sajeev_chacko

i have kept my EOS 300 without batteries for few days and still it remembers the number of frames, film ISO and some setting like the apperture and the shutter speed set in Av/Tv/M mode. when reinserted, it selects <i>automatic</i> focusing points. so changing or removing the batteries should not be a problem with any EOS bodies.

i doubt its sufficient for the situation you mentioned. i have shot

under such conditions using EOS 300 + EF 28-135mm IS USM + 380EX.

since i had an IS lens, the effective X-synx of the body turned out to

be 1/350 sec. and ofcourse, this lens is much superior to what you

mentioned. although i was not much disappointed, i was not much happy

either with some of the shots. i haven't enlarged any. but i think i

should be able to get some descent enlargements to certain extend. but

a 4x6" should be quite good enough. well, i am talking about sharpness

with the 28-135mm lens. secondly, i was shooting from very close

distance, just a few feets away from my subject. i doubt about

equipments. others who has more experience in this regards can help

you better. but i thought i can atleast discuss my experience with

you.

Hi,

 

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Recently there has been lots of questions concerning the instruction manual for EOS 300 / Rebel 2000. Has the forum maintainers and/or anybody else done anything about it. Its irritating to answer the same question. Its true that the newcomers to the forum should go through the forum properly before asking any question. But searching out relavant information is sometimes troublesome and hence instead the newbies prefer to repeat the same question. If the maintainer atleast keep a search engine on its site it would be easier for others to search relavant information. Another alternative to this problems is to catgorize the information already available on the forum. Since the second alternative is quite painful, they can atleast try to go for the first option of puting a search engine.

Guy, i exactly meant electrical contacts like the one one any

teleconverters. since <b>NO</b> filter, manufactured so far, has any

such contacts, there should be <b>NO</b> problems for using any

filters on any lens (of the same size, ofcourse).

you have a great body...???

if you have both the 77mm ultra thin filters and EF 300mm f/4 lens,

try it out. unless and until there is any electrical contact, any 77mm

filter should work with any lens having that filter size. you just

have to be careful about vigneting. if you don't see any vigneting

through the viewfinder, then i guess that you won't have any problem.

the second statement <i> the only converters...</i> should be read as

 

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the <i>only</i> <b>off the camera (OTC)</b> converters available are

<b>high resolution scanners</b>.

yes... there's a way of converting a film camera into digital. just

put on a <b><i>film to digital converter</i> </b> which as per my

knowledge nobody manufactures. the <i>only</i> converters available

are the <b>high resolution scanners</b>. just go for it and enjoy

digital shooting.

hi rajeev,

 

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i too bought a similar camera and 28-135 IS USM lens. but i am not at

all unhappy about the results. whats wrong with your results. i mean

are they not very clear/sharp or they are pitch dark in low light

(when the sun is gone) condition. under such condition the full auto

mode of your camera choses very slow shutter speed, may be below

1/30sec. in this situation you should use a sturdy tripod. and

ofcourse, getting the proper exposure with any camera is the most

difficult task. once you achive that you will never be unhappy about

your results. composition can be learnt from various photos on net and

your own experience. but exposure is <i>the task</i> to learn. you

should go for Av or M mode of your camera in most of the situation.

 

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<i>My point & shoot camera takes better picture in those conditions (

I tried it this time to see the difference) </i>

 

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because your P&S might not be capable of setting a real slow shutter

speed of few second or so. whereas your EOS 300 is. so under low light

condition, the auto mode takes advantage of this and sets the slowest

shutter speed with the largest apperture under low light condition

using the Evaluative TTL metering method.

 

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i have shot many photos in pitch dark with EOS 300, 28-135 IS USM and

380EX flash. i am quite satisfied with the results.

 

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you might need an external flash, especially for some extra power

output. the built-in flash is not good for many situations. so an

additional external flash can be useful. for some details of flash

photography with Canon EOS cameras you can go through <a

href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/"> N K Guy's</a> site.

Does any Rebel has <i>SPOT METERING</i> ????

go through <a href=" http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-

fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=008ngA "> this </a> thread on this forum.

