jose_angel

I`m currently using browned Dektol I buy dirty cheap from old stocks without a problem. In fact, I have other fresh developers but I like more my oldish Dektol. Just mix and use it; if developing takes too much time, simply discard it. <BR><BR> I was not aware of RC and FB developers. I tend to think it doesn`t matter; in my experience, each developer have a very slightly different character, but most of the times it is not decisive at all for the quality of a print.

Thanks God I currently enjoy more shooting film than buying cameras to be placed on an altar like imagery. So no, I don`t need a F7. I wonder about the things a F7 could bring that a F6 cannot. Or a F3, Or a FE. Or even a EM. People buy 35mm cameras to have a try and immediately after that, they become ornamental. Most chemicals and darkroom items are bought by students that use them for a couple weeks at the "Traditional Processing" class. After that, they come back to the real work with digital processing. I think pro film cameras are not needed these days just because very likely, film won`t be a pro media anymore.

Sanjay, large format cameras are great for fun, but they ask for some basic knowledge and for a very different way of working as well (waaaay slower). It is also more expensive, and to my taste, -only worth it if you plan to process&print in your own darkroom-. The size of the format makes easier that control of the focus plane, although I bet many LF shooters rarely use movements. In my experience, although I prefer 4x5" for almost everything, you may find a difference but maybe not huge, depending on the camera, lenses, technique, etc. Personally, I don`t find LF a necessity but maybe a different approach to photography. The P1 is a studio monorail camera, -a very good one-, extremely heavy and awkward to move. This kind of heavy studio cameras are great for their accuracy, a pleasure to work with (smooth controls, rigid, with a quite practical modular design), but not the best choice for field work. AJG refer to some of this lighter, compact foldable cameras that are good enough for almost everything, and much easier to carry. Just to add to what Bob says, movements aside (which is one of the main reasons to use LF), the larger the format the shallower depth of field. So you will get more DoF using your 67II.

About the old photos, I`d not be worried. As mentioned, very likely some furniture or even old newspapers could be more harmful.

Good point to consider. It could be not the same to spend a weekend at not-that-extreme low temperatures, night and day outdoors (e.g. during a high mountain tour), and a two/three/four hours trip to the extreme cold. It may explain my bad luck with digital camera freezing... In the other side, as far as I can remember, never had a problem with mechanical ones. Just keep spare warm batteries inside a pocket (I used to keep them with me inside the sleeping bag), and try to keep control of the condensation. I also like to carry with a pocket hand held meter (L208).

Does it makes sense this new system that refloat "vintage" posts like this? Sincerely, the old one seem way more pedagogical to me.

Yes, only monochromatic film, processed and printed traditionally. I don`t miss color film, just because I find digital to be way more convenient.

Like Don, I`m also staying patient and hopeful...

I use SB800 units and I also advice not to buy it unless for low price reasons. The user interface is ugly, it is really awkward to switch between modes. Other than this it is a good powerful flash.

What a mess. I tried to fix the format but it doesn`t work. Is there a way to -at least- keep paragraphs and lines as it appear before posting? --- Edit: Funny, now it works in this post (?!?!). Hope the system will be fixed.

I`m sorry, after posting the format turned to a disaster, at least as it appears on my computer. Hope it is readable...

I think have finally found the origin of this misinformation(?), that directly comes from Nikon`s literature. It is mentioned on the F3 user manual: Caution: 1) For flash photography, it is recommended that you use a Nikon dedicated electronic flash unit which operates with a low-voltaqe current. Use of any other flash which operates af high voltages may damage the camera's circuitry Any damage caused by such use is not covered by the Nikon Warranty. This warning is included in the "Controls under detail" chapter, "Accessory shoe". Notice that the F3 was the first F with TTL automatic flash exposure control, and with an electronically controlled shutter. Although it clearly refers to the F3`s hot shoe, I understand some could extend it to any kind of flash use on the F3. Another information that comes directly from Nikon F3 published literature: "The shutter speed control, the heart of the exposure control mechanism, was based on the digital circuits which provided the control on the basis of the constant normal frequency of quartz (crystal oscillator). The accuracy of the shutter speeds in the low range in particular was increased considerably." (Nikon imaging) I understand people after reading this assume that the "high voltage" warning make sense. Fear is served. But check another one, again directly from Nikon`s literature, referring specifically to the F3: "By the way, since the Nikon F, the camera's X-contact had been overworked. With the F3, the X-contact is fixed by only one screw, and can easily be replaced. Although the use of a Nikon Speedlight does not damage the X-contact, damage can be caused by certain professional-use flash units that operate at high voltages." (Nikon imaging) Another point to take into account is the standardization of the Speedlights around the 5 volts range. The specific damage list is not related by Nikon first hand, but initially published from some reputable experts of the F3 times. Magazines, books, etc. It includes all kind of reasons, some of them make me doubt about the reality of this damage... As Rodeo explained, the oxidation issue could be somewhat exaggerated. I have no opinion here, no clue on this, I belong to another department... As mentioned above, many users (some very reputable ones), say that they have never experienced issues using third party flash heads. But most of the times are unespecific references. They also don`t specify how long they used their setups. F3 old users know that the TTL adapter for the original F3`s hot shoe standard adapter appeared too late in time... it may also explain something.

