coverage, the same as far as adption of a

different shutter/aperture goes? (Now I'll ask in a different

way..).. If I screw 90mm Angulon elements in a shutter designed for a

medium format 80mm lens then should, and How, would the aperture

translate?

Has anyone had any experience with using sheet film backs with the

mamiya tlr's?

Does anyone still use one today?

-e.

Yeah I know what you mean Bruno, Its a strange act to follow - that initial liberty experienced with a camera. And still its not yet realised until sometime after the images are taken.

This is an interesting topic. Say, the first time I had wanted (or allowed myself to lose myself, and nearly lose my head) with a camera, was when I had travelled to europe and bummed around. Like you said, many churches etc so it was a case of diverted observation so as not to keep it true to waht I was aiming for. Anyway, those negs/proofs sat in a box for 5 years before I decided it was time to make a body of prints. That body of work had a very positive reception and was in effect my first solo show - but, the reaction from viewers was 'it differs from your current/recent work'. That got me thinking... why? (I understand there could be a number of answers for that 'why' but I think it was mainly to do with not having to think about anything apart from the image itself [pre-exposed]).ie: the want for an image at the time, as opposed to the wishing for a 'wow' photograph later on.

Hi Steven,

Yes, and Yes.

First thing - check to see if the lever arm on your lens isnt bent etc.

If you are dead set positive that problem isnt the lens (and it probably isnt) then looks like your gearing is probably of by a cog or two.

Behind the front plate (ie, the plate that the taking lens sits on) is a part that acts as a pendulum. Your cocking lever (on the body) is part of, or connected to this part. So as the 'pendulum' swings side to side it in effect causes your lever to move up and down. (So to make sense of this, all things being circular, your cocking lever is just a 'pendulum' on its side...).

Now, the bottom of this 'pendulum' has gear type 'teeth'. This gear is probably misaligned. Mine was misaligned by one cog. yep, pain in the ass.

If you move it over one way by too many cogs then it will lower the lever too much. If you move it over by too many cogs the other way then it wont reach its target point. Its just trial and error. You'll work it out. The front plate can be removed quite easily (screws).

Make sure you have patience and a good memory, and take your time. These cameras are renowned for having left over "shit, where did these come from?" type of parts...

Hi all,

I have aquired 3 packs (50sh) of Kodak Kodalith Film in 4x5. There

are quite a few sheets there and I hope to experiment with it all.

Has anyone had much experience with this film? I plan to use it in

camera.

What do I process this film in? Dektol? What dilution should I be

looking at as a starting point? I understand I can achieve a high

contrast effect as well as a somewhat pictorial result yet with still

graphic qualities.. but how?

Thankyou -~Enrico.

ADRIENNE, go to the Ilford website as mentioned by Peter. You will find a range of times and developers wth indicative ISO's, for diverse applications.

PETER, you mentioned using HC110. are your dilutions direct from syrup concentrate, or are they diluted from a stock solution???

Thanks for the recipe Jay. What does the Sodium Ascorbate do?

Out of interest, what films do you find react better to two bath and/or divided?

William, Jay, John, Thanks all for your responses.

William, I routinely rate my Tri-x anywhere between 200 and 320 - depending on the situation, ball park is ISO 250.

I never use Ilford delta 100. I was given 5 rolls and didnt know what to do with it so I made a test roll and put it through the developer. I do not like t/grain type emulsions but admittedly this roll turned out beautiful at ISO 50.

I figured I may need a slight time increase in Bath A and perhaps an adjustment of ISO (slight). I will expose a roll and do some clip tests.

Jay, Im not using a specific recipe. Im experimenting with varying amounts of raw chemical. I have used diafine and only use it for one specific situation (night/tri-x). I have been looking at beutler's, adam's, and thornton's recipes, amongst others. I have not added metol to the batch yet though.

It makes sense now that the contrast is controlled by bath A.

John, Thankyou for taking the time to post the explanation concerning Divided Dev's and Two Bath methods. Much appreciated. Im sure it will be useful to many others as well.

Regarding Two Bath film development and density:

To increase overall density, would you give the film more exposure

(lower ISO)?,

Or, Increase time in the A bath?, Or, Increase time in the B bath?

(considering that the metering is correct).

Im looking at some negs that I processed (3 different film types-

400TX, Delta100, J&C/P100) and my Bath B is a metaborate solution.

Overall the negs look a little thin, but more like they are

underdeveloped.

Bob,

The mirror will stay up indefinately. Its not as if the mirror resets it self, you have to re-set it. When you press the button, the mirror flips up first and the the shutter in the lens fires.

""Will it stay up for 1 second, if you set that speed on the lens and switch the body to RBL?""

>>- it will stay up for as long as you want it to stay up... every time you re-set the shutter, you re-set the mirror.

Also, Bob mentioned "What I'm not sure about is whether the camera will fire in RBL mode without a battery - I haven't tried this. If it will, then you can get the full range of shutter speeds with an RB lens on an RZ."

Well, you can get the full range of shutter speeds with an RB lens on an RZ body, no problem. BUT this is with the battery installed. Many people dont realise that the battery does not only control the shutter, it also controls the mirror release.

If you have an RB lens, RZ body, set the dial to RBL and have NO battery then it still wont fire.

If you have an RB lens, RZ body, set the dial to RBL, and have a battery installed, the all will be ok.

If you have no battery then you will have to follow the procedure I described in the above post...

I was just experimenting with this last night!

I have an RZ, two RZ lenses, one RB lens. Honestly I think that the electronics in the RZ are unpredictable in cold weather. There was a post above that mentioned an external battery holder - this would have to be the go in cold weather. The same goes for a Mamiya 7ii rangefinder. Mamiya supplies an external battery holder however I dont know if it can be used with teh RZ, Im still to find out.

I have always had issues with my RZ in cold weather, more specifically - shutter delay. And Im not talking -0c temperatures, Im just talking a cold winter morning in the studio. Not fun when you have people waiting around on you. After a $300+ service, mamiya described it as "an intermittent problem", fuckers. The camera has not changed in its behaviour..!

As for using RB lenses... This is possible. Set the shutter dail to RBL setting. Set the dial of the shutter release to the default (dead battery) mode (if you are looking at the camera front on, then swing the dial to the right). In these modes the mirror will release, as will the shutter on the RB lens. NOTE: this is when you do not have a battery installed. Be aware that in this mode the camera has no lock mechanisms active. In other words, if you have a darkslide in place the shutter will fire regardless.

Other issues (not such a big deal) are things like the distance scale not correlating with the lens. Ive never used teh distance scale anyhow. No big deal.

I think the RB's are better built, the mechanics much smoother and more tight. Having said this, the RZ has been my primary camera in MF. I love the 50mm lens, as I do the 110mm. Now Im going to have to make a decision. Do I use the RZ as a mechanical camera and sell my RZ lenses and replace them with RB lenses? Or do I replace the whole outfit with an RB system? bummer.

goodluck!