William D. Lester
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Posts posted by William D. Lester
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<p>Jil,<br>
I have both finders only in the metered versions. And I wear glasses. I purchased the more recent PME45 because of the high eyepoint design and built in diopter correction. The finder is bright and the entire screen is easy to see with glasses on. The magnification at 2.5x is slightly less than the older finder at 3x making it a little harder to focus - I think. For best focus, the standard flip up hood and magnifier at 5x ? is pretty hard to beat, even with glasses. Either prism adds about 16oz in weight not to mention considerable bulk to the camera.</p>
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<p>I used HC110 with both TMX and TMY for years. I only stopped using it when Xtol was introduced. I do believe Xtol it is a slightly better developer. It gives slightly higher film speed, is sharp and fine grained. If you don't make large prints, I don't think the differences are all that apparent. HC110 is very reliable. I think Xtol is as well if stored properly but I had a couple of failures early on which has always left that nagging doubt about it and recently I have considered returning to HC110 because of both its reliabilty and covenience. Having said that, I haven't done it yet. Something about Xtol just doesn't want me to let go of it.</p>
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<p>Well I took Matthew's advice and developed an unexposed roll last night. It was clear. And as Jim said, I've never had an issue in my almost 30 years of using Kodak Film. How could it be possible though if different backs were used, and only at the end of the roll, and with perfectly registerable patterns? I'm going to have to spend some more time thinking this through.</p>
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<p>I recently received 20 rolls of TMY-2, 120 film. The foil packaging around the individual rolls was bright yellow, changed from the recent grey with yellow band. The emulsion number ends in 001.<br>
I shot 3 rolls and every roll showed light leakage at the end of the film after the last frame and just the corner of the last frame. The pattern in the light leak was in register with each of the 3 rolls. After discussing this with David Odess, thinking I might have a magazine problem, I tried another roll in another back. Same problem, same registration.<br>
I then shot 2 other film types in both backs with no problem. I can only assume that this is a manufacturing defect. Has anyone else experienced this?</p>
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<p>Amplis has just advised me that they are no longer the repair depot for Hasselblad in Canada. They advised that I contact Hasselblad USA. Does anyone know of a repair / parts source in Canada? I'm especially looking for light seals for an A12 back at the moment.</p>
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<p>I have both the older type PME and the newer PME45 finders. I also use a waist level finder with the meter knob. The older PME finders have accurate meters and I find the 'analogue' fstop and film speed setting dial on the side are easier to use than the PME45. The problem with this finder was that I found it harder to use if you wear eyeglasses as I do. I purchased the newer PME45 finder because it had an ajustable diopter correction eyepiece and is excellent for use with eyeglasses. The viewfinder is very bright. As well it has multiple metering modes. The settings although certainly not difficult are just a bit more cumbersome to use, at least to me. The biggest problem to me is that they both add 16oz. weight to the camera and really increase the bulk. I have found that the waist level finder and meter knob make an excellent combination for minimizing the weight and bulk. The meter knob is surprisingly accurate and easy to use. If there is any downside to this combination it is with flare in the finder. The PME finders eliminate this completely.</p>
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TMY-2 - Best all round film available today. I develop it in Xtol 1:1
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Thanks Dave
I didn't think to look at that one as I thought it was the non metered prism.
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I have just purchased a PME45 42297 metering finder and would like to have a manual for it. The Hasselblad
Historical site and Hasselblad's own websites have manuals for the PME90 finders but nowhere can I find one for the
PME45. Earnst Wildi's book has instructions for use. That is not really a problem. I would just like to find the correct
manual. Can anyone direct me to where I might find a copy?
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As a result of my previous posting regarding the M6 vs MP, I,m probably leaning towards the majority of the advice
which seemed to lean towards another M6. Some recommend an M6 Classic and others the M6 ttl. I own and like
the M6 Classic but it does suffer from viewfinder flare and for some reason the battery cover seems to work loose
every now and then.
