lyle_gordon

I assume you mean printing them as black and white images, this will work (producing an inverted print) if the slide has no red in it as the paper is not sensative to that part of the spectrum. To produce a non-inverted print you will have to reversal process you paper, this is possible but I have not done it nor do I know how, sorry, someone will probably post shortly or you could try searching google and photo.net if you haven't already as I think I have a read a thread at one point regarding this topic.

I find HC110 easy to mix from the syrup just becareful and make sure to rinse the container or syringe with water that you add to the developer solution several times to make sure no syrup is left stuck to the sides.

This was taken with a 75mm lens on a 6x6 negative and then cropped.

 

Camera: Seagull M203 (6x6 Folder, Triplet Lens)

Film: Old Kodak Plus-X<div></div>

...<div></div>

With my medalist II you have to wind to the 1st frame on the backing paper and then engage the couter which I" have forgotten how to do as the shutter is broken in the camera so I have not used it for some time now.

Im fairly sure Nikon Made a 250 expousre back for their SLR's but you could always go digital.

You can use any company's chemicals on any companies films although some chemicals work better with specific films but thats a whole other story.

 

For example I use

 

Ilford FP4+ and HP5+ with Kodak HC110 developer, homemade citric acid stop bath and ilford rapid fix.

 

For Paper I use Ilford Multrigrade RC and Cooltone RC with Agfa Neutol Plus with the same stop and fix that I use with film.

Although it is somewhat outdated and a pain to use on a tripod, I recommend a Canonflex or a Leica with a rapid-winder.

...

I processed a roll of Verichrome Pan that expired in 65 that I found with my parents stuff. It wasent refridgerated. It was 127 so I shot it in my VPK and the results were slightly flat but otherwise quite good for a 90 year old camera and some 40 year old film. But to answer the question if the film is HP2 then it isnt C-41 process if its XP2 then just take it to which ever C41 lab you like to use and have them process it.

Most Rapid Fix's are liquid as ammonium thiosulfate is unstable in power form this is not the case with the non-rapid sodium thiosulphate thus standard fixers are usually packaged as powders. Though Ilfofix might be a liquid im not 100% sure though.

I have only shot NPZ a few times and never shot press as Im not sure if its available in 120 which it what I shoot most of the time. I liked the quality of the NPZ images but I found that it was about 1/3 stop slower maybe more than the listed 800 and when pushed it did not act as a 1600 ASA film.

 

Just me $0.02

Considering that the old sensia is the old astia I would presume that the new sensia is the new astia. Altough my crude analysis could be incorrect.

Ah, Once I saw the topic I was hoping you werent thinking what I was thinking.

I liked the old plus-x but I can't say that I like the new one, don't really know why I just don't feel it looks as nice. I use FP4 now, it works really nicely and it's not that hard to get around here in Toronto.

What about a folding MF camera, ex. Voigtlander Bessa, Zeiss Super Ikonta, Agfa Isolette. Some of the higher end ones have excellent lenses and can produce quite good results with care and understanding of their limitations.

For picture taking fun I really like my Seagull M203, a chinese copy of an zeiss super ikonta. Although I would prefer a better MF Folder I can't really afford one and this works well enough. (The lens is coated which helps).

I am fairly sure you can now order the new 100ASA velvia from B&H.

ground zero, NYC

 

technical details: Segull M-203, Agfa APX100<div></div>

What about printing a reversal print directly from the film itself. Such as a Cibachrome or a Fuji R print.

what about old women...<div></div>

Im fairly sure someone posted a reply kodak sent to an e-mail inquiry regarding porta 400UC and the message said that it was identical to supra 400. This site also says the same thing: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/supra/supra.jhtml

 

Although you could be right, but I don't see why kodak would sell porta400UC and HD400 as the same film.

I would suggest Kodak Portra 160NC the defacto weeding film, I also heard here at photo.net that supra 400 is porta 400UC so it is similiar to porta 160NC just faster and with greater colour saturation.

Here a few suggestions:

 

slow speed: Ilford Pan F 50 ASA

medium speed: ilford FP4+, TMAX 100, Delta 100, Kodak Plus-X

fast: TMAX 400, Delta 400, Ilford HP5, Tri-x

really fast: i usually use delta 3200 as its available in 120

I use small glass bottles for storing HC-110 and for most things i just use the container they came in as I use mostly liquid chems.