s._c.

<p>Thanks for all the great info. I will probably use sheet film for a while. Looking forward to getting some real mileage out of this camera. </p>

<p>Thanks for all the great info. I will probably use sheet film for a while. Looking forward to getting some real mileage out of this camera. </p>

<p>A couple of year's ago, I was sitting with my then girlfriend on a boulder in central park showing her my hasselblad. A little sad, she said "it's not digital, like my cybershot?" Guess I'm showing her, I got a linhof technika a couple of weeks ago. </p>

<p>I actually will probably never hand hold this camera, so I don't think getting a cam for it will be a serious inquiry. I'll probably look into a 90 and maybe a rollex back. Thank you for all your help. Can't wait to get some real time off to use it now.</p>

<p>Thanks Bob. Is there a way to identify if the cams for sale are for the III or the IV? Thank you all.</p>

 

<p>I'm pretty sure it is a iv. 63819.  It has the adjustible infinity stops for 150 and 90.  It just looks grey compared to the tan bed and leather.</p>

<p>So I finally got my first linhof. I think it is a IV, despite the store saying it was a III. It doesn't have that u shaped handle to pull the front standard onto the rails. It looks like the modern cameras with two dark buttons that get squeezed together to release the standard to be repositioned. It has forward and backwards tilt on the front standard. It is grey in color for the leather (could just be dirty tan) and the metal bed. The lensboard looks like the modern lensboards, just grey as well. No cam, came with the convertible 150 symmar. I think the numbers on top are 63819. The bed is not flat. It has the rotating back with the hood. I would appreciate more information on the model and tips for using this camera. I intend to use this for landscape and some table top stuff. I think I need an adapter for the lensboard cable release. Thanks in advance.</p>

 

<p>Try Nippon Photo Clinic. Around 26th Street I think.</p>

Sounds like a good option with that route. I intend to use this ring with portraits, so at 200ws, I imagine I may get around f11 at 3/4 length depending distance if I use my 80 or 150 sonnar. I would prefer to be able to vary the output so I can do some tabletop stuff occasionally. Any chance the round 4 pin plug will fit directly into a norman 200b or lumedyne and if not, are these plugs available anywhere? Thanks.

I just received my hasselblad ring flash from keh. Now I am on the hunt for a good power source. I have the older

metal plug with 4 prongs. I have read about the norman or lumedyne conversions. I don't know if this plug will fit

directly into the metz ct 60 battery pack (and if it does, is it possible to vary the power output?). What is the

maximum power that could be put through the ring? If I could get up to at least 400, that would be great. Thanks for

all your constructive suggestions.

Preferably less than 400. The alien bee ring looks like it may have enough power, hopefully not too much. My friend handled one, but he said it felt a bit flimsy. He has the sunpak dx12r, which is discontinued and has mixed reviews from what I understand. How much of a guide number should be adequate? Thanks.

I shot a model over the weekend using a friend's discontinued sunpak ring flash that had enough output. I would like

to use this technique more. It seems like many of the current portable ring flashes are not that powerful. I don't

imagine shooting more than 15 feet away. I didn't want to be tied to the tripod with the Profoto ring. I need it to

accomodate up to 67mm filter size. Any suggestions (without breaking the bank) will be greatly appreciated.

I have this lens. It should fit the copal 0 size which I believe is just under 35mm. So, if you take off the retaining ring, it is still not able to fit into the hole? I have the flat side against the board so it sits flush.

I don't own any filters in that size yet. I have a graduated ND Hitech 0.6 in cokin P that I will probably use on this lens. Instead of an extension ring, I was considering a step up ring to prevent any possible vingetting in case of movements.

Sorry, I think it was 67mm on the front (sleep deprivation). I didn't measure the back yet. The caps I own from schneider are a little soft for my other lenses and the kaiser's are flat. I have to go to BH and find out what is available other than those two. Hope to get to try this lens out soon to check the results...seems pretty positive from what I've read here. Thanks.

Well, I cleaned the front with some ROR and the second mark seemed to disappear, however the middle one is still

there. No gouges into the glass from what I can tell. I paid a little over $200 for it, so I think I will keep it and give it a

try. What step up ring would you suggest for this lens? Do you keep a UV protector on it most of the time?

Thanks.

I just picked up a nikkor 210-w 5.6 with the 77 filter thread. I noticed there are two small ~1mm circular coating

marks with one in the middle and the other just about 1/4 inch away from the center of the front element. I have

heard that the front element of this lens protrudes out a bit and can rub against filters placed on it. Other than that, a

few specks of dust on the inside, the lens looks great. Does anyone have any experiences with this problem and

has it affected the images in any way? I am reluctant to return it since the price was very good. Thanks for your

experiences.

Oh, I get a lot of stares too when I take out my zeiss maximar with a roll film back or my rollei.

We picked up a stick on film covering from Shield Zone and so far so good. From what I understand, they use this material on military helicopter props. I would have liked a rigid protective cover too like the one my brother uses on his A700.

My manual says 75mm lens will have image cut off by the vertical position, no cut off with 90mm with neutral settings. Lenses shorter than 75mm need a recessed lens board 180-640 (12040) 12mm for 58-75mm lenses. I haven't tried my 75mm S.Angulon yet. Hope this helps.

Despite the exposure compensation button being stuck on mine, it's a nice compact body holding my sharp 50 1.4.

Looks like a type of plaubel. Good luck.

Well, the store was willing to give me a refund or for a bit more a fully working yet older vintage body in demo condition. It had the older blue plastic buttons. I think I liked the newer body better so I think I will just use the iso dial to adjust as needed. Thanks for the information.

I checked the in camera meter against a gossen pilot II and it seems accurate. I tried pressing the silver button but I think it is stuck down without actuating the exposure compensation. The button is recessed down that I can't depress it past the square housing. I tried pressing with a pen tip on the button and it doesn't seem to move. I just got it on thursday, so I think it will have to go back to the store for warantee repair.

I just picked up an EM with a 50 1.4 for sentimental reasons. I think my

exposure compensation button is broken though. I remember it as a blue plastic

button, here it has only a silvery flat one instead. I tried to push down on

this part and it doesn't seem to move. I may bring it back to the store in a

week. Any thoughts? If it is stuck, is there something that someone has tried

here? Thanks.