lance_blakeslee

The ancient 2mp Sony Cyber-shot dsc-u20 reminds me of a subminiature in size and styling. Unfortunately, finding one that actually still works seems unlikely.

I too like the results adapting vintage lenses to an older mirrorless body. I don't understand why my Nikon mount 12-24 Tokina refuses to render a usable image on the mirrorless but it's truly awful. It works fine on a Nikon D90. Next modern camera I buy will be a mirrorless with IBS and fully articulating screen.

That's a great point re the superior shutter button on various Ikoflex models. My Rolleicord Vb has an awful double action lever to charge and fire the shutter. The Ikoflex avails itself of a super-bright viewfinder consisting of a condenser and focus screen arrangement which is much brighter and easier to focus than the pedestrian Rollei ground glass. Don't get me wrong, I love the Vb but have a great appreciation of Zeiss-Ikon products and engineering.

The old 15" 360mm 5.6 Graflex Tele-Optar covers 5X7. More modern is the 210mm Schneider Symmar which is fairly inexpensive and convertible to 370mm.

I've been shooting Instax Mini in 2X3 Speed and Century Graphics more or less successfully, loading the individual sheets into modified double sided film holders. The modification consists of cutting back a small strip off the inside of the hinged wooden flap of the sheet film holders. Very simple job with the idea you are opening the inside up a bit to clear the developer packet when replacing the darkslide. The exposed films can be processed in a Instax Mini camera or with some ingenuity, pulling the film through the rollers of an old Polaroid pack film camera. Hadn't thought about trying this on a Medalist or Rolleiflex via the single exposure backs but will look into that asap.

I've been using the same 6X7 for over 20-years. My 105mm hasn't yellowed but has developed a mild separation at an inside edge of the rear element. You can find waist-level and and vertical magnifying viewfinders readily on the bay if you're not partial to the eye-level prism. I've heard that the film advance mechanism can wear out so confirm it winds smoothly. Another possible gotcha is the tiny chain inside the front mirror box area which couples the metered prism to the aperture ring. I also have the SMC 45mm for wide and a much older 200mm which is a phenomenal portrait lens.

You can take a marking pen such as a sharpie and ink the areas of the mount you suspect are binding. Attach and twist the lens until it binds then remove lens and examine the mount where the ink has rubbed off. You'll get a good idea where the problem lies.

If this was an ebay transaction you should contact customer service immediately. If not, who sold it and then disappeared?

I'm one of the guys who love the Vb and the many accessories such as the 16 exposure kit. Only failing is the combination shutter cocking/firing lever. Knob wind is no biggie.

You are posting the question on the extreme, retro, instant, etc forum. A better place might be in the classic manual cameras section. Better yet would be camera & lens repair but I don't think that's available here. You can try the Yahoo camera repair group or perhaps APUG. Best wishes,

I just tried 35mm in an S2 back. The film winds on through to the end of the roll and never cocks the shutter. Emboldened by this experiment I tried 35mm in a Bronica SQ-A with 220 back. This camera winds, cocks and shoots the film perfectly. It took about 18" of film leader getting to the 1st frame and managed 16 exposures on a 36 roll.

"shutterfinger" on one of the analog photography groups works on Graflex cameras and is very knowledgeable. I have a 5X7 Press Graflex SLR which works well but is very rough in appearance. Only difference I see between Series B or C or D camera mechanisms is the shutter curtain is would opposite at the top but there may be other differences as well. The Press Graflex has a different back than the Series B or Home Portrait models. Film holders or the special Press Graflex bag magazine are attached by a couple springs rather than the "Graflex back" slide at the top. Mine has been adapted to take standard slotted Graflex back film holders. I love this camera.

You must like nice things. Is that a Thorens turntable? I have a TD-124...

Are you using a Minox flash? I suppose a workaround for the aperture would be adjusting the ISO setting the bottom of the camera.

Robot Star also takes a regular 35mm cassette. I don't like this new format either... It's a shame because I've always liked visiting this site.

<p>Not a very good video. A pictorial of the products over the years would have been most welcome in my house. Oh well, perhaps they'll get in right for 2117...</p>

<p>Does the shutter wind and fire with the back removed? If it does, check that the gear on the back body of the camera turns as you crank the advance. If all this checks out you may have a bad back.</p>

<p>I've had a couple medium format cameras which imprinted similarly to this: Pentax 645NII and Fuji GA645. Sorry I don't have any negs at hand for a direct comparison. Best wishes,</p>

<p>The whiteface also contains the serial number rather than being stamped into the top of the front standard. The late T's and 'Cords share this feature as well. Big identifier is the company name changed to "Rollei Werke". Best wishes</p>

<p>Alan, you can buy an accessory adapter to shoot 16-frame 645 format on your T. I use one in my 'cord Vb and really like the format and extra frames. All the best, Lance</p>

<p>Interesting. the first camera shown is reminiscent of the Kodak bantam Special. I'm curious who you sold the 75 cameras and the variation of the design between them? Were all these Polaroid cameras, modified for modern films? You mention accolades from the photographic community but site no specifics or links to back up your claims. Perhaps we have a language gap here? More specifics would end the confusion many of us feel regarding this. All the best, Lance</p>