andre_noble3
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Posts posted by andre_noble3
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My 5th grade students know that their teacher loves LF photography.
And for better or worse, I think we as LF'ers have alot in common
(personality wise).
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So, after reading a number of replies to bogus posts such as this
one, I thought of a new way to conceptualize algebra for them with
this formula:
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Large Format Photographer = "Nice Guy" = Sucker
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I second David's recommendation to get the VXL.
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Tangentially: there is an old thread by an artist working cibas 3
years back who suggests for those printing cibas to re-evaluate
transparency film use to accomodate inherant contrast in ciba's. Im
will paste his remarks. Something to think about:
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"Cibachrome (also Ilfochrome) is an increadible sharp material it
favours specially LF. The larger the film, the more naturality,
tonality and detailed Ciba. The most beautiful Cibas comes from 8x10
and bigger slides. The problems of control in color photograpy lies
most in the mastering of contrast. Develop your E-6 film with a 1
stop pull processing, that is 5 minutes in the E-6 first dev. Every
good custom lab. will do this. This will give more than 1stop in
exposure latitude. A slight color shift against minus-magenta will
occure; if this bother you, filter it away. Find a lab that prints
Cibachrome (Ilfochrome) Low Contrast material CF1k in process P-3 or
P-3X. This will give exellent results,even the more popular P-4 is
not bad either. Once you get the LF-Ciba combination you will never
leave it. -- Jan Eerala (
jan.eerala@itameri.net), May 29, 1999.
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There4s no need for bracketing and no outwashed highligts if you
don't develop your trannies full 6 minutes in E-6. I think this 6
minute concept is more a scheme of the filmindustry to obtain higher
nominal speed for their films than regards for good qualities. I
consider 5-5min 15seconds to be more of a "normal" first developer
time for E-6. The film speed will be half of the nominal, but you
will have really more exp.latitude, specially on the highlight side.
Generally, it4s not a good practice to say negative is better than
trannies, or vice versa. They shall be considered more like a
different method of expression. Despite this view, I have never seen
any in color that outstands a good polyesterbased ciba made from a LF
original. ( Ellis, why do you use Velvia? It's the most contrasty E-6
film I know.) -- Jan Eerala (
Jan.eerala@itameri.net), May 30, 1999.
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PS, to ad to this note, today saw some prints made off digital
printer in gallery, and am more convinced to cotinue my intro into
cibasa as time and money allow. Sorry if this was too long. Andre
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PS, at a Bergamont Gallery in Santa monica today and saw some very
large fiber based B&W prints said to be mounted to aluminum. (Because
the overmat covered the print edges and substrate, aluminum was not
visible for confirmation.) I guess orange peel is still an issue for
B&W fiber prints on normal museum board too? Why else was aluminum
used for mounting?....
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Ken Burns, good to hear from you again. I think David
Grubin's "Napoleon" special on PBS trounces your "Jefferson", But I
still like your Frank Lloyd Wright documentary piece :>)
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FYI, Bergger aluminum materials you made mention of, I checked, and
found they are emulsion-coated.
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Now I know what my problem is. It's my sense of resposibility.
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I just dry-mounted 8x10 Cibachromes last night at home for 1st time using Seal color mount tissue at 175 F on Alphamat Artcare museum board. Results good, with mild "orange-peel effect though, due to backing board, perhaps not enough to worry over.
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But I've heard one can get really fancy and dry mount Ciba's on an aluminum substrate for a very smooth finish. Anyone out there doing this or know of details about it,ie what type of Aluminum, where to get, what tissue and temperature? Andre
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Going to England and Ireland, bring an umbrella for the very
occaisional drizzle.
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Mr. Thompson, belated thanks for this tip. Andre
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Q or other who takes on resposibilty, seriously: Make promise to
archive all people's email who contributed on this site. Take time
to develop BETTER system. Send email when it's up and running.
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Why does anyone think we should settle for moving backwards? We have
something really good here, and technology is moving forward too.
Responses to go to photonet/yahoo route seem pessimistic, and are
baffling.
