ron_hacker

<p>Great color prints on Epson 2880 and Epson 3880 until a windows 10 upgrade this weekend. Anyone else experienced this? Faces are now much too red. Any thoughts?</p>

<p>Thanks much for your help. However....When I open the PSC5optional/Plugins _win_en_US folder I get:<br>

(fldr) Optional Plugins<br>

(fldr)Presets</p>

<p>Opening the Optional Presets folder I get:<br>

(fldr) Bridge Startup Scripts<br>

(fldr) Win 32<br>

(fldr) Win 64<br>

Opening either of these folders gives me a list of 20 choices- none of which is //layer) presets/layout folder.<br>

What am I missing here?</p>

<p>Ron</p>

<p>I have gone through all the bells and whistles loading the plug in download for Picture Package and trying to figure out how to access it and use it. I am opening Cs5 in 32 bit and have reached the point where I can click on automate and Picture Package is one of the options. However.....when I click on it I get this error message- Cannot find any layout files in Preset/layouts. Therefore Picture package will not open and I cannot load the photos I wish to use. I am trying to put a few photos of my grandsons on one print. I have opened up a photo and it is on the screen.....but how do I create a layout that Picture Package will recognize and open up the box for photo input?<br>

Ron</p>

<p>Many thanks to all who responded to my inquiry concerning the printing side of Innova Cotton Natural White paper. I have viewed each side of the paper ( 11x17) under a floodlight and cannot tell the difference. I have viewed each side of the paper under a loupe and cannot tell the difference. I have used the wet finger test on each side of the paper and cannot tell if one side is more "sticky" than the other. So having exhausted my limited means of telling which side is the printing side I will adjudge the response of Charles Weber to be a reasonable one and likewise use the side facing up to be the side to print. Having printed of the Epson 1800, the 2200 and the 2800 I am now trying out my new 3880. So far most of the prints, on a variety of papers have been very nice, but I have much to learn. The photos below by Charles and William are quite beautiful and have set a very high standard.</p>

<p>Just opened a box of Innova Smooth Cotton Natural White and it is difficult if not impossible to tell how the paper is packed. Is it packed printing side down or up? Or does it make any difference since some papers can be printed on both sides? I tried Googling with no success.<br>

Ron</p>

It goes without saying that a repair facility may be the final solution to the problem and I have already been in contact with Epson and one of the repair facilities. I am awaiting their reply. However, These machines are heavy and bulky and shipping costs would be great. Secondly, repair and shipping costs may be greater than the amount I might pay for a used model. Thirdly, since only 1 of the contacts or wires out of the 7 is affected and I have the contact I thought perhaps that one or more of the participants on this forum may have had a similar problem and might offer advice on how they reattached the contact.

While replacing an ink cartridge one of the gold pins that is used to

communicate with the cartridge fell out. Has anyone experienced this and if so

what was your remedy.

Strange isn't it that in over 25,000 digital images using Nikons and Canons I had never seen a photo from a corrupted file until I got the Olympus C7070WZ. Then:

1. I get corrupted files.

2. Olympus and others announce that faulty Sony sensors have been producing corrupted files on cameras using this chip.

3. My corrupted photos look like all the other photos I have seen on the web as examples of the problem.

4. One does not need to take Logic 101 to conclude that a relationship exists between my photos and a sensor problem.

5. Red Herring indeed!

Since I posted this question I have learned about the faulty Sony processor chips that most camera makers have used in about 80 of their cameras. Google Faulty Chip Mars Many Camera Models in the Wall Street Journal Online and read about this issue. Most of the cameras using the chip are posed in a chart there. While the C7070 WZ is not one of those on the list it must have used this or a similar chip because the results are the same. Fortunately mine was bad right out of the box and the problem did not show up much later. I have sent it to Olympus for repair or replacement. Perhaps the sensor issue and the cost involved has led to the camera being discontinued.

I explained the problem to Olympus Support. They did not indicate what the problem might be but they want me to send it in to Olympus for repair which I will do.

I always start out with a fully charged battery and download the images using a card reader.

No, I have not used the xD card. My other digitals use the CF card and I have invested in a number of them. If Olympus says the camera should work with the CF card then it should. What cards do you use in your cameras? Perhaps while the camera is writing to the card I am viewing the previous image or fiddling with the camera in some other way that leads to the file corruption. Several of the corrupt images were sequential but this is not always the case.<div></div>

In June I purchased a C7070 as a back up for a Canon DSLR and

experienced several corrupted files on new 512 mb CF cards. Thinking

that the cards were at fault I exchanged two of them. The problem

persists. While the menu on the camera is horrorific the camera does

take great photos when the files are not corupted. Has anyone else

experienced this phenomenom and if so is there any remedy? I do

format the cards each time before use.<div></div>

Thanks Bill. I look forward to shooting the 400 UC. Scott P. Thanks for your offer, but I just returned from poking around in the bottom of our freezer,(21CF 1959 Sears with 20 CF for film and old EP2 paper and 1 CF for wife's frozen food) and I found a few rolls of Gold 100 of various vintages along with a lot of other film flotsam and jetsam.

Thanks for all the input. I plan on shooting the Reala under sunny conditions and was looking for a film to use when the skies are overcast. From previous contributors to this forum over the past couple of years I have read good reports about the Gold 100 which I have also used in past years. Richard, thanks for the Proimage photos. They look great. I have a grandson, Ben, the same age as your Ben. I think I will pick up a propack of the Proimage and a propack of the Portra 400 UC,(Thanks Scott), a propack of Portra VC 160 and from the results make a choice for my more extensive Summer and Fall shooting. What is the difference between the Portra 400 VC and the Portra 400 UC?