I know that the M6 ttl has a shutter speed dial that rotates in the same direction as the meter indication which is a
good idea although I don't find the M6 Classic a problem in that regard. I know that it is a larger dial and has an 'off'
switch. Why is this 'off' switch important. The meter in my M6 Classic simply won't activate unless the film is
advanced and the shutter is cocked. Is this also true of the M6 ttl?
Also, is the viewfinder flare problem corrected in the M6 ttl? Someone mentioned an improved battery cover. Is there
a difference between the M6 Classic and M6 ttl battery covers?
I haven't used on camera flash for a lot of years so I can't see the ttl feature having much significance to me, at least
not in the forseeable future. A local collector once suggested that the M6 Classic was preferred over the M6 ttl. I
never asked him why at the time. Would anyone care to comment on that?
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Thanks for the responses. They're great - but I probably knew that like most things there is no clear cut right answer.
The M6 is a great camera and I have no particular gripes with it other than the viewfinder flare and the fact that it is probably around 25 years old. I guess.
I'm considering the MP because I can buy it new if I decide to spend that much money and as Leica states, it is a 'camera for life'. Probably the last that I would buy. My Linhof large format and Hasselblad medium format cameras have never given me a reason to want to replace them. The quality and simplicity of their design and use is what appeals to me.
I own the newer silver 50mm Elmar M collapsible lens which I purchased new, the 35mm Summicron black 6 bit which I also purchased new and a black 90mm Elmarit M? - the recent one with the built in retractible hood which I purchased on Ebay. I really don't think I want any more lenses. I just don't want to carry a lot of stuff. I have been carrying mostly the 35 and 90 lately. Even that is one lens too many at times. I was pretty happy carrying just the 50 for a couple of years. Like a friend once said to me "You work with what you've got" It was good advice.
I do wear eyeglasses and can't see the 28mm viewfinder lines with my .72 eyepiece. The .58 does interest me but I also use the 90mm and those frame lines would appear smaller with the .58 right? Maybe it is best to stick with the .72.
Am I correct in that I'm not seeing the carrying strap prtecting bumpers on the ends of the MP? Does that really matter much?
What is a MP-6? I've never heard of this.
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After using larger format cameras for a number of years I purchased a used Leica M6 Classic a couple of years ago
and have been enjoying 35mm photography again. I'm thinking of purchasing a second body for a spare as I travel.
I'm not sure whether I should look for a second M6 or look for a new or newer MP. From what I can gather there isn't
much different in the actual use of either one. I've had some one suggest that the MP rewind knob would seem
difficult after using the M6 slanted rewind. Other than that, is there any other difference that I should be aware of? Is
the MP a better? built camera? Any suggestions or comments?
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Thanks for the responses. A little background for those who seem surprised at the comparison. I've been shooting and developing black and white film for just over 25 years. I started with 35mm and FP4. Over the years I worked my way up to medium then large format. As a medium and large format user, I used a lot of Tmax 400. In the last couple of years, I've grown weary of lugging camera equipment in my travels and wound up one day purchasing a used Leica M6. The most liberating thing I've done in years as far as carrying euipment goes. The problem is that 35mm needs all the help it can get if you want to make prints that you can be satisfied with after using larger format films. I naturally went back to FP4 which is an excellent all round film and I've had lots of experience with it. The new TMY-2 came along and because I've had experience with TMY I decided to try it after reading favourable reports. It really is a nice film. As I mentioned earlier, at least to my eye, the sharpness and grain structure don't look any different than the FP4. Plus it is 2 stops faster which plays well with a hand held small camera like the Leica. I just haven't made up my mind as to how the tonality compares to the FP4. I looks very, very good and so far I think I can live with the print quality especially since I don't typically make large prints - mostly 8x10 or smaller. I was just trying to see if others had made similar observations. I don't scan anything. All my prints are made in a conventional darkroom on fibre base paper. I use Xtol as my film developer.
