Richard Williams

On the other hand, not everyone needs fast and (e.g.) people going on an extended trip might prefer to load up on inexpensive SD cards. My D800 has a cheap Sandisk Ultra 64Gb SD in it at the moment, which cost about £20 and is fine for most purposes. There are no XQD cards in that price range. The future might in any case be the new CFexpress standard.

I'm surprised Nikon couldn't give you a straight answer - as Shun says, the aperture control won't work. 'E' compatibility would probably be the first requested feature for an 'F7', in the extremely unlikely event Nikon ever decides to make one. Is your old lens broken, or do you just want an upgrade?

This one says 'without inscriptions on rear' so you could always buy it and write the number on yourself: Leica Box Model II/III/IIIa f. Leica Who knows, it might even be yours! That it costs nearly as much as the camera it used to hold probably gives you some indication of the rarity. If yours still existed at the time, wouldn't the original purchaser have included it in the sale? I wouldn't be surprised if there are hundreds of 30s Leicas for every surviving box.

If 'not appealing' means you'd never really use the 35mm on full-frame, then perhaps you don't need to worry about compatibility and should just get the DX? You can always sell it later. Or hold off and put the money towards getting that FX digital body a bit earlier, so you can use the 50 you prefer and already have? $200 is about 1/4 of the price of an Exc D700 on KEH.

I can't imagine that's normal behaviour. The CR2025 cells ought to keep the clock running (and the data preserved) even when the back is detached. Presumably the MF28 battery gauge shows 'full' with your fresh button cells?

I wonder if we'll see the same affection for dSLRs? Few film cameras (in some respects, no film cameras) have improved on the F5, and you can still use a state of the art 'sensor'. In 20 years, advances in technology will probably make a D5 look like one of these: The Mac that saved Apple (and Steve Jobs)

If you're happy with the results from the phone app there's probably no need to bother. If you want something both cheaper and more versatile than the VC you might look at the Gossen Digisix, which is small and has an optional shoe mount, but also does incident light.

You don't need an F4, let alone a dSLR, to avoid getting poked in the eye - the F3 (for example) doesn't have this 'feature'.

Maybe your posts are full of timeless wisdom?! I'm holding out for the FM4 - hope they fix that thing where left-eyed photographers need to poke themselves in the eye with the wind-on lever to switch on the camera.

No, you should stop reading lens reviews and get out and shoot! :) You obviously like the 21mm, so you might well regret getting rid of it, especially for a 15mm (a rather special purpose lens, which for most people has more limited applications). I don't see any point in swapping an LTM 21mm for the M version with the same glass if yours performs well, especially as you'll probably take a hit on the deal. The LTM lens also has a couple of advantages if you get different bodies in the future. It's small lens that will complement (say) a Leica III very well (where obviously the M version won't fit), and if you ever get a digital M, you can buy LTM adapters with recesses for the 6-bit coding system, to be coloured in appropriately with a Sharpie (it apparently works well with the coding for Leica 21mm/2.8). Only later production M-mount Skopars reportedly have a recess you can use for coding.

I can't say I've used the current (or even a recent) version, but I liked the edition of Martin Evening's 'Adobe Photoshop for Photographers' I bought well over a decade ago, and it looks like the most recent update is well-reviewed.

I also shot NEF with the D70, using Nikon's own raw converter (Capture NX-D and ViewNX-i are the current versions, both free downloads). Dfine 2, part of the Nik collection of PS plugins that Google has now made available as a free download, would probably be a good option for cleaning up higher ISO D70 files. If you don't have Photoshop or another package that's compatible with PS plugins, you can (on Windows at least) use it in standalone mode by finding the Dfine2.exe executable in the program directory, making a shortcut, and dragging a copy of your file to the shortcut icon. Don't use the original image file with Dfine in standalone mode, as it overwrites the input file when it saves.

Some of the Sure Shots can be really worthwhile cameras. I recently picked up a Sure Shot Supreme, which has a very good 4 element f/2.8 lens with unusually close focusing. I ran a roll of expired Ektar through it and was impressed with the results. It's nice to use, except for the small and awkwardly placed flash suppression button. Luckily it hasn't suffered the price inflation of cult cameras like the Yashica T4, which has a fairly similar specification. Incidentally, I noticed someone at a camera fair this weekend was asking £200 for a Yashica T-Zoom (aka T4 Zoom). It's an unremarkable P&S of its time, with a typically slow zoom, and without the Zeiss-branded lens and the cult status of its fixed focal length sibling would be worth perhaps 1/10th of that price.

Sadly, no film camera will work with the electronic aperture lenses, not even the F6.

Mine also came with the 18-70 and I liked it enough to keep using it with the D300 that came next - it's cheap secondhand, sharp and focuses fast, There's some distortion at the wide end, but that's also true of more recent 18-x DX lenses.

I remember having a lot of fun with it. It's fine for most situations except where the AF or 3 fps and limited buffer become limiting. Be careful of blowing highlights and try to keep the ISO low, or you'll see much more noise than with current models. It has a relatively high flash sync speed of 1/500 s, which opens up a few interesting possibilities. There's only one cross-type AF sensor (the centre focus point) - I missed the odd shot when relying on the outer (line) sensors, which sometimes wouldn't find focus. The plastic covering material tends to go sticky over time, especially in an enclosed space. Some D70 bodies failed permanently with the notorious 'blinking green light of death' (BGLOD) syndrome - Nikon used to fix this for free, but I'd be surprised if they still do. Perhaps a camera that has survived this long is immune? When inserting the CF card, be careful not to force it or put it in the wrong way, or you risk damaging the pins.

This won't help much, but Fuji first used the Crystal Archive trademark 'in commerce' in late 1997, and (according to an earlier post elsewhere about dating photos) the first online discussion of this paper on Usenet was in 1998.

No reason to use alkalines if the Fujitsu (or equivalent Eneloop Pro) batteries work just as well, are rechargeable, and don't leak. They pass the self-discharge test, so now it's just a question of how many rolls of film they can power.

The shutter still fires and the F100 battery indicator is reading full 5 weeks after loading the batteries. Took the batteries out and they read 1.35V by the charger's meter.

Sometimes I have the horrifying thought that I could look back through my order history on Amazon, which dates back to when they were just a bookshop, and add everything up...

Any particular reason you are shooting uncompressed NEFs rather than lossless compressed, which are much smaller but don't lose any data?

Since I got the D800, the D300 is only used when I need the fps. On the other hand, my Fuji X100T, which has a DX-size sensor, is used more than any other camera.

The point about a UV filter with high quality multicoating (e.g. B+W MRC or MRC Nano) is that flare is (in some situations) reduced relative to an uncoated filter, not relative to an unfiltered lens. If the filter is causing you other problems for whatever reason, take it off. Note also that even good manufacturers like B+W and Hoya make uncoated filters in addition to their (generally more expensive) coated ranges.

I would also suggest the free Capture NX-D package, which has auto distortion correction for Nikon's own lenses: Tool Buttons | Capture NX-D Help | Nikon . If you're spending money mainly to fix this, it might be better invested in different lenses than in software.

It seems to be a Nikon tradition to assume everyone uses their right eye. Cameras like the FM2 are the worst, where you have to pull the film advance lever out to the stand-off position to switch them on, which risks poking left-eyed viewers in the right eye. Back in the day, I found using the focus selector a bit awkward when I tried the F80 - one excuse to buy the F100, which with a larger body and better spacing is more left eye friendly!