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Hey, is anyone missing an Ebony RW45 and three Fujinon lenses? Just
kidding. Lucky you.
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I am offering to run a seperate server from my apartment here in LA,
day and night - free of charge. (I live in an apartment with
utilities pre-paid by owner, whom I can't stand). Reliability will be
excellent, except when me and the guy donstairs cook dinner on our
electric hot plates at the same time. andre
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Insurance is a must!!!!!!
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I have it as an Personal Articles floater attachment to renters
insurance. Insuring the equipment itself cost appx. $14 per month per
$10,000 here in LA.
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To set up, I sent A+ Auto & Home an itemized list, they called about
large items of over a grand, and wanted serial numbers. Inexpensive
items not related such as an accesory to larger camera, are not
included (such as dark cloth vs. lens board) but may be covered
under personal articles coverage of renters policy.
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Haven't had to use it, peace of mind is well worth it.
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To help with question #2, please post exact proposed dates and cost
of workshop on thread, if possible please. Andre
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Los Angeles City College has an unbelievable, but little known
photography program. Each faculty has decades of experience. They
are all full-time faculty, and they don't promote the program,
because I think they prefer teaching smaller classes.
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If you can somehow claim California state resident status:
undeniably the best value, tuition-wise at 13 dollars a unit (typical
course is 3-6 units), you will find anywhere in the U.S.
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As a resident of LA, I would say Jim, you picked the wrong longitude
and latitude as a place to expect the kind of consideration you'd
like from the Getty.
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They at Getty probably look at us LF as another fringe special
interest group wanting a favor, instead of kindred folk... nobody
does anything out of courtesy, or for free in LA.
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You must be from somewhere nice.
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Formed famous quarterback/receiver tandem with Bob Griese in the 70's?
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Steve, in general, I enjoy technical articles relating to film,
paper, and printing - which we large format photographers tend to be
interested in. Don't be afraid to re-cover something, perhaps in a
different shade. Andre
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PS Also portraiture: any chance of getting Richard Avedon to submit
an article? Or have I missed that one already?
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Yates, I believe, is a well known Irish leader from the 1800th
century. His grave site is found outside the city of Sligo in NW
Treland, (It's set in an old monastery against the backdrop of a
beautiful bluff there.) Andre
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It may just be that Chad is a Brit. :>)
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The greatest thing I aspire to: To be able to get control of my
highlights during development.
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Paul, The people who can handle "being put on a pedestal" become the
John Sextons of the world :>) Andre
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At the risk of diluting our outstanding archives with trivial posts, I just wanted to confirm, that after reading previous "John Sexton" post I doubted it was him too. I made a wisecrack entry on post as "Ansel Baby".
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I felt a little frustrated that recently some people don't realize how vital it is that a community like ours have some measure of trust in one another. As it turns out, the 1st John Sexton poster was indeed not AA's former assistant. He could have been some John Sexton, but not AA' protege'.
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However: I decided to do something more constructive. I visited the famed John Sexton's web site, used his official email off there, and penned him a private email asking him to pay the thread and site in a visit.
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I hereby wish to confirm, based on the second "John Sexton" entry on that post, that the former Ansel Adams assistant and accomplished photographer in his own right, John Sexton, did indeed visit our site. Andre
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Thans for the tip and link. That's more what i need. Andre
Finer Points of Properly Loading Jobo 3006 Drum
in Large Format
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Using the Jobo 3006 (4x5 and 5x7 compatible drum) for the first time, and had a couple questions during a dry run loading dummy sheets.
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1) Does the 4" or 5" edge of the sheet film get inserted first into the tubes?
2) Inside each tube there are 2 "trenches" running down the length. Is the film supposed to be situated relative to these grooves in any particular manner?
3)Finally, How does one manage to put the lid on EVENLY? The fit is quite tight, and therefore my attempts have not worked, and drum will rotate with a warble on processor. Does it call for a thin layer of Vaseline, then cranking down on lid til it's on as far as it will go all the way 'round?
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I do appreciate any assistance you can give. Andre