mrbutterworth
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Posts posted by mrbutterworth
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Thanks for looking into it Patrick!
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I would like to change my email address, but the page is unavailable.
I recall that it was disabled due to too many people changing their
user names. I don't want to do that, just my address. Is there a way?
Thanks
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Why not just buy a CLE lens? I have one for sale in *like new* condition if you are
interrested.
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Anyone know if the 35mm Hewes reels sold under the Calumet name (and available
from the Calumet website) are the same as the normal super high quality Hewes reels?
<p>
They are so much cheaper that I am a bit hesitant to believe that they are of the same
quality
<p>
Thanks, Nick
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Jay's got the right idea, but thanks for all the responses!
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I'll give Reinhold a call.
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BTW - it's a TTL
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I wrote to DAG about having M2 framelines put into my M6 for a bit
greater framing accuracy. He says that it is possible, but I will
lose the meter because there is no hole in the mask for the meter
diodes to shine through.
<p>
Does anyone know if it is possible to modify a M2 or M4 frameline
mask to allow the meter diodes to be seen? Has anyone had it done?
<p>
Thanks, Nick
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I've been shooting with Leica M's for a few years now, and I love that my M6 is small,
quiet, fast, and not battery dependant. But, there are times when more accurate
framing would be very nice, so I have been considering an SLR and 50/1.4 to
compliment my M6.
<p>
I am looking for an SLR that has the same qualities as a Leica M - small, quiet
(relatively), manual focus, and fast to work with. Above all it needs to have a good
finder � preferably with 95% coverage or greater. I can live with it being battery
dependant, but a fully manual camera would be nice. The system also needs to have
a good 50/1.4.
<p>
So far I have been looking at the following:
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Olympus OM-1(n) � seems like a great, quiet camera� any problems with these?
Better to get an OM-4 or OM-3?
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Pentax MX or LX � don�t know much about them, but heard they are a bit loud.
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Nikon F, F2 � very loud shutter.
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Contax S2(b) � seem kind of rare � thoughts?
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Leica SLR � probably a bit too expensive, especially with a 50/1.4, but I would be open
to comments
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Right now I am leaning toward an Olympus OM, but I would really like to hear what
others have to say. Is there anything that I have not considered that may suit me
better?
<p>
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Andrew:
I would love to hear your thoughts on this camera! Please post on the forum or email me after you have some time with the camera.
Thanks, Nick
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From who? Can anyone get this deal?
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That would be a Focomat 1a.
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Does anyone know when the switch was made from triangular lugs on the
M3? I used to think it was when the switch was made from DS to SS,
but I have lately seen quite a few SS M3's (post 919251) with
triangular lugs. I want to make sure I am not looking at a cobbled
together example of an M3.
Thanks,
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Could this test have been for the newer 50 Summilux R? It is suppose to be an
outstanding optic.
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"FYI, I don't have any version of the M4, but can say that the 50mm framelines in my
M2 show an area close in size, but slightly smaller than my M3--both show an area
noticeably bigger, & closer to the actual amount captured film, than that in my 0.85
M6 TTL."
Chris - Finally... this is exactly the response I was looking for! I read the thread that
you gave earlier, but there whas no comparison between the M3 and M2 (or M4). All
comparisons seem to focus on comparing the M3 (or M2, M4, etc) to the M6.
Thanks,
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Chris - I read that thread and it refers to M3 versus M6 framelines... and the M6's are
suppose to be smaller due to the 28mm framelines. I am curious about the M3
versus the M2 or M4, which are suppose to have more accurate frames.
Jay - You are absolutely right! I would love the frames to show infinity, and have tick
marks for a closer distance.
Please - if somebody has both an M3 and an M2 or M4, look through both finders
from the same position and tell me if the 50mm framelines have the same coverage.
Thanks,
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Is 50mm frameline coverage in the M2 and M4 the same as in the M3? In other
words, are they equally accurate aside from the greater magnification of the
M3 finder?
This assumes that the 50 frames in the M2 and M4 are the same - correct?
Also, what is the proper way to use the wide M3 50mm framelines? Does the inner
edge correspond to 1 meter, and outer edge to infinity?
Thanks much,
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Anyone who is interrested in a bag for your M should take a look at these. The bags
are of very high quality, and Seth (the owner/maker) is a joy to do business with.
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Are any M7 users leaving them on and in "Auto" for extended periods? Does it drain
the battery if there is no pressure on the shutter release?
It would seem like the 2 second start-up time would be a bit difficult for a quick
"grab" shot.
My other thought is to leave the camera on and set to "B", that way the meter would
not come on if the shutter release were bumped. For a shot just quickly move the
dial to "Auto" and shoot without the delay.
Anyone have any experience with the above?
Thanks,
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I recently asked Leica USA about the possibility of the MP flare fix
being retrofitted to the M6. Dave Elwell didn�t know at the time, but
was kind enough to get back to me with this:
�Here is the answer I got from Germany about the rangefinder. It has
not been determined yet if the other cameras can be modified. Right
now they are concentrating on getting the new cameras built.
The MP rangefinder has an additional lens element on the frame masks,
it is cemented on to them. This avoids straylight which has caused the
so called "white-out" problem. The solution is quite similar to the
M2/M4/M5 glass viewfinder masks. We also have changed the hole and the
geometry of the mirror in front of the masks.�
Thought this might be of interest to some of you.
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Not true... Citroen is a very innovative company that makes wonderful automobiles. They are just a little excentrique!
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I would like to put an Rodenstock APO-Rodagon-N on my Focomat 1c. I have been told that it will work, but I cannot determine if I will need an extension tube or not.
Is anyone using this set-up that might know?
Any other recommendations as to a "better" lens for the 1c? I have looked at the Focotar-2, but I they are getting twice what the Rodenstock costs.
Thanks,
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Nope...
<a href="http://www.digistar.com/rollei/2002-02/0323.html">Fuji AFM 35</a>
<a href="http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_leighs/ http://home.pacific.net.sg/~kennetht/GR1specs.html">GR-1</a>
<a href="http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/9273/">GR-1 Page 2</a>
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Sorry, try these:
<a href="http://www.digistar.com/rollei/2002-02/0323.html">Fuji AFM 35</a>
<a href="http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_leighs/ http://home.pacific.net.sg/~kennetht/GR1specs.html">GR-1</a>
<a href="http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/9273/">GR-1 Page 2</a>
<a href=""></a>
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http://www.digistar.com/rollei/2002-02/0323.html
Still doesn't say where it is made, just that it is made by Fuji.
Still, I would go for the GR-1V...
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the_leighs/
M Lenses On Digital Cameras
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
Could Jay's idea be accomplished with an EOS 1Ds? It has a full frame sensor and doesn't
require a lens-body connection as Mark Williams has proved with his macro shots.
<p>
If the mirror was locked up on the 1Ds, it may be possible to get a Leica M lens to it's
normal LTF distance. This is all in theory as I don't know the interior diameter of the EOS
lens mount.
<p>
Just a late night thought...