gfisch9862

<p>I'm a bit confused reading this chain. If you are making images of slides, you should definitely be utilizing ALL of the D810s dynamic range (14-bit) by saving them in any 16-bit format. Depending of the image content, a 16-bit TIFF using LZW compression (lossless) may provide a smaller file size, but generally, I just use NEF. You can then change WB at anytime afterwards. Make sure that your processing software e.g. Photoshop, Lightroom, etc. is set in 16-bit mode to do all you processing with the higher bit depth, then output your normal 8-bit image when you're done.<br> If you have set your exposure correctly, you shouldn't need to use HDR on a slide, which has considerably less range than that of a high-contrast outdoor scene, which is when HDR is necessary.</p>

<p>Oh, one more thing. With the short focal length lenses, diffraction starts to become an issue at around f16. Unlike the longer lenses, the physical size of the aperture is smaller at any given f-stop with the 90mm. I had a number of images ruined by thinking I could stop it down to f45 like I did with my longer lenses.</p>

<p>The one question I have for you is: How many images are you planning on scanning? If you plan on scanning many images from the same roll, consider a flat bed scanner like the Epson V800, or the newer V850, so you can get many images at once. I do both sheet film and roll film on a V850 and I'm very happy with the results.<br> If you only going to use the images for web use, one of the less expensive models should be fine. I make large, high-quality prints, so the more expensive scanner suites my needs better.<br> If, on the other hand, you only have one, or two, images on each roll, consider a dedicated 35mm scanner.</p>

<p>I used to use the 90mm Super-Angulon and is was fine with limited shift/tilt (and a bag bellows!). However, anything extreme would show obvious vignetting in the corners, so it had to be used very carefully.</p>