sajeev_chacko
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Posts posted by sajeev_chacko
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Chan, i don't think thats the main reason for Canon's product being
more expensive. because Canon products can be twice as expensive as a
third party product which is not justified. As noted by Isaac, a
third party product can be used bodies of different companies. So they
can afford to reduce the price where as Canon produces equipments only
for its own products.
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something got screwed up in the url. try this
<p>
<a
href="http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=008C7S">
Some suggestions (sajeev)
</a>
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yep. thats the reason for this
<p>
<a
href="htpp://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=008C7S">
http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=008C7S </a>
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lee is right. as long as the optics of the filter (UV or skylight) is
good enough, you don't have to worry about anything else. the main
idea of such filters is to protect the lens which can be served by any
good quality filters.
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Hi everybody,
<p>
So far all of you have been kind enough in answering my every question. I guess I don't bore you too much with my questions. Since i felt that this is platform for discussion I ask whatever come to my mind.
<p>
The question I would like to ask everyone is that why does Canon want to keep its monopoly. Why does Canon asks for more money for the similar camera and equipments. Body is fine. What about lenses, flash and other accessories. I mean all the Canon users would be very happy to see Canon's lenses being sold at the price nearly equal to that of Sigma and other third party lenses. Higher end third lenses can be as good as Canon's in much lower price. Ofcourse, a third party accessory can have future compactibility problem. But is this the only reason for a high price in Canon accessories. Sigma's EF 500 Super is almost equal to Canon's 550 EX flash in nearly half price. I guess Canon users are pretty much disappointed by this. Or is Canon charging for its NAME. May be Canon doesn't want its users to go for a third party accessories. In every manual Canon writes *USING A THIRD PARTY ACCESSORY WILL CAUSE THE EQUIPMENT(usually body) TO MALFUNCTION. So far, I think, nobody has seen any such problem or than incompactibility with newer bodies.
<p>
What do you think about this ? Should Canon change its strategy to satisfy its users or maintain the present status ?
<p>
I am quite new to this field of photography. My question is based on what I have heard and read in last few month. May be I am wrong. But I would like to know whats the actual reason. Your opinion about this regard would be useful.
<p>
Thanks
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well Lee, i guess, even taking off the hood will not help much,
especially when you are shooting at lower focal lengths like 28mm. i
took a couple of shots at 28mm with built-in flash of my EOS 300 and
got the lens shadow at the bottom. but when shot at higher focal
lengths and cropping the bottom, it worked as usual.
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Is there any difference in the accuracy in metering a particular subject by a pro EOS 3/1V, midrange EOS 30/33 and the low end EOS 300/3000. For instance, if EOS 300 gives a shutter speed and apperture of, say 1/180 sec and f/8, in a some custom mode, then will EOS 30 or 3 give anything different for the same subject. Ofcouse, EOS 3/1V is capable of changing the EV in 1/3 stops. This will anyway increase the accuracy in metering. In other words, are the light sensors better (in terms of accuracy) for high end bodies.
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i could get upto 6 points in focus but never all the 7 points. i
wonder what happens when all the 7 points are green. it mean either
all the points are in focus or none, the later being most likely.
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i have a EOS 300 + ef 28-135mm lens. i don't think that weight or 72mm
filter size is a major problem. if you are not carrying too many
lenses then its ok. with this combo and a battery pack BP200 it gets a
professional camera look and feels similarly. that increase in weight
increases the stability when you handhold the camera.
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hi,
<p>
that lens is not really good for any such photography you mentioned.
its very soft at the longer end. you really need to be careful with
it, especially when you are planning to enlarge the photo to 8"x10".
you will have to get some long primes or a macro lens.
<p>
what do you mean by "iso200 film,eg kodak gold 100,yield grainy
photo". kodak gold 100 is a iso100. its a good film but good enought
when the subject is steady and when you are shooting with a tripod or
light sufficient enough to give you high shutter speed.
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no no. there was no filter or anything similar. i know its only due to
the body. but i am not sure how serious is this problem.
