pmac

Hands<div></div>

<I've used PW during abot a year, thinking PS was overpriced, overkill. Yeah, right. With PW, changing your mind means redoing the whole thing.>

 

Not if you hold on to your 'intermediate' images in PW - yes this takes up a lot of HD space - about the same as an un-flattened PS file, with all the layers intact.

 

When using PW, keep these TIFF files -

 

1. Original scan/ RAW file

 

2. Spotted and cleaned file

 

3. Your preferred crop

 

4. Color balanced/ corrected

 

5. Levels/ curves corrected

 

6. any other manipulations

 

7. Your final image

 

Burn all this onto a CD in a folder for the particular image - you can then go back to any stage and make further corrections anytime. You can probably get 6-10 'image in progress' folders on a 650Mb CD

 

PW also has the advantage of personal support from the author - when was the last time you had an email to Adobe answered authoritatively and in detail within two hours ?

 

PW Pro software for PHOTOGRAPHERS + instant support - $89.00

CD & excellent white papers + comprehensive manual - $10.00

2-3 day (vs. rest-of-your-life!)learning curve - PRICELESS

 

Hope this helps

Try Here -

 

http://www.pbase.com/copperhill/ccd_cleaning

Can you put a link, please?

GEESE?<div></div>

Hi Cassie

 

You will need to give a lot more info here for people to know what the problem is -

 

What camera?

What film?

In what way did the pictures fail - over/ under exposure, all blank, or just not what you're looking for?

Are you sure that the developing & processing aren't at fault?

How long of a bulb exposure did you make?

What was your aperture?

 

For motion shots, if you haven't done them before, bulb exposure is a little extreme to start with. If you make a picture of a busy street in daylight, say, then you will get motion effects with a shutter speed of only 1/4 or 1/2 of a second, BUT you still need to pay attention to the overall exposure, which means stopping down your aperture to a large number. This is because the longer your shutter is open, the more light you are letting in, therefore you have to compensate by closing down the aperture.

 

Bulb exposures tend to be used at night, and you still have to count and limit the amount of time the shutter is open for, because the camera (in bulb) is no longer doing the timing for you.

Most cameras have shutter speeds up to 30 seconds - if you need longer than that, use bulb, and use your watch or a stopwatch to time the exposure.

 

Hope this helps

It's Connemara, Co Galway, Ireland.

Thank you Mr Irving... but how????

Have a look here:

 

http://www.inksupply.com/index.cfm?source=html/arcink_gp.html

 

before you buy a new printer, these are archival pigment inks formulated for 1270/1280, & can be used with a CFS system, which will make your prints cheaper per than any other solution.

OK, This is bugging me to distraction, it's 500 pixels, its less than 100k, it has a caption, it's a jpeg, why doesn't it display in the post????

 

Grrrr....

Small Pony of the Apocalypse<div></div>

That's the funniest thing I've seen this year!(attachment Penguin Slap)

I have the Vivitar 19-35 Series 1 and Tokina ATX 80-200 2.8, both work fine with 10D. Vivitar (series 1 at any rate) is a fine lens.

I just received a 16mm Zenitar fish eye lens from Ru Gift. They warn you that it will take 2-4 weeks for delivery, and they were right, it took 4 wks & 3 days, but it came pretty well packed, and the company was responsive to my Email queries at the 4 week point. I'm having fun with the lens on my 10D - well worth the money. I think they have a dealer in USA for ordering, but the lens came from Russia.

See here for very informative article which should answer most of your questions

 

http://www.danheller.com/model-release.html

Yes

Oops, try again. '29 Ford

'29 Ford

>the current limitation are the ISO speed, frames per second, slow prime lenes, and lag time to process the images<

 

Not true.

 

Example - Canon 10D

 

You can, with post processing, get useable images up to 3200 ISO, use ALL of Canon's primes, and take up to 9 images in a row at 2-3 FPS. All of these features are pretty much the equivalent of a mid range film SLR. There are drawbacks to DSLRs, but these aren't. I think maybe you have 'DSLR' confused with 'Digicam', the consumer all-in-one digital cameras, to which all of your drawbacks apply. As mentioned, search the numerous Film/Digital debate threads here on PN for a full discussion.<div></div>

Thanks, RT

 

Paul

I sent a fuji mailer to AZ 3 weeks ago, I'm beginning to think it's

gone AWOL. I've searched the mailers, PN, and googled the web for a

number, no joy - does anyone know how to get in touch with Fuji?

 

Thanks

I can third the PWP suggestion - if you don't have the time to climb the Photoshop learning curve, especially.

have a look here - http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/canon-17-40.shtml

Seconded - great work in a largely thankless job - thanx

 

Paul McKeown

Don't know the cause, my 10D works fine with a Cokin circ Pola. Suggested cure - shoot RAW and AWB and play with the white balance on the computer at home - 'shade' setting shifts to the red a bit, for instance. Good Luck.