sajeev_chacko

hi legnum,

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i don't know much about 80-200mm lens but i can say that the 70-300mm

lens is not good at the longer end, especially as you go beyond 200mm.

at around 200mm its fine but not so satisfactory. all you need is a

grainy film/slide and a tripod to have sharp photos with that lens.

hi,

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how good is a macro lens with a large focal length, say 100mm macro, for portrait. has anyone tried to do so.

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thnx

hey, who's that. its not me. the above comment is somebody else's in

my name.

Ouch... Looks like you got ripped off a little. You should try to

find a better deal next time.

well Tasha, its not at all a bad habit of using the exposure meter for

getting correct exposure. infact, i guess, many photographer using AF

cameras must be replying on this to get a correct exposure. actually

its a good idea that the camera gives you the exposure values (shutter

speed and apperture values) for correct exposure (as you called it a

GUIDE) depending on the metering i.e. evaluative, partial, center

weighted, spot etc.

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where did you buy the camera. the battery pack is ofcourse a very good

equipment, especially when it comes to stability. it gives a better

grip, extra the weight for more stability and saves a lot of buck for

the batteries.

hi there,

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does anyone has any examples of incompactibility of a third party lens or any equipment with canon EOS bodies. i wanted to buy a sigma high zoom/telephoto lens. but after reading about the incompactibility i dropped the idea of doing so. but i haven't seen many examples of the same. has anyone experienced with this incompactibility.

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thanks

your EOS 300 will show the maximum apperture of 4.0 instead of 3.8 and

not ofcourse 3.5. i don't have any such lens. but i could check it in

a shop with a sigma lens on eos 300.

<p>

secondly, you should be able to use CPL with that lens with rotating

front element. though its not very straight forward, you have to play

around with the CPL and focusing until you get the desired saturation.

What do you mean by flash exposure. as far as i know exposure corresponds to the amount of light reaching the film with respect to its speed. it can be changed by changing the shutter speed and apperture. but i don't understand whats an X sync, what do you mean by setting flash apperture. i have gone through bob atkins site on flash photography. but i didn't understood clearly these concepts of *X-SYNC* and *FLASH EXPOSURE*. can anyone explain what happens INSIDE THE FLASH when i set shutter speed and apperture, manually, automatically or semiautomatically.

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thnx

it means that the apperture must change in steps of double the stops

that a camera is capable of doing without the 2x T/C. i mean after 5.6

the next apperture value should be 8.0 and not 6.7. only then one can

go upto 64 if the min apperture for the lens is 32.

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does it affects the Depth of Field. i mean the DOF one gets with say

200mm @ f/32 and 400 mm @ f/64. will they change.

hi there,

<p>

i had post a question on apperture and tele-convertors and i got satisfactory answer. this is just an extension of that. i wonder what happens to the minimum apperture while using a T/C, say 2x T/C, with any lens of say minimum f/32 apperture. does the apperture goes further down. ofcourse, this low apperture is seldom used by most of the photographers, especially due to diffraction effects. but i just wonder what happens to the mimum apperture.

hi,

<p>

thanks for your opinions. finally i got the lens EF28-135, battery

pack BP 200, and a remote switch RS60 E3, all still having the

european warranty of few months for 450 Euros (400 USD).

thnx,

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i tried the trick by kenneth of tilting the camera by 45 degree and i

could really focus that subject properly with the horizontal

off-centered focusing points. and for the top-most (or bottom)

focusing point there was no problem for focusing. later when i did the

same experiement with more light, i had no problem of focusing with

any point selected manually.

thanks a lot. i know that IS is absolutely wonderful and this lens in

particular is remarkably sharp. thats the reason i would trade away

cheaper lenses (29-90 and 70-300 III) for just one lens. i just wanted

to be sure that the lens i am going to buy has all the feature i heard

about. thanks again.

hi,

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does anybody know whether this lens has aspherical element. on canon's

official site they have shown it. i have a chance to buy a used (around one to one and half years old), i am not sure whether it has anything of that kind. the dealers also doesn't know and i could not find it in its manual. i have just seen that lens and would buy it in a day or two. anybody know whether canon produced all its 28-135mm lenses with aspherical elements or not. its price is 449 Euros (approx 400 USD). is this price worth. and ofcourse it still has some months of canon's warranty in european countries (atleast in germany). any help would be appreciated.

