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chauncey_walden

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Everything posted by chauncey_walden

  1. chauncey_walden
    This has not been photoshopped! This infinite focal length LTM Elmar is simply amazing in use. Need a wider lens? Just step back. Need a longer lens? Just step forward. Always works! Must have been a Monday morning hangover lens or a Friday afternoon get out of here one.
  2. chauncey_walden
    I believe the flash bottoms for early IIIs were marked with the serial number of the camera to which they had been fitted. At least the flash bottom I have has a serial number inscribed inside. I've never tried it on my camera which has a different serial. I'll do that and see if it works.
  3. chauncey_walden
    Here's a rough scan of one.
  4. chauncey_walden
    It's a Kiev. Just feel lucky you're getting the 10 pictures.
  5. chauncey_walden
    Ah, but we are still reading it and we still have our Medalists!
  6. chauncey_walden
    And, due to the age of that list, it refers to the early Symmars and Sironars and not the Sironar-N or Sironar-S and not the Symmar-S and the later Symmars. For the 210 Sironar for example add 20mm to the image circle for the Sironar-N and so forth. It is an interesting list for the older lenses.
  7. chauncey_walden
    The Weston Ranger 9 is also very sensitive in low light.
  8. chauncey_walden
    I replaced my screen by cutting one down from a Mamiya RB using directions I found online. 100% improvement!
  9. chauncey_walden
    Here's my Exa II with a Kilfitt Makro Kilar.
  10. chauncey_walden
    Click on a post and it comes up and comes up and comes up bam, bam, bam, and every other time in a new place on the screen. Have to "X" it and hope to catch it in one of the complete screens else get a reload arrow and a blank screen. It's like whack-a-mole.
  11. chauncey_walden
    Would this help? PLAUBEL Makina 67 instruction manual, user manual, PDF manual, free manuals
  12. chauncey_walden
    Be careful of the helical focusing ring. I once picked up a very nice S2a with prism and 2 lenses for $200. I was doing my usual new camera testing from hand and tripod and under magnification noticed that the images were doubled. Tracked it down to the helical which had a little play in it that could just be detected. When the mirror came down and the camera started one way the inertia of the lens more or less kept it where it was. Result was a doubled image. Found that if I totally draped myself over the camera and lens and held on with a death grip I could control it but that was not the way I wanted to shoot.
  13. chauncey_walden
    Back when, I picked up a fine Mamiya 645J body with a metering prism for a pittance and got an adapter just to use the range of excellent lenses I had for my worthless Pentacon 6. Added a new 30mm to the mix when they were totally undervalued and even picked up one of the 1.9 lenses just to have a "native" lens for the Mamiya. It is pleasant to use (even with the stop down metering) and has served me well. The Zeiss lenses are incredible, especially the 180 f/2.8 and the 300 f/4 (which work well with extension tubes also). I had a Bronica S2a once and the less said about it the better. A friend has the 6x7 Bronica and, from what I've seen of his work with it, one would tempt me.
  14. chauncey_walden
    If your shutter eventually works at 1 and 2 it may just need a good exercise session. Sit down with the lens and start at 4 (or 5 whatever is next) and cock and fire it a 100 times or so. Then go to 2 and repeat until it completes successfully. Then 1. Whenever I get an old shutter I always do a full exercise session starting with the highest speed and working down.
  15. chauncey_walden
    That same thing happened when I received my Six. Send it back to the dealer, they did something, and it never happened again. Never had a problem with my 6MM or my Super 66.
  16. chauncey_walden
    That is not an "issue", it is a "feature".
  17. chauncey_walden
    Those old Tessars will both be capable of producing wonderful images. There is really nothing like a Tessar for that. The only problem that may arise is with the 6x9 cameras not providing good film flatness. Make sure the springs for the pressure plate are well tensioned.
  18. chauncey_walden
    I think I have about all of the cameras mentioned so far and some that haven't been. A Kodak Monitor 620, if you can find one with serviceable bellows and the Anastigmat Special lens, is quite a quality camera. My Medalist II has been converted to use 120 and its lens is the same formula and quality as those used on the first Hasselblads. I have 3 lenses for my Fuji and they are all good. The biggest problem with 6x9s is keeping the film flat. The Medalist and the Fuji do a good job of it.
  19. chauncey_walden
    That ought to be the cat's meow! I had a 1600F but the short tele was a Kodak, another great lens by the way. I have a 180 Sonnar in a P6 mount and it is superb and works great with extension tubes.
  20. chauncey_walden
    GAF Anscochrome? 3M owned Ferrania Scotch Chrome?
  21. chauncey_walden
    Forgot to add that the door will close on the Geronar. My other two lenses on the Pressman were a 90mm Angulon and a 150mm Symmar S. Made a good set.
  22. chauncey_walden
    That's it.
  23. chauncey_walden
    The Rodenstock 210mm Geronar is a very nice lens on a Pressman and won't break the bank.
  24. chauncey_walden
    Is it written in Fraktur where the I looks like J?
  25. chauncey_walden
    I had to disassemble my 35 Summaron to clean it. It wasn't that difficult.
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