s._c.

I have the fifth edition and it covers the 503cw as well as the 500c. It also details older equipment as well as the new. If you get an opportunity to see the book yourself, you can decide if it is for you (especially if you already have acess to an older edition). Other than the differences I mentioned before, the 503cxi and cw can accept a removable side mount motor drive with infared sensors for wireless remote release (there is something called an apcam if you really need a motor but there are other options than that). If these things aren't of major concern then don't worry about it and start learning the equipment you already have. Oh, I use a Bogen/Manfrotto 3221 with a 3047 pan head, but I think it is time for a good ball head. If your initial results are good, then they will only get better with usage. This is definitely a good system to grow with. Enjoy.

It sounds like you have a good set of lenses to start with. It's probably more lenses than most people own. I've used two manual 12 backs and they perform flawlessly (albeit maybe slower in loading). Check for light leaks at the darkslide slot. The seals will probably need replacement. The best thing is for you to do is to get a copy of Wildi's Hasselblad manual and to start using the system (remember to keep the body cocked before changing lenses...real important to avoid jams). Only you can be the best judge if this system (body) works for you. Start shooting and check the results. If the screen is original, it may be a bit dark. You can do a search on this site for solutions for that body (assuming when you look at the screen with the finder off and there are no tabs on either side that slide laterally for quick change...transition body just prior to 500CM). The obvious advantages of the newest bodies are better internal flocking, gliding mirror system avoiding long focal length viewfinder vignetting, and easy screen changing. Enjoy the system.

The hood has kept my fingerprints off the lens/filters on more than one occasion. When you can get one, do so. I always use one on my 3.5E3 Planar. Enjoy the camera.

I use Allied Color almost exclusively. They are a professional lab with good results. Development & proofs take about a week at about $7 a roll. They are located at 6605 20th Ave (718)232-4888. Let me know if you need to see examples. There is another lab in Brooklyn named Classic, but I haven't used them before.

Funny! I just did a bikini shoot two weeks ago. I used the 80 for full length shots and the 150 sonnar for torso shots on my Hasselblads. The 150 will not be as tightly framed (without a short extension tube) as the 180 from what I've heard. With some well considered cropping, I was able to get tighter without any appreciable quality loss.

I was in Oahu for a week a couple of years ago, and I wish I lived there. I was lucky to get a hotel a block from Waikiki beach. Caution the 9.5 hour flight from NYC. The Polynesian Cultural Center is great. You will visit many sites in the park, each with a different aspect of their culture. The fire dancing show at night is something not to be missed. There is also Haunama Bay-an extinct volcano breached by the ocean forming a protected cove. This is a very popular snorkeling site (equipment rentals were pretty cheap-unlike most everything else). There are many colorful species of fish there, but be careful of the sharp coral. Most hotels are very helpful with brochures of what is available. Ten days isn't too bad, just plan ahead well. Oh, the ABC stores are very good for all the basic necessities like beverages, some clothes, sun block, snacks, postcards, etc. There are so many of them they seem to be located every hundred feet on the main streets. Enjoy, it's the best vacation I've ever had.

Would anyone know if the Tower 9885 requires special trays for 2 1/4

as opposed to the regular 2x2 slides? I've heard this projector can

handle both. Otherwise, any information on the quality of the

Brumbergers? I was playing with the idea of trying to build a slide

holder for my old kodak 500 model A to use 6x6. Thanks for your

help.

Thanks for the help. Richert's instructions really helped. I was lucky that the shutter seemed okay, it was just the dried focusing grease. I had to pull the front and middle elements out at the same time, but I was able to separate them after an overnight soak in lighter fluid. Be careful not to damage any of the threads, the metal seems to be soft. Any recommendations for those tiny pinholes at the corners? Thanks for the help.

I just freed up a stuck focus for an Agfa Isolette II with the Agnar lens. It turns smoothly now. Can I use a hasselblad focusing screen to reset infinity? Do I have to turn it backwards? Thanks.

I've heard often that the best place to send equipment is Hasselblad USA in Fairfield New Jersey. In NYC, there's also Nippon Photo Clinic (Hasselblad authorized repair) at 920 Broadway #705 (212)982-3177. I've heard many good things about difficult repairs (like plaubel makinas) by them. My only experience with them so far was a simple flash shoe replacement which they estimated one week. Within a day and a half, it was finished and tested. They seem to be doing a lot of repair jobs and I think their prices are reasonable.

My apologies, that's Myers. Check out Medium Format Photography by Lief Ericksenn. There is a lot of great information in this book that helped confirm my interest in medium format. I started with a Rolleiflex 3.5E3 Planar which I still use.

I agree with David Meyers. I think using the right tool for the job is important. For my casual daily carry piece, it's either a Stylus Zoom, Canon S45 digital, or to mix things up, a folding 6x6 Zeiss Ikonta. My studio and location shooting is primarily a couple of Hasselblads for fashion and glamour-I'm able to make 20x24s that impress clients. Supplementing is a Canon 1D digital for those action shots. For fun on my personal time, it's a Toyo 45.

Try Q. Tuan Luong's largeformatphotography.info/ It has a lot of technical information such as dof calculators and spreadsheets on determining the plane of focus. It would probably add to the large amount of knowledge you already have from those books.

People I encounter usually recognize the Hasselblads when I'm using them. However, while searching for accessories in Olden Camera one afternoon, a film student asked how my movies come out with my Rolleiflex TLR.

I'm also enjoying my CF as with DK and Pete. Try and handle the camera at a store if possible. There are specs and pictures of the camera at toyoview.com

I've had mine for about six months and it still looks nearly new.

Hello. I have a Kodak 203 with a flash supermatic shutter with M &

F only. With the appropriate Paramount cord, it does not set off my

monolight. I heard that the resistor can be replaced with a wire in

order to have x-sync. Has anyone done this? If so, can someone

please give me a procedure on how to get to the resistor? Thanks

for your help.

As wayne had previously mentioned, you can get another quick release plate for the tripod head if it currently uses that system. My second one(hexagon)cost me only about 20 dollars. Alternatively, if your camera socket has the larger socket and your tripod head has the smaller screw, you can get the adapter that fits into your camera socket, about 4 bucks last time I needed one. Enjoy your 500 CM, I have one too as well as an EL/M.

I'm new to large format myself and I wanted to get into 4x5 for not a lot of money (after money spent on a couple of hasselblads). The Shen Hao and Tachihara seems to get good recommedations from people here (Shen Hao: more versatile-back movements, international back...you can see the movements available at the badger graphics site). I purchased a brand new toyo cf for a little over 400, so it was hard not to go for it as my first field camera. It is light and seems smooth. I just need a good lens now for landscapes. Good luck researching.

I handled one in the store and it seemed rough. The movements seemed sticky and overall not very rigid. It does not look like Shen Haos that I have seen on websites (badger graphics).