<p>

<p>

thnx

hi there...

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i wonder how much that DOF scale is useful. since i have never used it

i don't have much idea about it. but i have used the DEP mode as well

as DOF preview button to set the apperture. that gives me good

estimate of how much of my picture would be focussed, though it may

not be very accurate. i also wonder where you can use that DOF scale.

i mean, may be in macro or close-up photography where you know

approximately how much DOF you need.

<p>

hey venkat... what does that "ciao" you write at the end of every

comment means.

how to overexposure a film using the ISO setting. i have a EOS 300 and i guess i can change the ISO setting in 1/3 steps. suppose i want to overexpose a shot (or possibly the whole film) by 1 stop. will a ISO400 film set to 200 (i.e. half the actual ISO speed) overexpose the film by 1 stop or 2 stops.

<p>

also i don't understand properly what happens when you overexpose by, say, 1 stop or 2 stops.

<p>

thnx

how does it compare with the two 3V CR2 lithium batteries. if i use

new set of alkaline batteries, how much exposure will i loose had i

been using CR2 lithium batteries under the situation. i just need a

rough estimate. according to the manual of EOS 300, it says that i can

have 16 rolls of 14 exposures with 50% built-in flash usage. how does

this compares with that of 4 AA alkaline (or any better batteries).

<p>

Also whats the price of new BP200 (or PB200, i guess both are one and

the same). on the canon's official site the price is 4500 Japanese

Yens ( approx. 34 USD). but at my local shop i was told 69 Euros

(approx. 60 USD).

but dave, in that case the camera with just half or full stop

apperture increment should shows 4.0 which is closer to 4.2 rather

than 4.5. this means a drop of 1 and half stop and not 1 stop with

1.5x. this is fine according to what Geoff says that a 10% is

acceptable. and i guess 0.2 is just 5% of 4.0.

<p>

also, i heard there are 3x T/C. for a f2.8 lens what is the drop in

apperture. i guess it is f8.4, but with a camera with half stop

increment, it would show just 8.0 because the next one is 9.5 which is

quite far.

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in short this is the case for a camera with half (or one) stop

increment.

<p>

f2.8 + 1.4X = f3.92 ( approx f4.0 = 5 % less than 4.2)

f2.8 + 1.5X = f4.2 ( approx f4.0 )

f2.8 + 3.0X = f8.4 ( approx f8.0 = 5 % less than 8.4)

<p>

and when one speaks of a 10% error, talking about number with the

accuracy of second decimals place is BULLSHIT.

let me make it clear again. instead of using the central point for

focusing (AUTOMATICALLY) i.e. the subject is placed at the center for

focusing and press the shutter halfway, the object does get focused.

but if i use any of the other focusing points (MANUALLY) and place

that selected point on the same subject, sometimes the subject is not

focused. instead, at times, the subject corresponding to center is

focused. this happens mainly in the low light condition.

what i meant by

<p>

"but when i use one of the other focusing points camera doesn't

focuses most of the times"

<p>

is that,

<p>

when i use the AUTOMATIC selection of focusing points, and place the

subject at the center, it gets focused properly.

<p>

but when i use any other focusing point MANUALLY, and recompose so

that, that particular point is on the subject, the subject is not

focused. i guess this should be independent of the amount of light

available. and in Tv or Av mode, without PARTIAL METERING, i should be

able to focus any subject with any of the focusing point IF IT CAN BE

FOCUSED WITH THE CENTER FOCUSING POINT.

<p>

i hope i have made my question clear.

hi,

<p>

I wonder why this is happening with my EOS 300. When the subject is at the central focusing point, the camera focuses it properly. but when i use one of the other focusing points camera doesn't focuses most of the times. but when i select focusing point, other than the central one, manually, the camera does focus the subject. whats wrong ? is it the camera not functioning properly or am i doing something wrong while focusing. please help.

hi eric,

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you have knocked the wrong door. this forum is just for canon EOS

camera and related equipments like lenses, speedlite etc. your

question is completely different than this. you can find various sites

giving very useful information about this. couple of such sites are

<p>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/"> src="http://www.photo.net/"></a>

<p>

and

<p>

<a

href="http://www.betterphoto.com/">src="http://www.betterphoto.com/"></a>

<p>

guess the links are fine.