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this is a very general question. anyway there are lots of websites
which give some basic information about photography. a couple of them
are
<p>
<a href="http://www.photo.net/"> http://www.photo.net </a>
<a href="http://www.betterphoto.com/"> http://www.betterphoto.com </a>
<p>
if you are very interested in learning photography you can go through
some good books recommended by <a href="http://www.photo.net/">
http://www.photo.net </a>. the other way is to join some photo couse.
there are some online photo courses available at the above mentioned
sites.
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hi,
<p>
i have a problem with my EOS 300. yesterday when i was trying to see a candle light through my camera i find that in landscape view (horizontal viewfinder) i could see the light clearly. when rotated by 90 degrees (potrait view of the viewfinder) i saw one more image of the candle light as if diffraction through the pentaprism. i confirmed that the problem is not due to the lens. i kept the body horizontal and rotating the lens i did not find any such images. so it has to be either the mirror or the pentaprism. has anyone experienced this kind of problem. is this a serious problem. do i need to take any special care. i know that it won't effect the final picture. but i am still little bit worried about it.
<p>
thanks
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hi there,
<p>
as far as picture is concerned, mirrors and focussing screens doesn't
matter much. but i wonder whether focussing depends on the light
reflected by the mirror. in that case, of course the final picture
would not be well focussed.
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it sounds only when i mount the lens with batteries in the camera.
when i mount the lens without batteries, it doesn't sounds. but next
when i inserts the batteries and close the battery cover, the same
sound is heard. is it due to the USM and/or IS being initialised due
to the batteries or i have to get it checked through the dealers.
<p>
thanks
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preston... do you shoot the actress's headshots with a 100mm macro
lens. if you get a close-up of her, its more of a macro photography
than a portrait. the idea sounds good, marrying macro and portrait
photography.
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thanks derek. but this happens even when IS of off i.e.on "0". well,
let me check it again. i think i will hear the sound again. in that
case i have to get it repaired (possibly free of cost) from canon.
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yes. what Eekelen said is true. i didn't realised this. one should not
unmount the lens when the IS is ACTIVE. there is no problem in
unmounting the lens with IS on "1" as far as you are assured that the
IS is not active. thanks Eekelen and Tope for your useful bit of
information.
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hi there,
<p>
i bought a used EF 28-135mm lens from the local dealer. i find that when i mount the lens a sound is heard as if the apperture blades are stopped down or some kind of contact sound. this happens only when the batteries are loaded, both types of batteries: 2 CR2 lithium or 4 AA size alkaline batteries in the BP 200 pack. what could be the reason. is there any problem with the lens or the body. i have EOS300. please help. the lens still hold canon's warranty in the EU countries and ofcourse the body too.
<p>
thanks
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i heard that using a macro lens for general purpose (which seems
possible, atleast from above comments) will effect the functioning of
the lens elements quite early. the lens gets damaged in a couple of
years or true. how much is this true.
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how far is your subject from the camera. i guess its not too far. then
in that case you can use a remote cable release. i don't know whether
it has any wireless remote. but the remote wire can be extended by
some means so that you can press the shutter button while holding the
reflextors. this will ofcourse take care of the exposure at the time
of reflector light.
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well, then thats a good equipment to have. being a fixed focal length
lens, a 100mm macro lens, is far more versatile than the telephoto
lens with same focal length for just a few extra bucks and some extra
weight.
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canon says it should not be done. but it doesn't say what happens if one unmounts the lens with IS on "1". does anybody know what happens. one may forget to switch IS off before unmounting. or the IS might get switched ON before mounting and unknowingly on might mount the lens with IS ON. will either case affect the functioning of IS or lens or the camera.
<p>
thanks
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yours is a Type B camera. so you should go for E or EZ series flash
namely the Speedlites 300EZ, 420EZ, 430EZ, 540EZ. for some more
details you can go through the site
<a href="http://teladesign.com/photo/eos-flash/">
http://teladesign.com/photo/eos-flash/</a>.
<p>
regarding lenses, you should be able to use any EF lenses by canon. if
the lens is not malfunctioning, then its the body which is unable to
autofocus. so changing lens will not work. you will have to get it
repaired.
Fungus and dusts in Lenses
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
this is a major problem with lenses. have you checked at you nearest
canon service center or camera repair shop. neither i know how to sove
this problem. even i would like know about it. somebody please comment
on this.