lyle_gordon

What is a good way of printing kodak portra 400uc?

 

A frontier with fuji crystal archive? Optical mini-lab with kodak

royal, a frontier with kodak consumer paper, pro-mini-lab with kodak

pro paper?

 

Thanks,

Lyle Gordon

I was also wondering if I need hypo clear after using a rapid-fixer?

I want to avoid using rapid fix as the smell bothors me and it it

drips anywhere it makes quite a mess (though not the end of the

world). I would like to use a non-rapid fix. I don't know which to use

though. I shoot mainly Ilford FP4+ and HP5+. I have read that a

hardener is not recommended and that negates the regular kodak Fixer.

Any other suggestions, right now I dont want to buy bulk chemicals and

mix them myself but I may start eventually, so formulas will be

appreciated. If the use of rapid-fix is required I could use it but I

would rather not.

 

Thanks,

I posted this by mistake in the general forum so now I am moving it here.

 

I was wondering if anyone's tried this and if they have any scans? Is

it a good combo, what about other ~100asa bw films + developer combos

for all aroung shooting?

 

Thanks, Lyle Gordon

I used a polarizer here with some nice expired (10 years ago) ilford fp4 (not plus).

My father built one using lego mindstors.

 

I cant remeber exactly how but he used the light sensor and programmed it so that you would calibrate the light and dark. Then you would activate the device behind the shutter, then fire the shutter and it would time it. It was quite accurate.

If you want to use b&w film, ilford makes or used to make a disposable loaded with HP5

I shoot mainly Agfapan 100 in Rodinol but I find it a little too

harsh for portaiture. I was wondering what combinations you guys

suggest. I heard that Fp4 was nice in FG7. I prefer to use agfa

films as here in canada their considerably cheaper. I am looking for

a medium speed film 100-200. For higher speed im trying Hp5 in

HC110, Agfapan 400 in Rodinol + Sodium Ascorbate and I might order

some Calbe A49 after someone recomended the now discontinues Atomal.

 

Thanks,

I recently read an article that Agfapan APX 400 produced excellent

results in Agfa Atomal. I have been searching but have not been able

to find a distributer or a formula. I have found information that

states that Atomal is identical to Calbe A49, but then I look at dev

times for both on the same film and their different?

 

I was wondering what's going on? Is Agfa Atomal gone? Are their

different versions of it? Does anyone know the formula?

 

Thanks,

Lyle Gordon

I shoot 80% MF in an old folder and a little with my epic/nikon SLR.

 

I want a developer with a long long long shelf life.

 

I like shooting Agfa film because here in Canada it nice and cheap.

For slow speed (100) I have chosen Agfapan APX 100 in Rodinol.

 

But I have not yet chosen a faster film, I tried Agfapan APX 400 in

Rodinol but it was way to grainy. I want something that I can easily

push to 800-1600. I was thinking of Tri-X in HC110 but ive been

reading that the new tri-x isnt great in HC110. Maybe Agfa 400 in

HC110 or Ilford HP5...

 

What do you people think.

 

Tia.

Since the lens is meant for 5x5" negatives and 6x17 is 7" wide I dont it it will properly cover the negative, but these are regarded as excellent lenses although the radioactive browning might and probably does affect their performance. You could on the other hand replaced the browned elements.

I use a Welta Weltix a pre-war german 35mm folder that fits in my pocket or I use a kodak vest pocket kodak model B.

While were dreaming I want a lens that has a variable nd filter built into the front element.

You can always mount a leica lens to some old nikon slr, you get the good optics but its somewhat less appealing to thieves, you also get a motor drive and some other advatages, that is ofcourse if you mount it to something like an f100.

Why not use Agfa Scala it produces beatuiful BW slides although it is slightly expensive.

Could it damage a machine processor? Or is there no harm in trying?

I once heard that it was possible to process old rolls of film, C-22

for example as Black and White negs?

 

Is this true, if it is can I do it with any film?