andre_noble3

Macophot IR820c, B&W 092 ASA 1 to ASA 6.

Neil if you're still following this thread, I located two screws on

bottom of body, and removed them. But I am not sure where the

vinyl patch is located that you're referring too. Is it the two that are

located, one on each SIDE of the body, or is the vinyl patch

somewhere on the underside?

 

BTW Tamron has a manual and exploded views for this SQ-Ai. I

have copy of each, but admittedly not the definitive expert still on

reading the exploded views.

Neil, I just discovered a similar problem with new SQ-Ai. Will

give it a try what tools needed?

Here's Bronica's explanation of why they no longer make SLR

cameras:

 

"Since the advent of digital photography, medium format sales

have declined at a rapid pace. Imports today are just a fraction of

what they were even two years ago," stated Inoue. "For Bronica,

that slip has been faster since our core customer base, portrait

and wedding photographers, has adapted well to digital SLR

equipment."

 

"These photographers are now providing customers with a

quality and cost-efficient product that has virtually eliminated their

need for the higher quality results that medium format film or

digital backs can provide," added Stacie Errera, Chief Marketing

Officer. "While some customers are faithful to the format, the

current sales volume and devastating purchasing forecasts

cannot sustain the production of Bronica SLR products."

 

The same forces are at work for Hasselblad, and soon they too

will fold their 6x6's.

 

The new selling fad is digital. Photographer's will be able to

seperate themselves from also-rans by now bragging about

their superior megabytes size instead of their superior Swiss

camera and format size.

 

But some fine art photographers will continue to embrace film,

but the pros are gone. I witnessed a huge inventory at Samy's

camera this week of used Hassleblad gear.

I would go with the Hasselblad 501 only if she is the "Love of your life", and this is like a precursor to engagement or something :>)

 

Other wise, listen to Sheldon.

Birefringement phenom:

 

 

<img src="http://www.photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=18185184">

My agitation in B was much gentler than you described, and the streaking is only somewhat mild, so the situation seems hopeful and I'll try another roll today to see if I can get better results along your lines.

 

PS, discouragingly, my negs also 'looked' very contrasty despite this near 'stand' development????

 

Admittedly, I haven't had a chance to attempt a print from them, but avoiding blown highlights is supposedly one of the sales points for using this Diafine developer.

No, student loans are forever.

Ron Mowrey seems to have the definitive information here.

This is exactly what is happening with my Lee polyester filters. The patterns in my photos look VERY simlar to the patterns in the protractor below. I will develop my remaining roll and post some actual examples later.

 

A key quote from the Oberlin page states, "The protractor shows colored bands without being deformed because anisotropies arise when the plastic solidifies when manufactured. The colored patterns

reveal internal stresses."

 

Thank you Michael for taking the time to research the issue.

PS, the Kodachrome looked much, much better after using a 10CC magenta filter in front of lens.

I bought 50 rolls of Kodachrome KR 64 fresh from B&H recently that was still appx. "7CC" too green.

 

A&I and Dwayne's did processing. Still "7CC" too green.

Marc, I live in L.A. too. I understand your concern because I've invested in a Bronica system I would like it to last a lifetime (another 50 years?).

 

Wet clothes, film, etc. dries fast here in L.A. Haven't you noticed? Here, I can re-use my T shirts 2 or three days. Back East, you have to change your T-shirt twice a day in the summer.

 

When I see photo gear being sold on Ebay, I feel much more confident in it if it's from the Western States or Texas than the deep South, Florida, or the East coast because of the fungus/rust issue.

I'm having a difficult time focusing on the words in this thread.

Lex, if you're still following this post, what have you come up with an agitation pattern in Diafine "B" that maximizes the compensating effects of the stand-type development, but doesn't result in bromide-like streaking?

 

I did a roll last night using very very minmal agtiation and got mild streaks/uneven development corresponding with sprocket holes.

I am having problems with the Lee polyester filters. I am getting

weird circular rainbow/banding/interference type patterns across my

images when using them with wide angle lenses.

I was able to isolate this problem to the polyester type filters

themselves. For example, I get banding in both the 4x5 Polaroid and

4x5 traditional negatives when using the Lee 23A Red and Lee 21

Orange, but not in an identical scene taken with corresponding B&W

glass filters shot at the same moment. Furthermore, the polyester

filters where used singly - not in conjunction with a polarizer or

any other filter.

 

The problem appears limited to use with wide angle lenses.

(Unfortunately, much of my own photography involves these

parameters). At time of use, there was no direct sunlight striking

either the filter or the filter holder which my have caused unwanted

reflections. Furthermore, the problem seems to relate to the angle in

relation to the sun at which the image is taken. The camera was

pointed appx. 180° away from the sun in the 35mm slides using a 20mm

lens, and approximately 90° away from the sun in the large format

images using a 90mm Nikkor f/8 lens and front rise. Finally, rotating

only the filter caused the �interference pattern� to rotate around

inside the viewfinder in kind.

 

I also visualized the same problem with other Lee Polyester filters

such as the Colour Temperature set.

 

After a couple phone calls to Lee Filters in England, they deny

having ever experienced such problems before despite possible

evidence such as this thread on Photonet:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005bh7

 

Anyone else have a similar experience with these (or their Calumet

equivalents)? Note: I am specifically referring to the thin Lee

Polyester filters. I do not mean the thicker Lee resin filters, nor

am I referring to the thin Kodak gel filters, which are both

manufactured using a different technology than the polyester type

filters.

 

Thanks in advance for any input you can share.

Nevertheless Shun, you just KNOW this is going to be a winner for Nikon due to the digital conversion to an equivalent 300 f2 thingy.

 

For example, have you seen what the Canon 200 f1.8 still goes for on Ebay?

NAS or STPE?

 

The 200/2.0 looks more impressive than 99.99% of the pictures the avarage guy will take with it.

I have the 85 AFD 1.8. Not really impressed with it's wide open performance, or it's gritty bokeh quality.

 

Because portraiture is so important to me, if I could do it all over again, I'd save up another 2 months, and go straight to the 85 1.4 AFD for these two reasons.

My guess is the money lenses for that situation are the Nikon AFS 300 2.8 lens or the Canon 300 2.8 IS lens.

Horseman or Toyo 6x9 back for large format.

Thanks all for taking time to make a contribution. I went with Diafine for the Tri-x. In the end, it did exactly what some above said. Outdoor shots were thick but printable negatives, and also there was barely enough meat on indoors negs for RA-4 print to Fuji Crystal Archive Paper as seen here from scan one of my student's portraits.

 

It was especially forgiving and appropriate as I processed first 10 and then 20 rolls at once in middle of the night. Not a good time to worry about exact times and temp. I ended up with about 80 usable portraits from appx. (28) 4th grade students.

Freestyle has some expired Fuji RDP and RDP II for only $20 a 100' roll. I tested a batch recently and after 05CC Green correction, it looked beautiful. Even though expired, they keep it refridgerated nice and cold

Twenty Six 35mm rolls.

Oops, didn't see the "D" as in digital.