john schroeder

I've done an extensive internet search for this camera and I haven't found anything. The only marks on the camera are patent pending. It's a 12 exposure, magazine fed, box camera. The shutter is a simple open/close mechanism. All help is appreciated.

 

<p>I was given a Canon Pro 9000 Mk II printer. I want to replace the color inks with grayscale inks. I have found many suppliers for Epson printers but none for This Canon. Has anyone tried this before? I've considered buying some empty cartridges and filling them with black ink but I doubt that would deliver any tonal range. A search of the forum yielded no answers.</p>

<p>All objects fall at the same rate. If I take a G12 and S3100 and release them at the same time from the same height they both become junk at exactly the same time.</p>

<p>You can send the camera into Nikon and have the sensor pixel mapped. They will turn off the offending pixel. </p>

If you are missing shots because you need to be at 24mm and can only shoot at 28mm then yes upgrade your lens.

If you are considering upgrading your lens because you think the new one will make you a better photographer then

you are better off spending you money on a seminar or on a nice photo trip.

<p>If you want a Holga buy a Holga. (Sarcasm is just one of the services I offer.)</p>

<p>Did you check the rear element for finger prints or other shmutzs? </p>

<p>Get a better flash. As stated previously the SB-600 is a great little work horse. I've had one for years. ($230.00)<br>

Get a faster lens. Your choices are a bit limited here because your camera only supports AF-S lenses. To keep your auto focus you would need the newer 70-200 VR lens which is $2500.00 The 50mm f1.4 AF-S is $500.00 and the 35mm f1.8 AF-S is affordable but doesn't give you any magnification. There are many advantages to better glass. Better image quality, faster auto-focus, and better light gathering ability. You have to decide what is in your budget. $2500.00 sounds like a lot of money but if you compare it to what other people spend on their hobbies it isn't. If you had a sail boat you would spend more on a set of new sails. If you were building a hot rod you would easily spend more on a performance engine or transmission. Precision carpentry tools can easily cost more.<br>

Boost your ISO. While shooting in auto modes the camera limits the top end of the ISO. Setting the ISO up to 1600 will allow you a faster shutter speed but you will sacrifice some image quality. You would only need to do this in poor lighting.<br>

As you get better you could start to sell your images to the other parents. I have several friends who have become the school sports photographer. It's a great way to support your addiction, I mean hobby. Giving the school high quality images often leads to better access for you. I have one friend who son plays high school basketball. The school has allowed him to install strobes with radio triggers above the court. </p>

<p>Check the reviews at photozone.de</p>

<p>I'd say I shoot in <strong>A</strong>perture priority 80% of the time. 10% I'm shooting in <strong>M</strong>anual. The rest is devided between <strong>P</strong>rogram and <strong>S</strong>hutter priority.</p>

<p>I never felt threatened at any time while I was in India. Everyone I met (except one guy in Agra) was friendly and hospitable. Indians seem to love getting their pictures taken. A perfect reason to bring a 50mm f1.8 and a small flash. The people in Dehradun were great. The folks at Sanjay Gupta's Sony shop were kind enough to charge my cell phone for me. I guess the road from Delhi to Dehradun can be a bit hazardous, my friends wouldn't let me out of the SUV.</p><div></div>

<p>Travel light. Keep your gear to the absolute minimum. The two weeks I was in India I never needed anything wider than a 28mm (18mm APSc) and nothing longer than a 70mm (50mm APSc). I was traveling with a D700 and a 24-70 f2.8. It was too heavy. My life saver was a 50mm f1.4 and a small inexpensive flash. Bring spare batteries and extra plug adapters. DON'T eat anything which isn't hot. (Except yogurt) In retrospect I wish I had taken a D90 and my 17-50mm f2.8 lens. It would have been much easier. A good point and shoot is a must have. I would recommend a G12 or the Samsung TL500. Things you should not travel without. Good insect repellent, sun screen, hand sanitizer, and toilet paper. You will need a good, secure, over the shoulder bag. The Temba Messenger or the Crumpler 6 million dollar home would be good choices. Good hiking sandals and lots of cargo shorts and t-shirts. I would bring a prescription for cipro in case you get Bombay belly. If you are going to be in Mumbia (Bombay) I can give you a list of decent restaurants. I have friends who live there. If you are going to Goa be sure to eat at "The Ritz Classic" they have amazing food.</p>

