lyle_gordon

hydrofluoric acid, it even cleans lenses.

 

I hope everyone knows thats a joke and doesnt go home and dissolve a 2000$ lens.

Aluminium or Titanium would be the lightest but aluminum can jam or seize up easily so I would avoid that, im not sure about making things out of titanium so I would probably go with brass but im not exactly an expert in the matters.

I like to shoot Kodachrome and Fuji Provia for slides, Ilford Delta 100 in 35mm and Agfa APX 100 in 120. I also like Fuji Reala when im shooting negs.

What is the film-advance lever used for?

I had a roll of 40 year old VP processed Dip&Dunk and the results were quite good although somewhat flat but that could be the camera's fault, an old kodak VPK from the 20's.

I just felt that I should mention that of the four films mentioned the E100 films, provia and velvia are not comsumer films as the original poster inquired about. This leaves sensia which I have heard is similiar to astia. Personally I use kodachrome, velvia and provia although I guess those arn't consumer films either.

Just to add to my post I still have the camera that the movies were made on although I don't know where to get double 8mm film or if it can be processed.

I don't have a scan and its not as old as the others posted but I found some old double kodachrome 8mm tapes of my mom and her father, I watched them and found a frame I liked and got a cibachrome made (8x10). Its an amazing degree of enlargement but it has a dreamy quality too it and my mom loved. The shot was taken in the early 1960's some five or six years after my mother was born in edwards gardens in Toronto, the red tulips are as vibrant as if the shot was taken yesterday.

Im fairly certain that 828 spools are smaller than the 35mm spools in a casette.

I have done this with a kodak brownie special and some computer motherboard standoffs as spacers.

 

Here are the images I took:

 

http://members.rogers.com/lgordon/house.jpg

 

http://members.rogers.com/lgordon/neighbors-garden.jpg

 

http://members.rogers.com/lgordon/window.jpg

 

http://members.rogers.com/lgordon/table.jpg

 

-Lyle Gordon

I think i have some VP from the 80's on metal spolls but I could be wrong.

The ferry to the island airport runs in the winter, I went over their last winter and other than being very cold it was not very interesting photographically. It must be possible to get over to the residential parts of the island but I never have, although I doubt if the normal fairy to the amusement park runs in the winter.

Queen Street is great and also the kensington market area.

 

Baldwin might have some opportunities but there is an excellent little chinese bakery there so if there arn't any photo ops at least you'll get some good inexpensive food (that is if you like chinese).

 

good luck.

Personally I find APX400 at 400 in Rodinal very grainy and at 800 it would be even more so but if you dont mind the grain then I would just experiment with times although it might be prudent to try another developer with better (less) grainy characteristics.

Finest grain print film would most likely be Tech-Pan barring a few other microfilms and the finest grain colour film could be fuji reala but superia 200, I suggest you find another shop.

I feel the same way about Fp4 the glue tastes minty and nice but you just cant see the numbers to advance the film, the arrows prior to the 1st frame are nice and dark but the rest of the numbers are light grey, who knows why.

What matters is if you like the enlargment and what its being used for, I enlarged a section of 8mm home movie film to 8x10 the grain is about the size of peppercorns but the image is quite nice and the colours are beautiful (cibachrome from kodachrome). Also if you think about movies they are giant enlargments from sometimes quite fast 35mm film yet they are quite good (although movie grain is less noticible). On the otherhand grain can add to a photo; a fast film can create grain that suits the mood of the image thus allowing a large enlargemnt while some scenes and some people would prefer 8x10 tech-pan if they even make that.

Your best bet is ebay or possible older camera shops depending on where you live or maybe even camera repair places might have some old stuff. I dont know if you want to shoot with this camera as there is a good chance the shutter will be entirely unreliable and finding film will be quite difficult, processing it could also cause a problem.

I'm 17 and I use a Nikkormat Ft2 although that isnt pre-1970 its older than I so I consider it antique. But I also use a Seagull M203 (chinese copy of a zeiss super ikonta IV), a Rolleiflex, and ive also played with a welta weltix, voightlander vitessa, and a Kodak VPK with 127 film that I found in my moms stuff from 1965.

 

My favorite is the vitessa everything works so nicely and the lens is great, I could never get my head around the rolleiflex; for MF I prefer the folder.

I think the best solution is to pull over, transfer the data and then drive again. The hard drive should be fine in either case though. Ive used hard drive based mp3 players (ipod/zen) while walking, running and driving and I have never had problems.

Im going to be shooting some HIE and ive heard that the lack of an

anti-halation layer can cause problems with a non-flat pressure plate.

The pressure plate im going to use (Nikon) has a waffle like pattern

is there something I can do (put tape over it) to eliminate the

problem or is it nothing to worry about?

 

Thanks,

I have had a frame from some 8mm film printed as a Cibachrome but luckily it wasn't nitrate film.

It is also useful on MF cameras that put information around the actual exposed image.

I really like Portra 160NC for scanning and the exposure latitude is nice but overall I prefer fuji reala in both 120 and 35mm. For something faster I find Fuji Superia to be better than kodak's offereings but thats just my opinion (most of my printing is done on a fuji fronteir on Crystal Archive). I have also had good experiances with NPZ, if you need something that fast. If I need anything faster I use BW, most likely Delta 3200.

 

Hope that helps.

They are identical to the lenses for the contax I and II but they seem to be missing the lens mount, maybe they are prototypes, in the process of being modified, unfinished?

 

Just a few gueses.