William D. Lester

I'm reading from an online chart downloaded from the Schneideroptic site that indicates a 150mm f5.6 Symmar rear lens cap is 40mm. I don't know if this refers to the convertible lens. I happen to own one and have a rear cap for it - I just don't have it at hand hear in my office.

I have a similar metering prism. When I purchased mine, Hasselblad had an upgrade kit to calibrate it to the newer Acute Matte screens. The finder was returned to me with a small stick on badge indicating that the recalibration was done. They also installed a thin shim at the mount to remedy a small amount of 'sloppiness' in the fit. I now prefer using the waist level finder and don't use it much, but the prism oviously works well with all current Hassselblad cameras. I have a 503cx and a 500cm.

Mike

 

I purchased the same camera a couple of months back. I have a Technika V and appreciate the quality of all things Linhof. My Kardan Color 45S came with a 003333 tripod which is still current, a panorama head, the camera itself and a 180mm Rodenstock lens. My lens also shows a very slight bit of separation near the edge. All in all, a beautiful camera. I saw in in a camera shop and bought it to use in my small home 'studio' for portrairs and still lifes. The 180 might be a bit short for portraits and although I have a longer lens, the 180 works quite well. My camera came complete with polaroid back, five new film holders a meter, dark cloth, cable release, technika lens board adapter, etc. I paid $1500.00CAN for it. Even though I guess they are available for less, I am quite satisfied with my purchase. The guys in my camera group were impressed as well with this camera.

To Mr. de Bakker

 

Thanks for the link but as I can't read German, I'm unable to find the adapter on their website. Am I missing an English link?

This is the response I received from Bob Salomon at HP Marketing:

 

 

Yes Heliopan makes one it is #336.

 

--Bob Salomon HP Marketing Corp.

 

I have not been able to find one as yet.

Does anyone know if a 67mm to Bay 60 adapter exists? I would like to

use my Hasselblad Bay 60 filters on my Rodenstock 210mm lens. I

presently have a Bay 60 to 67mm adapter, but have not been able to

find the opposite.

Mike

 

I use Xtol 1:1 in trays all the time. In fact I've never used it full strength. I always use Patterson 5x7 trays and find that I never have any problems at all with uneven developement, scratches, etc. I don't have the times down yet for plus and minus development - but I'd be careful about going up in increments of much more than about 10% to start with. Overdeveloped TMX is almost impossible to make a decent print from. As a side note, I've found that TMX works fairly well with PMK. It's certainly not the best film for it, but it does help to control the highlights.

Simon

 

I recently purchases a Rodenstock 90mm f4.5 lens for my Technika V. I considered th 110 but stuck to the 90 because of it's slightly wider coverage. It's a big piece of glass but I love it now that I have had a chance to use it a lot. You'll run out of camera before you run out of coverage. I realize now why the flap on the Master Technika is important but for the few time that it's a problem, I can't justify replacing my Tecknika V.

I'll second the Pentax Digital Spotmeter. Absolutely the meter of choice in my opinion for zone placements. Very simple to use and extremely accurate and reliable.

Bill

 

I agree with Jim Shanesy about Tmax 400 and Pyro. I happen to use PMK. It's a very good combination. Contrary to what others have suggested, I find Tmax 100 and Pyro not bad either. It may not stain as well as other films but it certainly gives better edge effects than Xtol for example.

I use a Gitzo 1228 tripod and a Manfrotto 410 head. A perfect combination for my Technika V. I also have a Manfrotto ball head that takes the same quick release plate as the 410. Not as precise, but not bad either. It saves a bit of weight and I'm finding it very good as well.

Ilford Ilfotec HC is almost a dead ringer for Kodak HC110. I would use it any day over Tmax developer for either Tmax film.

Sounds like you have a proprietary Linhof quick release which requires a bayonet type cable release or the attachment of a small "cone" on your regular cable release. I believe the part is available from Marflex in the US.

Ampliss

I stuck with TMX in both 120 and 4x5. I'm glad I did as I find the film highly reliable and the results absolutely repeatable. I have used a variety of developers, but find both HC110 and Xtol 1:1 very well suited for this film. I always tray develop the 4x5 film and find that to work well also. Very consistent and even development. I rate the films at 50/64 for HC110 and 64/80 for Xtol. FP4 is a good film but if grain is important, TMX wins hands down. The only problem is finding enough grain to focus the enlarger on.

I personally think the Hassy is a great travel camera. I find that the 50 and 80mm lenses work best in cities - at least for my style of picture taking. I carry a small Manfrotto tabletop tripod which I like to use whenever possible and a separate meter. I have a meter prism but find composing with the standard hooded finder works better for me. I use 4x5 back here at home. I haven't the courage to travel with it overseas yet.

Would anyone know the outer thread diameter for the Schneider /

Linhof 90mm F6.8 lens. I'm looking to have a rear lens cap

manufactured by S K Grimes. I was hoping that they might know the

answer because the lens is quite common, but they have asked me to

provide the information. Can anyone help?

I use that dilution as standard. TMX rated at 50 - HC110 1:50 - 7 1/2 minutes. I use 1:50 because it's the same as the dilution I use when I occasionally use Rodinal ( which also works well with TMX ) and it save confusion when mixing. It also lengthens the developing time with some other films I use. Bottom line - it works for me.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the spiked feet from my manfrotto

075 tripod. I need to remove them in order to replace the leg locks

on the lowest sections of the legs. I tied unscrewing the threaded

stud but that left the black plastic insert which I was unable to

remove. I have to replace the entire leg lock as the newer

replacement levers are not compatible with older style locks.

Dick Dokas had an article on making your own ground glass in the May/June 2003 issue of Photo Techniques magazine. A friend of mine made one and is quite pleased with the results.

Steve

 

My experience has been EI250 - Xtol 1:1 for 8 1/2 minutes @ 68 deg.

Is it true that Kodak lists it's film developer times in order of

suitability for each particular film from the top of the list down?

Steve

 

After a lot of experimentation with the 2 developers, I've come to believe that Xtol has the edge. It generally delivers about a third stop more film speed if that matters. Negatives are finer grained and in my opinion apparent sharpness is equal. I had some failures when it was first introduced, but I've used a lot of it and am now comfortable with it's reliability. I haven't seen many, if any, postings in some time about failures. It mixes easily at room temperature and it has a decent shelf life. I generally use 5 litres in a couple of months, so that's not a big concern to me. I use water right out of the tap to mix the stock and I use it 1:1.

Larry

 

I think the price is very good. I recently had a 503cx body, an 80mm lens and an A12 back serviced by Lisle Kelco while they were still in business and the cost was 541.75 Canadian including a new shutter spring.

I used to routinely use HC110 at 1:62. The times were generally around those that Kodak published for 1:31. That seemed to work for me as Kodak's times generally produced negatives that were too contrasty.