<p>There is no technical reason why, some day, they couldn't build an FX camera as small as any 35mm point and shoot. The smallest 35mm point and shoot cameras which I can recall were the Minox 35, Rollei 35, and the Olympus Stylus Epic. It would take some integration of electronics and, most importantly, the belief that the money would be made. I personally would love an Olympus Stylus Epic full frame digital. How about a digital Nikon 35ti with an FX sensor?</p>

<p>I'ts just as good a camera today as the day you bought it. Stop measurebating and go take pictures.</p>

<p>I would keep what I have and use the money to take a photography trip.</p>

<p>My Dandelion chip has been installed for several months now and no problems. My 20mm f3.5 does require a +1 e.v. exposure compensation. Beyond that (non issue) it works like a charm. My 20mm has become the main lens for my second D70 body. These little chips are going to cause a $$ increase on eBay for older non-cpu lenses.</p>

<p>Just make sure it's insured against theft and breakage. Policies like this are fairly inexpensive. The only caution I would have is about the weight of the gear. </p>

I just chipped my 20mm f3.5 Nikkor. It is critical to install the chip properly. It is rather fragile due to it's small size. There really isn't any way to make it bigger and have it work properly. My first attempt ended miserably because I didn't position it properly and bent the pins. On the second attempt I used a depth gauge to properly position the chip. Measure twice glue once. Programming the chip is rather straight forward. You MUST read the directions. There is a reset function if you screw up the programming. If you use a super glue type adhesive cover the pins with a bit of gaffer's tape. Cyanoacrylate based based glues out gas and cote the pins. A light touch with some emery paper will clean it off but the chip won't work until you do. Let the glue harden for 24 hours before reinstalling the lens mount back onto the lens so the out gas doesn't coat the rear lens element.

Zorki's are like French cars. With a elbow grease and know how they remind you of German cars. ;)

I've been doing some research. Most gems are treated with cedar oil to hide the little scratches left by polishing. This is an accepted practice and won't hide flaws in the stone. Cedar oil has the same refractive index as most gem stones. similar to waxing your car. It won't hide rust or a dent but it helps it look good. I cleaned the stones prior to photographing them. Stones like this are bi-color. The color of the stone changes depending on whether the light is reflecting off the stone or passing through it. Photographing a stone with reflected light is easy. To capture the light as it passes through the stone is hard because the cut of the stone is designed to scatter it.

The only light is from the point source at the back. Maybe a little from ambient room lighting. This was taken at f14 with my 60mm micro. The lens is about four/six inches from the stone. The light source is a black drink straw attached to a small flash with gaffer's tape. What is showing up are ultra fine scratches from polishing the stone. This doesn't show up under normal lighting like you mentioned but normal lighting doesn't show the color of the stone when light is transmitted through it.

<p>Lets try uploading some photos again.</p><div></div>

<p>I am trying to photograph some gem stones for a friend. when I light the stones to show their internal color every microscopic flaw is shown and they look really ugly. How do you light gem stones to show their internal color? I've been using a point light source to shine through the gems from the back.</p>

<p>I was just informed that I mistakenly referred to the pancake lens as a 20mm when it is a 30mm f2.0 pancake lens. </p>

<p>I mean cameras in this price category. Olympus E-PL1, E-P1, E-P2, and Panasonic GF1. I would even choose this over a Canon G11 even though this camera is larger with it's zoom lens. It's a nice camera and well thought out. It has a few quirks but all cameras have those. It does a great job sitting in the middle ground between a true SLR and a point-n-shoot. </p>