Too late for editing. Important: Please notice that same sized tanks are fine (film or paper), but the lid should be the right one for film developing. My take about Jobo tank nomenclature: The first number is the tank series. Here we want "2" series.. The second is "5" for film (flat), "8" for paper (slotted). Third is the number of reels, "2", "5" or "6". End number is "1" for single lids, "3" for cog geared lids. The one you link seem identical to the 2521.

You can use one or two reels, but think that each tank need a minimal amount of solution. If you use a two reel tank, solution must be doubled (aprox.), despite of the number of reels you were using. 2509N refers to the 4x5" sheet film reel; it needs a Jobo called "Two-reel film tank" to hold it. It may be the 2523 or any tank of the same size, it doesn`t matter if for paper (with internal slots), or film. It needs 270ml of solution to process 6 sheets. To hold two 2509N reels, a so called "Five-reel film tank" is needed. It may be the 2553 or any other of the same size. It asks for 560ml of solution. Have you checked the MOD45 system? It is another interesting choice.

... Don`t mind, follow your ideas. In the same way we use to say "if you don`t know if you need it, you actually don`t need it", here we could say "you already have an idea and want something to realize it, so go ahead and buy what you need.... " :D --- (Gosh, what an ugly smiley (green!?!?) icon... !)

Just to ad more confusion, I have found another source which refers to the idea of avoiding high voltage units. On The Nikon Compendium (Hillebrand-Hauschild), there is a specific remark to this issue. Basically, they specifically refer to lack of issues up to the F2 but possible problems from the F3 on, one of them the early contact degradation by oxidation due to that high voltage, amongst others. Electronics are not my department, so after reading your opinions I wonder if it is not an old Nikon`s wave tale to make people buying their Speedlights.

If they actually work at less than 10v, I think it may be ok, but I have not checked it so I cannot assure it. As mentioned above, there are reports that say third party units work fine, but they usually don`t mention which ones. I have some Nikon SBs, the F3 dedicated SB-17 works at less than 5 volts. My big Metzs for the F3 work at less than 5 volts with their SCA adapters. The small Metzs I have for Nikon (F3 era) work at 5 volts. I suspect my Mamiya was fryed with a big Metz (no SCA adapter), but I cannot assure it. If you already don`t have a flash unit, why not to look for the right one? (That is, near 5v range?) There are online lists that specify flash voltages. Like this one.

I have recovered it from my computer. Hope it may be useful for others. According to Nikon, about their full DSLR camera range up to date, voltages higher than 250V could damage the camera circuit. As Rodeo said, fully mechanical cameras (that is, with a shutter mechanical contact) are know as safe with any voltage. Cameras with electronic, transistor based circuits (like the F3) may be damaged. According to Nikon, the F3 is a "low voltage type" camera, so high voltage type flash may damage the circuitry. If you look at Nikon SB`s units from the F3 era, most of them run at voltages lower than 24v. So I`d never use such well know circuit fryer (the 283) on my beloved F3. Even so, I have read comments from reputable users (like Leo Foo at MIR) that refers to their luck not having problems with their F3s... but the used flash heads are not mentioned. I suspect I fryed one of my Mamiyas with this high voltage issue, and I feel so stupid to let it happen. Never ever, a low voltage head is way cheaper than a camera.

Oh my God, my post (the good one) has been deleted... !

Aaaaargh! Three posts again! Why?

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Oooops, what a mess. Don`t know what happens. My excuses.

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