sajeev_chacko
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Posts posted by sajeev_chacko
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if you are happy with your results, you need not upgrade it to 30/33.
instead get some good lenses which can improve the quality of your
photos. the body just give you additional features and controls. but
the picture quality depends mainly on lens and ofcourse the film.
<p>
it is no doubt worth upgrading to 30/33. i too own eos 300 and if i
can afford i would go for 30 and not think about saving $100 with 33.
i find 300 to limiting, especially when i want to choose metering
mode, the only way is to press the partial metering button or switch
over to"M" mode. its very irritating. secondly i would like to use the
mirror lock-up when mounted on tripod. next it can do second curtain
syn, FEC, ECF,... but spending extra bucks is worth only when you need
it. for what you have been doing even a point and shoot is sufficient.
but if you want to do little more its better to upgrade it to 30/33.
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i would suggest never to use auto/P mode with fill-in flash on rebel
2000 since it has very low X-synx.
<p>
regarding better exposure with eos 300/rebel 2000, if you have a zoom
lens (as in your case)
<p>
* zoom to its maximum focal length,
* point the focussing points (automatic or manual selection) to
the subject of main interest,
* press shutter button halfway to focus,
* press partial metering (*-button) to lock the exposure,
* zoom back to cover the subject as desired,
* press the shutter button halfway again (since the subject will
be out of focus due to re-zooming) and then fullway to take
the picture.
<p>
this will ensure that that actual subject of interest is properly
exposed. it may not be useful in all situations but can be given a
try. the problem with your lens is that the max focal length is just
105mm (or so) which is standard for a portrait. so you need to move
closer to the subject to do this i.e. instead of zooming the lens you
move closer to the lens to lock the exposure, move back and proceed
as above.
<p>
apart from <a href="http://teladesign.com/photo/eos-flash/"> N.K.Guy's
</a> site you can also find some useful tips <a
href="http://www.camera.canon.com.my/photography/art/archive.htm">
here</a>. it is also cited in N.K.Guy's site.
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well, i don't think you should go for an exposure meter since your
camera has everything you need (except <b>true spot metering</b>). its
also true that no professional (atleast most of them) reply completely
on the camera's or handhold metering system and do an exposure
compensation according to their requirement. one learns from
experience. some photographers will push the film for a given subject
while some others might pull it. so unless you need a true spot
metering (and may be <b>multispot metering</b>) you need not go for
any metering system other than your camera's.
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i would prefer to go for 70-200 because of its versatility (limited
till 200mm). if sharpness the issue i will go for 100mm f2.8 macro. it
can be used for the same purpose as the 100mm f2 i.e. for portraits.
but it can be used for macro photography also. you can go through <a
href="http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=0087IJ">
this </a> thread for some discussion on using macro lens for
portraits.
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i don't think its because of pressing the <i>mid-roll rewind</i>
button. because on my EOS 300 i tried to do a mid-roll rewind and i
really had to struggle a bit to get that thing pressed. i mean you
just can't accidentally press that button so often. the main cause
should be something else. since you camera is just 4 months old, you
can go you your dealer and tell him your problem. 4 months is a long
period for getting your camera replaced, but since its within the
warranty period, you should be able to get it repaired free of cost. i
wonder such a repair (even by canon) will fix the problem permanantly,
since some has faced problems even after repairing their equipments by
canon (but rarely). so you should try to play around with your camera
when its fixed and try to reproduce the problem. if its not
reproducing its probably fixed permanantly (atleast for a long time).
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minhaj, i never said that it <b>won't</b> work. but i said
<b<don't</b> expect it to work on all EOS bodies. if you are
interested in knowing more you can go through <a href="
http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=0085Oc"> this
</a> thread on this forum. it has some example of
<b><i>in</i>-compactibility of third party lenses</b>.
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as far as the lens is for canon EOS bodies, especially compactible
with EOS 300, it should work. but don't expect it to work on any EOS
body.
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doesn't your EOS 1 has any metering system. of its not working. i
don't know any light/flash meter. but somebody can help you.
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ofcourse, apperture does play an important part in making any picture
sharp. but its just one factor. as others mentioned all the variables
has to be of good quality. then any SLR is capable of capturing
excellent photos.
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do you mean F80 or N80. or are they same. i heard that the autofocus
in elan 7/7e is slightly faster than that of F80. but i never had any
chance to check it.
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there are some feathers available in either of them. like F80 has
<b>spot metering</b>, accepts nikon's <b>oldest manual lens</b>, more
custom functions (<b>18</b> compared to <b>13</b> on elan 7e), <b>3D
metering</b> (said to be slighted better than canon's <b>evaluative
metering</b>. somebody correct me). but i felt it to be too small. it
didn't felt like a nikon to me. elan 7/7e doesn't have these features.
but it has <b>partial metering</b> linked to all focusing points, all
<b>EF lenses are fully compactible</b> with it (infact with all EOS
bodies), <b>mirror lock up</b>, and the 7e version has <b>Eye Control
Function</b>. other than this rest is more or less same in both
bodies.
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<h3>
try out <a
href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/1997-/data/2001_eos-kiss3l.html">
this </a>
</h3>
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i did so and still it doesn't work.
