sajeev_chacko

thanks preston. i always used to get confused with <i>center-weighted

metering</i> and <i>spot metering</i>. i think now i can make better

use of <i>center-weighted</i> and <i>partial metering</i>.

as far as i think you should not have any security problem. take care

that you inform them about your gears and get it checked that you have

so and so equipments. get a receipt of this. this will be useful when

you return back.

Whats the difference between them. I always wonder about it. How much percent of the viewfinder at the center (for <i> center weighted metering </i>) and that for <i> spot metering </i> is used. Well, it might depend on which model you are looking at. But on an average it should be fairly same. Is spot metering related to the other focussing points other than the center point.

<p>

Thanks

also what about batteries for speedlite 380EX. can i use lithium

batteries for that and which rechargeable batteries (if restricted)

can be used for that.

<p>

thanks

which kind of rechargeable batteries can be use in BP 200 battery pack. the manual says with Ni-Cd it gives so and so exposures but doesn't say about which kind of batteries can be used. according to the manual, i cannot use lithium batteries for my EOS 300. is there any such restriction on use of rechargeable batteries. or all kinds of AA-size rechargeable batteries can be used in BP 200.

<p>

thanks

i completely agree to isaac. its ofcourse a big issue when it come to

information and security especially when people are using names of

others maliciously. i would be really happy to see some security given

to this important forum.

steve is right. if you don't mind the extra size and weight, 28-135 IS

is an excellent lens, especially the IS. having the IS can help you

stop down the apperture to get sharp picture. its known that most

lenses are sharpest when stopped down 1 or 2 stops in apperture. and

this IS is equivalent to 2 stops of shutter speed. also the range 28

to 135mm is good as a all purpose travel lens.

<p>

a second thought i would give is get rid of your 28-105 and go for a

1.4x T/C. you already have 28, 50 and 100mm lenses which covers the

wide angle to medium telephoto lenses. these lenses will have better

optics than the 28-105 or 28-135 lens (someone please correct me if i

am wrong. i don't own any of these fixed focal length lenses). so you

will have a coverage from 28mm to 280mm f/5.6. which will be a better

travel kit.

i think isaac thats a big problem. people come to this forum for

getting some useful information. if anyone uses yours or someone

elses' name to posts any damn message that will just lower the

reputation of this forum. there should be a way to stop it, may be by

registering the users. now how should i believe which of your message

is posted by you, the first one or the second one.

hello ian,

<p>

i too bought a eos 300 from germany and called them to send an english

manual. 2 days later the english manual was in my letter box. if you

are still in germany you should be able to do so.

<b> In M, turn the finger dial to set aperture, turn the finger dial

while pressing thumb button to set shutter.</b>

<p>

hello peter this is exactly the opposite. to set the apperture you

<b><i>turn the main dial while pressing thumb button <h3> (* button)

</h3> to set shutter </i></b> and to set the shutter speed <b><i> turn

the main dial. </i></b>

true. i am not photographer. but that doesn't mean that i should not

shoot. in future if i am able to afford expensive equipments i won't

look back. but to start with this is what i can afford.

<p>

anyway, thanks all of you for you feedback.

thanks all of you. actually, i am not a photographer. i like

photography and want to develop a hobby. secondly, i have a 28-135mm

lens and a EOS 300 body. i can't use the built-in flash all the time

though i don't use flash very regularly. i wanted to go for an

external flash. even 220EX could have served. but i a second hand

380EX is cheaper than a new 220EX (though a SH 220EX will be quite

cheaper than a SH 380EX). secondly, 380EX has a much higher reach.

thats the only reason.

you can also go through the notes on scanning at

<a href="http://www.photo.net/learn"> http://www.photo.net/learn </a>

vsit<a href="http://www.scantips.com/"> http://www.scantips.com </a>.

it give a good piece of information on scanning photos for web and

storage.

well, as far as you don't expose the same part of the film multiple

times, you can go for correct exposure. but for exposing the same part

multiple times you have to underexpose the film with the same stops.

for example if you are exposing a film of ISO 100 for two times,

underexpose it by one stops for every exposure so that the sum of all

the exposures will correspond to correct exposure (or under/over

exposure if you wish to push/pull the film). or you can expose the

film twice as 1/2 stop + 1 and 1/2 stop depending on the subject for

each exposure. but be careful that you are aware of the metering

modes. because a correct exposure for evaluative metering might be

overexposure for stop metering. so taking all factors into account you

decide the stops for each exposure.

whats the difference between them. if a flash is capable of FP flash at high sync speed why should one worry about his body not giving a high shutter speed with flash on, for ex. Rebel 2000 has a X-sync of 1/90sec but even with a 380EX one can go upto 1/2000sec in high speed sync mode. i always wonder about this because in many reviews on R2K its low X-sync is mentioned as a weakness.

<p>

thanks

thanks isaac. oh yes. its 75-300 i wanted to mention.

<p>

well, which one would you go for isaac. as you said there are two

versions of 70-210 with F4 and F3.5-4.5 of which the former is not

very good. but you have 70-200 F4. so could you please make it more

clear exactly which i should i go for the F4 or F3.5-4.5.

<p>

Also one more question. Is the maximum focal length of 70-210 equal

(or close enough) to 210mm. Geoff Doane,

<a

href="http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=007psx">

here </a> on this forum said that a <B> <I> a 30-180mm lens can be

sold as a 28-200, and still be within 10% </I> </B>. how much is this

true in case of 70-210mm lens (both F4 and F3.5-4.5 versions). that

doesn't matter much for me. but just as a matter of fact, i could like

to know about it.

<p>

thanks

Which has better optics. As far as I know all the three versions of 70-300 has similar optical quality. Is it better than the old 70-210. Please help.

<p>

Thanks

what's your problem then ? what dioptre correction lens do you need. i

guess the one you want must be available with canon.

why the hell does a *ADAPTOR* needs glass. it just coverts the EF

mount to a FD mount. i don't understand the need of glass in it unless

it also does the job of a T/C or something similar.

thanks Guy. it was really a very useful piece of information. as i

said i have not yet encountered any such problem. but the article by

toomas has surely helped me to take proper precautions. thanks again.