chauncey_walden

I have the G-Claron (Dagor version) and f/9 is no problem focusing. It's a great lens.

I have a Canon VI and only use Nikkor lenses on it with complete satisfaction.

I've had both versions of the 55 and as far as I remember the flared one is the oldest.

Did your self timer get triggered and the shutter has not completed winding down? It can be helped with a little finger pressure.

Why? I had a 1600F with most speeds working and the original Kodak 80mm and 135mm lenses. They were amazing lenses and when I had the opportunity to test the original Zeiss 80mm lens for the Hassie (a Tessar, not a Planar) it was greatly inferior to the Kodak. If you have a working 1000F body find a Kodak lens and enjoy a great camera.

At one time I had 2 Rollei P11s that I used for stereo projection. Only upkeep required was to deslick (that's a technical term) the friction roller that powered the transport. I replaced one of them with a P66 and converted the other to a halogen lamp kit that used to be available on eBay. The unmatched pair still worked fine for stereo as they used the same lenses. I also picked up a Hasselblad PCP80 for nonstereo projection. Here's a useful chart that came with the p11s:

I had a IIIc that had leaks like that which I traced to the inside side of the take up chamber. Never could find the source. In desperation just kept the lens cap on between shots and didn't change lenses except in deep shade.

I prefer the lens hood cap.

I have or have had most all of the cameras mentioned above and for walking around and shooting from the hand I would have to go with a TLR. A Rolleiflex, any Rolleiflex, a Minolta Autocord (if the focus lever moves easily and smoothly don't worry about it), a Zeiss Ikoflex come to mind. I had a great old Yashica Mat (not a Yashicamat 124!) but did not have great luck with other Yashicas. The removable lens Mamiya TLRs are too big and clunky to pack around. The later Fujicas 6x6, 6x7 or 6x9 are handy and have great lenses but may be out of your price range these days. I have a 690 with interchangeable lenses, great, but built like a brick house the kit weighs more than a 4x5 kit. SLR wise, from the hand I prefer a vertically oriented body. I have a Kowa Super 66. Great lenses. I've shot my Hassie from the hand but am more comfortable that way with the Kowa. Pentacon lenses are great but the body will let you down. I use the lenses on a Mamiya 645 with an adapter. Kievs, any Kievs, are not even worth calling a crap shoot.

And maybe the last one's user only had 1 back and just reloaded it in place --- 2000 times!

I have a 17 inch f/6.8 that works great on 4x5 and 5x7. For what camera is the bayonet mount on your lens? Almost looks like it is set up for a movie camera.

Online is suffering from the new state laws that require sales tax to be withheld based on your address (the address to which it is being delivered).

I once bought an M1 with a 35mm Summicron in excellent condition at a government auction for very little. With the 35 it was easy to zone focus. I shot a roll and sold the camera to a collector. Wish I had kept it.

I've had film (35, roll, sheet) pass through carryon scanners as many as 10 times including in places like China and Africa and have never seen any ill effects.

Fantastic! Both the planes and the photos.

The mounds sound quite interesting. In 1963 I was just starting my anthropology courses and was using a stereo camera to record our dig sites.

A great tale, JDM. I love my IIIc, IIIf, and Canon VI (with Nikon lenses) but more importantly, what did your Kansas reservoir field survey project turn up?

Only the OP's is a Black Dial;-)

The Ilex Acuton 215 f/4.8 (AKA Calumet Caltar-S) which also converts to a 14 inch is a great lens for 5x7 and at a very reasonable price. It's in my kit. Will stretch to 8x10 if necessary.

Thanks, Sandy.

Found some pictures of one: Аксессуары c. 1964 Vintage, RARE, UNUSED IN BOX BROWN LEATHER Nikon F SYSTEM CASE MINT: купить с доставкой из США на shopozz.ru - (352391716493)

No, one flat like a suitcase, hard sided brown leather, polygonal in shape with a top that zips around 3 sides and hinges open. Foam lined and fitted for the camera and 3 lenses. Came with my F in 1967.

What was the number of the flat zip up leather case?

Ben, the aspect ratio of 6x6 is part of the wow factor. 6x4.5 may get "nice pictures" comments but probably not "wow" ones - especially if it is on a wall. If you are going to do 6x4.5 on a wall you might as well just stick to 35mm. Easier and cheaper all around. But again, 4.5x4.5 Superslides cut from 6x4.5 (Mamiya made a nifty cutter just to do that) have about 2.5 times the "pixel count" of 35mm and the unique square factor and can make a good show..

Having given many public programs I can say that there is a definite wow factor from projecting 6x6 images on a 70 inch high quality square screen. You hear it from the audience when the image hits the screen and in comments after the show. Sometimes I would add some 6x4.5 images and the difference from 35mm slides is still evident, but the real stunner is 6x6. With a good height adjustable projection table there is no problem with alignment (or you can get a Hasselblad projector with built in tilt adjustments.) You must use glass mounted A/N slides to eliminate quality destroying pop. Rollei projectors are found with good quality lenses, even the zoom one which makes filling the screen easier from various distances. Another thing you can do with a 6x4.5 is to cut 4.5x4.5 superslides which can be impressive in glass mounts and use a standard 2x2 Carousel type projector.