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yes jim. you are right. though the 28-105 and 28-135IS are nearly
same in sharpness the later is worth the price. It give a higher reach
and the additional feature of IS enhances the sharpness slightly. The
weight should not matter to siddhartha since he has EOS 300/ Rebel
2000 (335g). Those who disagree on using 28-135IS over 28-105 has
bodies weighing twice to thrice to as much as EOS 300. They attach a
battery pack or power booster just increases the overall body weight
to, may be, beyond 1000g. For them the weight can be an issue. I would
really recommend to go for any IS version lens.
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<a href="http://teladesign.com/photo/eos-flash/"> here's </a> an
interesting and very useful article on EOS flash photography by NK
Guy. I have gone through it and find it very useful. Its a huge
article in 3 parts. Before you ask any other question just go through
it throughly. Most of your questions will be answered. Thanks Guy for
writing such beautiful article.
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advice on what.
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<i> apperture speeds</i> are indeed fast. try to use them on your
len,.. or may be camera. you figure out where is your apperture speed
dial. it depends on the model you use. may a custom function is
available on high end camera to switch between shutter speed and
apperture speed. isn't that a great idea. a new innovation by
<b>Canon</b>.
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if you are new to this field of photography, and want to learn then
what you have is enough. but if you want sharper picture, get rid of
it and go for a 28-105 or 28-135 IS. you can get a new or a used one.
28-135 IS is great, especially the IS. it also give a slight higher
reach. its ring USM is pretty silent. its an ideal travel lens. but
its heavier and needs expensive 72mm filters. on the other hand, the
28-105 is ligher, need just 58mm filters, which i guess you might have
but without IS. it also has similar ring USM (if not ring USM, someone
correct me). optically, i heard its slightly less sharp than the
28-135.
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Thanks guy. I never knew why this <b>adaptors</b> had any kind of
glass. But then I would say that canon should have come up with a
mount that is capable of accepting its manual lenses instead of a
completely new EF mount. I mean one should be able to attach the MF
lenses on an AF camera. Rest (metering, AF,...) need not work. Anyway,
I am not much depressed by this since I don't owe any MF canon lenses.
But I really feel pity for the manual camera users who wants to
upgrade their bodies to AF. The only remains is to get rid of all his
gears and go AF.
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if you have recently got it, get rid of it and go for another one.
<p>
whats the problem with your flash. and what kind of advice do you
want. advice for <b>how to repair</b> or advice for <b><i>the flash
appears to be an easy repair as well as a common problem</i></b>.
<p>
<h1>REMEMBER</h1
<p>
<h3>anyone can repair anything on his/her own risk</h3>
<p>
<h2>HAPPY REPAIR</h2>
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if the ambient light level is really bad, focusing <i>manually</i>
will not help not because <i>there are no manual-focus assist aids
like split circles in them</i> but you won't be able to see the
subject clearly through the viewfinder to focus it properly. when you
switch the focusing mode to MF, the sensors within the camera remain
active. so when focus is achieved, those focusing points get lighted
below the viewfinder. so overall its just that instead of camera
rotating the focusing ring, you are doing it for camera, may be to
save power or to achieve focus in low light condition.
<p>
one should select the focusing points automatically. only then you
will be able to see the effect properly. this is useful independent of
whether your eye-sight is good or bad. if the camera is not
malfunctioning, it will show the correct focusing points which
achieves focus when you focus manually.
<p>
assuming that you have selected the focusing points automatically, and
trying to focus manually, then there is an interesting point to be
noted. you will find that when the focus is achieved (i.e. 1 or more
focusing points lights in the viewfinder/LCD display), these points
are not stable but keep on changing. i mean different points get
lighted. this happens mainly when you hand-hold the camera. this gives
a how un-stable your camera is in your hand. this give rise to
<b>camera shakes</b>.
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i think Lee is right. if you use your equipment regularly you don't
need to worry about moisture and fungus. but if you want to store it
for a long period of say few weeks or months, its can creat big
problems. but even then checking your equipments regularly and
following Eekelen's advice (<i>drying the silica desicants once or
twice a month</i>) will keep away moisture and fungus.
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Why do you need to use manual lenses. Do you have them or you want to
buy them. In either case you shouldn't have gone for a AF camera.
Someone at <a href="http://www.photo.net/canon/eos-300">
http://www.photo.net/canon/eos-300 </a> said that he could beat Rebel
2000 with a 1957 camera worth just $32. So investing so much on an AF
camera and not using its features is just <i>foolishness</i>.
with a MF lens, you won't be able to <i>autofocus>, meter</i>, etc. if
you are switching from one brand (or model) to another, try to switch
over completely. get rid of your old gears and get the new/used one of
the brand of your interest. if $$$$ is the problem, then Guy has a
good suggestion. get an <b>adaptors</b>. but someone on forum said
that such adaptors has glass which lowers the optical quality. i never
understood why does an adaptor (of any kind) should have glass. but
nonetheless, you should be aware of it.
<p>
happy shooting.
USM
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
USM stands for Ultra-Sonic Motor drive for focusing. most (almost all)
cheap lenses have Micro-Motor (MM) drive for focusing. a USM drive is
silent and (may be) slightly faster than MM drive. if you take a
little effort to go through various posting in this forum under the
category <b>EOS Lenses</b> you will find much more useful information
about lenses. everyone will suggest you <b>NOT</b> to buy the <b>kit
with 28-80mm or 28-90mm lens</b>. since you have not yet bought the
camera you can think about buying only the body and lens separately,
probably 28-105mm or 28-135 IS lens.