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I've been experimenting a bit with 35mm FP4 and the new TMY-2. To my eye, at least in the 8x10 or smaller prints I
make, I'm finding the TMY-2 exhibits grain and sharpness similar if not better than FP4. I haven't formed an opinion
on any tonal differences between the 2 films. I'm rating the TMY-2 at 320 and the FP4 at 100. The higher speed is
definitely helpful especially since I wish to use the camera hand held. Has anyone else compared these 2 films and
possibly formed an opinion as to their comparative qualities?
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Absolutely, I use the meter knob on mine all the time. It makes a great travel combo.
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Rick
I have an older VFC-6 which is similar in appearance to the newer finders. I had it recalibrated by Hasselblad and found it to be very accurate and reliable. These are a centre weighted meter. I seldom use it now as I find the weight ( 1 Lb.) and bulk to be a little uncomfortable. As well I wear glasses and have trouble seeing the entire image area. The newer PM 45 finders are high eyepoint and I have considered purchasing one just for that but it comes back to the weight and bulk issue.
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How does one know what a 'fourth' version is? Is that the made in Canada examples?
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There seems to be a number of opinons on which of the various generations of 35
Summicrons is the 'right' one to own. Some people think that the pre aspherics
are preferable to the current lens. Others suggest that the current aspherical is the
best ever. Can anyone help me to understand the differences? What might make
one version more desireable than another?
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I have the current 50 Elmar M and I wouldn't part with it. I don't have any pictures scanned that I can upload. This lens is no longer on Leica's website. I presume it is discontinued?
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I have an M6 with a 50 2.8 Elmar collapsible lens which I purchased new. I haven't
really used the camera a lot as I prefered medium format. I've begun to change my
thinking about that as I travel more and don't like carrying a lot of equipment. I
recently purchased a new CV 35mm 2.5 color skopar pancake lens as it was
cheap at around 400.00 CAN. While it seems to perform well optically, I find it
awkward to handle compared to my 50mm Elmar. Mostly when focusing. You
have to use the tab as there isn't any barrel to speak of to grip and the aperture
setting ring just doesn't seem to to comfortable to use. Is the 35 mm sumicron
more comfortable to handle? Is it superior optically? The 35mm focal length seems
to be an attractive lens to leave on the camera when travelling and I'm prepared to
spend the money to purchase one as long as I'm satisfied that I would see an
improvement and can justify the extra cost.
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I have used my Hasselblad 500cm and 503cx happily for the last 20 years or so.
As I grow older and travel more, I have started to shed the weight of my
equipment. I have removed the PME meter finder to lessen the bulk of the
camera, replacing that with a handheld meter at first and as of my last 2 trips
with a meter knob which works surpisingly well. I only use black and white
film. I tend to use my 80mm lens a lot more as well as I don't like carrying
extra lenses around. It has occured to me that I might be happy with a 203fe.
It has a built in metering system and auto exposure mode which might be handy
photographing grandchildren and should be OK for much of my travel photography.
These cameras, when available are not cheap, typically $2600.00 there abouts
with no dedicated back. Possibly $3000.00 plus with one. I have never seen one
of the cameras in person let alone hold it or use it. I'm concerned about it's
reliability and longevity because of it's electronic components. I'm concerned
about it's battery consumption - I've heard that it can be consumed quickly if
one forgets to turn off the camera. The advantages that I see are the meter and
it's ability to use the 60 - 120 zoom lens. My system is simple and reliable.
Will I actually gain something in going to this more sophisticated camera?
Would I be making a mistake and regret it? I'm looking for comments. Thanks
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I'll be in Toronto for a couple of days next week and wondered if anyone knows
if TMY2 is available yet in any of the Camera shops? Looking mostly for 120 and
4x5.
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Use a coin and rotate the small centre dial to the EI you wish to use.
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I just spent a week in Havana with a 503cx, 80mm lens and a meter knob. Same thing last year touring Florida and the Outer Banks only I used a separate hand held meter as I didn't own a meter knob at that point. These were two of the most photographically rewarding trips I've done in years and I suspect that this will be the equipment I stick with on future trips.
PM45 vs PM5.. am I just splitting hairs?
in Medium Format
Posted