Go through the site by <a

href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/"> N.K.Guy</a> and

learn a lot on EOS flash system. You should be able to do FEC even

with R2K. I could do so with some tricks suggested by Guy. Just go

through the notes. They are excellent. Read all the 3 parts throughly

before using any technique mentioned by him.

Everything is <i>the best choice</i> in that price range. A Nikon or

Minolta is worth its price as is Canon. If the following equation is

satisfied, you get best out of you. The equation is...

 

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<h3> <b> <i>

$$$$ = the best choice

</i> </b> </h3>

 

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If you can afford, go for the best. Among the bodies you mentioned, I

would recomment EOS 30/Elan 7e. I won't give the reason, since it has

already be mentioned by many in reply to this question as well as

elsewhere on this forum.

 

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Get anything you can afford and enjoy shooting.

What's <i>conon</i>????

 

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puppy face, only EX series flashes are capable of E-TTL and none

other. what you mentioned i.e. <i>EZ</i> series units are A-TTL

capable. so you pressed <b>Z</b> instead of <b>X</b>.

What's <i>conon</i>????

 

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and puppy face, only EX series flashes are capable of E-TTL and none

other. what you mentioned i.e. <i>EZ</i> series units are A-TTL

capable. so you pressed <b>Z</b> instead of <b>X</b>.

nobody know whether 30/33/elan 7/7e has a plastic mount because all

the bodies manufactured (<b><i>i guess by Canon</i></b>) so far has

metal mounts.

yes, an external speedlite can help you solve your problem to some

extend since it can have sufficient power to light up your subject.

but in really low light condition the camera will show very slow

shutter speed in Av, Tv and M mode. but using the flash in P mode can

help you. this mode will not bring the background. but if the

background is not too far (ex. in a closed room or restaurant) then P

mode can give pretty good results.

$$$$ = best buy

hi lex,

 

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i bought a 380 EX (used one) from a germany. the manual was also in

german. i wrote a mail to canon for an english manual. they send the

manual. it wasn't free but instead believed me and send a draft of

about 10 Euros to be signed by me. you can do the same. if its working

in germany, it should work in many other european countries as well as

US.

 

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<i>bottomline</i>: i also got an english manual for EOS 300 and EOS 30

<i>free</i> of charge from canon.

gr8 advice kenneth. allen does need such a kit.

absolutely true...

 

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as pointed out by preston, if the lens is made for Canon EOS cameras

it will surely fit. But no guarantee of working. I mean <b><i>the

compactibility</i></b> problem.

Well, the title of your questions suggestions something else i.e.

something about <b><i>Polarizers from Canon</i></b> and not concerning

<i>compensation</i> to be done with a polarizer. It would be good if

you give a proper title something like <b>Exposure Compensation for

Polarizer</i>.

<i>When you use autofocus, only the end of the lens will move.</i>

 

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on a non-ring USM lens.

 

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But focussing is done with a touch button - <i>the shutter button</i>

or <i>* button</i> just like a point and shoot zoom. Press the button

until you get the sharpest possible images in the viewfinder.

Preston, if you are right, then I got the answer. I didn't want to

know the performance of any lens at any apperture. I wanted to know

whether a better lens can give higher shutter speed than a low quality

lens at the same apperture. I felt that there should be no difference,

since many photographers use hand held meters, especially when their

camera is not capable of doing so. If it works with an external meter

without the lens, it should probably work with any kind of lens,

unless otherwise as pointed by Steven, that the lens is

exceptionally bad.

 

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Anyway, thanks both of you.

Just curious to know it.

 

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Its knows that a good (optically, ofcourse) lens give sharper image. But how much role does it plays in getting the correct exposure. Suppose, one shoots a subject, in <b>Av</b> mode at a <b>fixed apperture</b>, <b>same metering</b> and sufficient light, how much gain in shutter speed he gets with a optically good lens over a bad one. Ofcourse, it depends on the lenses. For instance, a 300mm f/2.8 Vs 300mm f/4.0 at f/8 probably won't make much difference in EV. A 75-300 set at 300mm will definitely make. But how much ?