I will be shooting a lot of 120 Reala 100 film for landscapes this

year but I am also interested in obtaining some 120 Kodak Gold 100

if I can find a source for it. Does anyone know where one might find

it? I have seen reference to Kodak Proimage 100 on the net. What is

this film and for what purpose is it used? Any one with experience

with this film and if so what is your evaluation for landscape use?

I am revisiting this issue a year after I first asked the questions above. It is amazing what a year will bring in terms of experience and technology. In the last year I have built two more computers with lots of memory and hard drive space, both internal and external.

I too find, as many of you have suggested, that the storage task is greatly simplified by saving a number of images to one of the hard drives first and then creating the CD-R using either Roxio or Nero.

Many thanks for your input.

Thanks for all the input into my problem! Steven and Marcelo, you hit the nail right on the head in-as-much as I kept forgetting to keep the output scale at 100% and therefore I was scanning the entire transparency area. That accounted for the 350Mb image files! Restoring the scale to 100% and scanning at 2400 dpi at 48 bit color depth is now yielding file sizes of slightly over 100Mb and taking about 6 minutes. Much better!! Again, many thanks.

My 645 transparency scans at 2400 dpi and yielding file sizes of

approx 350mb are taking 19 minutes on an Epson 2450 and this seems

like an excesive amount of time to me. I am wondering what times

others are experiencing scanning 120 film or 4x5 negs or trans. My

scanner is hooked up by USB2 to a computer I just built for photo

work which has an Intel 2.4ghz Pentium 4, 1 gig of DDR 2700 ram, XP

Pro, 2 HDD drives with 8 Mb cache and I am using two SCSI 9.1 G

drives on raid 0 for the scratch disk.

http://photofilter.net/shopsite_sc/store/html/page107.html

This site states that it has a two tube set to allow 52mm filters for the 5700.

I currently have a Nikon 990 which I love dearly but want to add a 5

megapixel camera. Nikon is releasing the new 5 MP 5400 this summer at

a MSRP of $799. Why would I want to buy the 5400 when I can buy the

5700 for about the same money?? The 5700 lens has a range of 35-280

while the 5400 has a range of 28-116 ( 35 mm. equiv) You 5700 owners

out there tell me why the 5700 is a better buy for about the same

money. Now if the street price of the 5400 is discounted 20% then the

5400 would sell for about $650. The 5700 is being heavily discounted

now and with the current $100 rebate can be bought now ( I'm talking

USA warranty)for about $800-$850. How say you 5700 owners?

Thanks for all the responses. Let me try to address some of your points. Usually I scan a slide into Photoshop and work with it until I am ready to save it and have usually just saved it using Direct CD formatted disks. that way I have been able to work on a few slides at a time and when the disk is ejected it ready to be written to the next time I insert it. When the disk is full ( These are CDR's) I then have Direct CD format the disk so that it is readable on any CD-Rom Drive. My problems began when some of the files were so large that the computer, a Dell 8200 with 768MB of RDRAM memory would freeze up or crash when saving the file.(I'm sure many of the files were too big and should have been smaller) This happened so many times that I decided to build a computer with larger and faster hard drives with a larger cache and more memory. The computer that I have just completed with an ASUS A7N8X MB and 1 Gig or 2700 DDR ram works just great except for an evident conflict with the Direct CD Software

and an inability to get my two Sandisk Imagemate card readers to work with the XP Pro software. So I figured many of you had gone through all this before and could give me a clue as to what the problem might be. I appreciate all the input and have responded to several of the contributors directly. Ron

I have built a new computer expressly for photo work using Windows

XP as the OS. After installing EZ CD Creator Platinum 5 ( with all

the updated downloads from Roxio) I am unable to use Direct CD which

I normally use for saving photo files. Although Direct CD formats

the CDR disks I am unable to write to them. ( I have disabled the XP

writer)I have Nero software but the INCD is only for CDRW packet

writing. I have hundreds if not thousands of slides to scan and I

have these questions for you who have a lot of experience with

photoshop:

1. Does Nero offer any software comparable to Direct CD that will

let me save the scan directly to the CD?

2. Do you save the scan directly to a CD or do you save it to the HD

first and then batch save them to the CD?

3. The CDRW drive in the computer now is not supported by the Roxio

software but neither was a similar drive in another computer but it

all worked fine even with Nero installed as well. Is it your

experience that drives are exclusively Roxio or Nero?

4. What has been the procedure, hardware and software that has

worked best for you? I am scanning from a Canon 4000US and an Epson

2450 scanner.

Check out my response to "Grainny FP4+" below about Rodinal. Ron

I suppose that my CPA-2 processor is about 15 years old and in the JOBO instruction manual that came with the processor it states the following on page 26 of the manual:" Black and white film processing is critical in regards to eveness. Swirling caused by support members in the reel itself lead to a partially increased development. Additionally, bronium run-outs caused by the image itself may occur, which then appear as bronium smears. In order to eliminate these problems, it is sometimes necessary to remove the tank from the processor and do an inversion every 30 seconds. In this way, the solution is spread over the entire film in a favorable flow so that even critical images-for instance with plain backgrounds-can be evenly developed." I have tried on several occasions, when I have a great many B&W rolls to process, to speed up the development process by processing some on the JOBO.I have always encountered these streaking problems when I have done so and thus no longer develop B&W film, except for TMX, on the JOBO. Taking out a large JOBO tank filled with 5 or 6 rolls of B&W film and inverting it every 30 seconds negates the reason for using the JOBO in the first place. I have tried rocking the tank in the lift every so often with some limited effect. I am just wondering if anyone has found a film-developer combination, other then TMX, which has eliminated or reduced this streaking problem. I use TMX film about 90% of the time but sometimes I use Delta, Agfa and Fuji B&W films. Ron